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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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Corrected Valve Geometry

If you had the choice of Baisley Corrected Geometry Support Plates or the Woods Corrected Geometry support plates which one would you take? Why or why not? If neither, then which one would you use? Application is for a 117CI-124CI power house. Thoughts?
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 05:44 PM
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Either.

If I understand correctly (and that may be pushing the envelope a bit...lol) these plates will help center the pushrod in the center of the pushrod tube to prevent rubbing. But to truly "correct the geometry" requires more than this, it requires setting valve protrusion, spring height, and probably several other "buzzwords" even I couldn't explain.

Baisley explains it better on his site but it involves setting up the valvetrain so that at mid-lift of the cam the rocker is at 90 degrees to the valve stem. This reduces side-loading of the valve (longer life of the guides I would think). Obviously Baisley can do it but there are several good head porters that are capable of this process (WFO Larry and Don Dorfman at Dewey's are the first two that come to mind).
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtnot View Post
Either.

If I understand correctly (and that may be pushing the envelope a bit...lol) these plates will help center the pushrod in the center of the pushrod tube to prevent rubbing. But to truly "correct the geometry" requires more than this, it requires setting valve protrusion, spring height, and probably several other "buzzwords" even I couldn't explain.

Baisley explains it better on his site but it involves setting up the valvetrain so that at mid-lift of the cam the rocker is at 90 degrees to the valve stem. This reduces side-loading of the valve (longer life of the guides I would think). Obviously Baisley can do it but there are several good head porters that are capable of this process (WFO Larry and Don Dorfman at Dewey's are the first two that come to mind).

John @ Torque Inc is another head porter that would be a choice to consider


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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 11:28 PM
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Then there is the answer that you possibly dont really need this at all. If it was such a problem/concern wouldnt S&S, Jim's etc have already addressed it. When I have bought my S&S motor they recommended the HD plate. /shrug

Might want to add to the poll to not need one.



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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-06-2013, 06:29 AM
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Unbalanced took the words out of my mouth.
We have used Del West valve blanks, machining to the dedicated lengths etc, with lash caps to set up various engines over the years, but for a street engine? No.
Scott

Last edited by Hillsidecycle.com; 06-06-2013 at 06:32 AM.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-06-2013, 07:57 AM
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with 99% of street motors theres no reason to worry about it,when your getting into the .675+lift area is when it starts coming into play.our gas drag bikes where running close to .900 lift cams & correcting geomitry was a big part of motor set up
post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-06-2013, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by prodrag1320 View Post
with 99% of street motors theres no reason to worry about it,when your getting into the .675+lift area is when it starts coming into play.our gas drag bikes where running close to .900 lift cams & correcting geomitry was a big part of motor set up
Thank You for actually answering that.
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