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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Question Need more power (HELP)

I have a 2010 RG with a few mods (SE Stage 1, V&H power duels and V&H pipes) and have never been happy with the bikes power. When I ride two up it feels like I'm on a turtle.

I've mod'd cars in the past and I was never really concerned about reliability but with a bike it's a different story! I want to add power but DO NOT want to sacrifice any reliability ..... at all!

I'm thinking about these options below for the top end. Nothing that would require boring the bottom end as I don't want to mess with anything more. The more you mess with stuff the more you open yourself up to potential issues down the road!


1) HD 103 kit with cams

2) Fuel Moto 107 kit with cams

3) SS 106 Kit with cams

With all three options I'm considering CNC heads, if that's worth doing?

I welcome input from those who've already traveled this road, so please don't be shy folks!

2010 110 FLTRX


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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 01:25 PM
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Save your money and don't get the heads. First of all just try out a good low end torque cam. Then if you still want some more power just go with any of the 3 big bore kits. The 103 is a good kit but if your bike does not have a warranty the bigger kits would give you more power then the 103. The right cam will make a big difference and a with the weight of the touring models and riding 2 up a low end torque cam will wake up your bike some.


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08 FLTR candy red sunglo,with 2015 103 HO, V&H Dresser Duals with Monster Rounds, Power Vision tuner, Willy Shiny Wheels and Forks and a bunch of other stuff.
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 02:16 PM
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You can see my build in my signature... I haven't had it on a dyno, but I can tell you that it pulls like a freakin freight train, and works perfectly for two up riding. It hasn't missed a beat since I did the build. I went with the 107 vice the 103 after asking an unbiased rider what he thought of his build. His response-if ya don't do it you will always wonder-what if? The difference in price is negligible. So, I would skip the heads, do the 107 whether from Fuel Moto or Frank Drago, and enjoy the ride.
I wouldn't worry to much about working the heads, not enough bang for the buck IMO. You can always do that later if you choose.

Rowdy




Ridin a two lane montser, feedin on one cage at a time ...
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 04:21 PM
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I'd definitely go 107 and have the heads worked to match the cam, put in a tuner get it tuned and your done. If you do a lot of 2up tell the guy doing your heads and select correct cam and comp for that cam. IMO if you have it apart why not do the heads they are the heart of the engine
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 05:29 PM
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Well, if you really want a reliable hot rod, sell your twin cam and get an Evo powered touring rig. There's entirely too many weak points in the newer TCs to feel "safe" once you kick up the power output.

Quickest fix for the turtle factor, re-gear the primary or final drive. You have to be prepared for a few hundred more RPM at cruise, but getting off the line will be noticeably improved.

That said, another vote for the 107". If you're going to go with a bigger bore, you will kick yourself later down the road for just going with the HD 103. One side benefit will be a reasonable bump in compression even if you stick with your stock heads.

Regarding the heads. Whatever you decide, match the heads, cam and compression or run the risk of great disappointment. You said CNC, that's a general statement, many places offer CNC exchange with different build goals, see above "match" comment. Harley sells it's own SE CNC heads if you're heavy into the HD koolaid... personally I would skip the SE option.

No matter what... be prepared to trade off some reliability. More power will run the risk of breaking stuff that is barely adequate in stock form.

2012 fltrx
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 05:41 PM
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best reliability:
103" kit (save $$,have your cylinders bored & matched to a quality piston kit)
S&S .583 cams
mild headwork featuring 1.900/1.575 valves
we do this build on a regular basis,VERY good low end torque thru about 5000 RPM,100+/110+ can be expected with stock like reliability/depenability
post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prodrag1320 View Post
best reliability:
103" kit (save $$,have your cylinders bored & matched to a quality piston kit)
S&S .583 cams
mild headwork featuring 1.900/1.575 valves
we do this build on a regular basis,VERY good low end torque thru about 5000 RPM,100+/110+ can be expected with stock like reliability/depenability
Very good point. I was too focused on the word "kit" and didn't think bore existing cylinders ...

2012 fltrx
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 07:05 PM
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as far as CNC & other "off the shelf" heads,CNC just means computer numaricly controled,and is better for doing 100 heads in the time it takes a hand porter to do 1 set,but if the original head digitized wasnt much good,the rest wont be either,and with"off the shelf" head its a total crap shoot weather your going to get headwork to fit your build,find a shop that will take into account your riding style,performance expectations for cam selection & degree of headwork
post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 08:25 PM
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With a good pipe and tune and a can take a Tman 555 or our Dragos new 560 stock 103 you can see 94/98 HP 107/110 Tq no head work. No boring cylinders all bolt in. And everything else will be a bonus.........
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 08:47 PM
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Where have you been hiding? Haven't seen you on here in a while. To give you some food for thought, I did a 107" and cams (no head work & 9.8.1 compression) last fall and in the 1000 miles since had the stock crank shift on me. I'm having the crank, trued, welded, balanced, and Timken bearing conversion done now. It destroyed my bored 107 jugs in the process so that cost for 107" is now double. Lesson learned for me. Not to say my issue is going to happen to everyone, but with the way HD makes the bottom ends now I wouldn't take the chance again personally. JMO

I intend to keep my bike a long time, but if I were ever to do a big bore kit and cams again I would spend an extra Grand and have the bottom end done right from the git go. If your looking for long term reliability do the crank too. It's only 6 more bolts to remove the bottom end from the bike.

2009 FLTR MOP
"A Goverment should fear it's people not vice versa"

Last edited by Hullhorr; 05-30-2013 at 08:50 PM.
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