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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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Question 124 owners

Those who have done 124's, either S&S crate or had your case bored out.
Would you do it again?
Why did you go with the crate vs boring out your case?
Anyone get the crate and replace the cam chest because of cam options?

I'm curious... Need some direction on pros/cons of each. The cost difference seems to be ~2k, which I'd consider a wash because I'd have the existing engine.

Just seems the better way to go is to bore out existing case, and get a high end crank, which is not what I had thought.

This will be 100% NA engine.

2011 RGU Vivid Black <-- FOR SALE | T-Man 555c | T-Max | HD Heavy Breather | Dragos S/C/S True Duals | Rinehart 3.5" w/Turndowns
2016 RG Special Black Quartz | S&S 124 | yaddy yada...
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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This will be on a TC, not an M8

2011 RGU Vivid Black <-- FOR SALE | T-Man 555c | T-Max | HD Heavy Breather | Dragos S/C/S True Duals | Rinehart 3.5" w/Turndowns
2016 RG Special Black Quartz | S&S 124 | yaddy yada...
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 04:17 PM
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S&S crate has a S&S crank , no better choice there , and you can get the LC version which is more street friendly .. Advantage to your cases is you retain your VIN ... Either way if you sell or trade , it's a wash cause you will not get your money back .. Ask Ken (Glide69) he had a SS 124 crate and got hammered on the trade ..

I would go with the SS124 crate and be done with it ..
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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I should have added... I'm planning on doing some headwork, throttle bdy, larger injectors, and different pistons than what the S&S LC (585 cam) comes with if I go that route, so I do have some cost increase.

However, after talking to a well known builder, I'm now thinking of having my engine reworked and going with a stronger (stronger than the S&S) crank and 657 cam. One of the reasons for the stronger crank is I'd like to get rid of the compensator and not have to worry about it

2011 RGU Vivid Black <-- FOR SALE | T-Man 555c | T-Max | HD Heavy Breather | Dragos S/C/S True Duals | Rinehart 3.5" w/Turndowns
2016 RG Special Black Quartz | S&S 124 | yaddy yada...
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 05:04 PM
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full tuned S&S Crate 124 in a Fat boy with a D&D 2-1 pipe

SOB cranks, fun as hell to ride, I would and will do a S&S crate again, in a couple years the RGS might have the 143 in it
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by JacktheBagger View Post
S&S crate has a S&S crank , no better choice there , and you can get the LC version which is more street friendly .. Advantage to your cases is you retain your VIN ... Either way if you sell or trade , it's a wash cause you will not get your money back .. Ask Ken (Glide69) he had a SS 124 crate and got hammered on the trade ..



I would go with the SS124 crate and be done with it ..


I totally disagree with this response sorry but I own several 124’s both off screaming eagle cases old and new T2 cases.

1st you void the warranty on a t2 case if you do internal passages, 2nd the gnurled timkens move and can’t be pinned (ruins the motor and crank), 3rd you get 2mm rings and many have oiling issues, 4th you have to carry around an MSO for the cops if they check, 5th you get the crappy X wedge gear set in the cam cover, sure you can change it but will cost you a lot more to go to old style cam chest.

If you build your own using your cases you have, there is a fault and that can be clamping force (cylinder weeping on the bottom) but using copper seal on the base baskets you can minimize this. You can get a blue pump and plate, or other, premium lifters, and 3mm rings / pistons, you can then choose the heads you want as well b2, MVA, B3, 103, CVO 110 etc.

You can also put in a pinned timken or go with 2 left bearings.

Recommend S&S crank or the P3R Crank, Drago 3 MM ring turbo pistons 0 deck 2.5 piston to wall, S&S cylinders, if MVA heads go with 2.150 valves and clean up and .035 headgaskets with 640 cam (quiet) and depending where you live ride 88-90 cc chambers with a good 2-1 pipe like Drago or Borzilla with a quiet baffle, 58 or 62 mm throttle body with 6.22 injectors, and if no lowers the heavy breather. Don’t forget a clutch upgrade this should put you around the 140’s or better.

If you decide to do a 124 LC with the 585 I would still do it off your cases the only change would be the pistons, there is about 10 of them in the group we ride with and it is a great motor combo, just be sure to keep the compression around 10.25 so you can avoid having to detune the timing and put up with pinging (PMS). Most of the bikes are in the 135-140 torque and 118-124 hp range.

If you are going to do headwork, recommend John Sachs for the job - has done all my work for years and many of the CVO guys heads and delivers on the power.

Best of luck on your build hope it turns out the way you want



-Unbalanced



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Last edited by unbalanced; 10-11-2018 at 01:28 AM.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-10-2018, 09:19 PM
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S&S 124LC is what I would do. IF I had the dough. Jmo

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-11-2018, 12:22 AM
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I have had a crate S&S 124HC in my 12 RG for around 40000 miles and absolutely love it! No down side at all (other than the cost of course) and runs amazing at all speeds and RPM's.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-11-2018, 10:20 AM
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I had a S&S 124 HC crate motor (640) cams,
66mm TB the numbers where mid 130's HP and TQ out of the crate.. I ran a solid sprocket (no comp) and ran the bike hard and put her away wet for 30k with no issues.. The only thing is the high compression motor uses oil... And of course the trade in factor.. Harley won't resell a bike and warranty it with a S&S motor they wholesale it so you get shit for it from them.. Would I do it again?? I will have to see when the time comes and see what S&S has available for a M8 124 crate motor...


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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-11-2018, 10:56 AM
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The S&S motor has more bore and less stroke. That gives you more skirt area, less piston velocity, better rod angle, and less ring wear. Aside from that, it's made from better stuff.


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