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Old 11-28-2018, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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STAGE 3 Upgrade

So here is a short history, I had a 2010 Fat Boy which I built for show and enjoyed it for 8 years, traded it in for a 2016 Road Glide Ultra for more riding with very very low mileage. I put 700 miles on the Road Glide in 3 weeks. It is such an amazing bike to ride.

My Road Glide has a Stage 1 (which I did the day I picked it up) and it does great, moves really well. I am contemplating doing a Stage 3. Would truly enjoy hearing back from people that have a Stage 3 on theirs and the pros and cons so I can make an informed decision.

The Stage 3 I am thinking about brings the Displacement up to 110 CI. for more cruising power.

Thanks
Rob
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Old 11-28-2018, 01:31 PM
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So here is a short history, I had a 2010 Fat Boy which I built for show and enjoyed it for 8 years, traded it in for a 2016 Road Glide Ultra for more riding with very very low mileage. I put 700 miles on the Road Glide in 3 weeks. It is such an amazing bike to ride.

My Road Glide has a Stage 1 (which I did the day I picked it up) and it does great, moves really well. I am contemplating doing a Stage 3. Would truly enjoy hearing back from people that have a Stage 3 on theirs and the pros and cons so I can make an informed decision.

The Stage 3 I am thinking about brings the Displacement up to 110 CI. for more cruising power.

Thanks
Rob
For the money, I wouldn't bother with going to a 110". I would just research some cam options and just change to one that puts the power in the RPM range you want for your riding style and do the Cometic .030 head gasket to bump up the compression a little. You will have more money in your wallet and will have a bigger smile on your face than going with the Stage III 110" kit. To get the 110" to really be what you want you will have to do a lot more to it and spend a lot more money.
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Old 11-28-2018, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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For the money, I wouldn't bother with going to a 110". I would just research some cam options and just change to one that puts the power in the RPM range you want for your riding style and do the Cometic .030 head gasket to bump up the compression a little. You will have more money in your wallet and will have a bigger smile on your face than going with the Stage III 110" kit. To get the 110" to really be what you want you will have to do a lot more to it and spend a lot more money.
This is the lesser costly option the dealer and I spoke about today. (I'm not gonna turn my own wrench on this one) The kit is about half the cost... This suggestion gives the power in the lower gears and lower rpm, where as the Higher displacement gives the HP & TQ in the higher gears and rpm more for highway running.

This is where I get torn between the two options.

Interestingly enough BOTH option give about 20 Addtl Pounds of TQ in their band and a nice bump in HP across the entire power bond.
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Old 11-28-2018, 06:54 PM
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i went to a 113 on a 94 Heritage and was really happy until i got my present bike.
don't get me wrong, the 113 is a lot of fun and can get me in trouble real quick, but it ain't no touring engine.
RGKen has a valid point about compression...

the best advice i can give is to do a lot of homework and research all your options.

fuel moto has a lot of dyno charts showing different combinations with real world experience.
the dealer doesn't have the same tuning options (read EPA) you can get with an indy.
https://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-33193-dyno-charts.html

just my 2¢
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Old 11-28-2018, 07:19 PM
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This is the lesser costly option the dealer and I spoke about today. (I'm not gonna turn my own wrench on this one) The kit is about half the cost... This suggestion gives the power in the lower gears and lower rpm, where as the Higher displacement gives the HP & TQ in the higher gears and rpm more for highway running.

This is where I get torn between the two options.

Interestingly enough BOTH option give about 20 Addtl Pounds of TQ in their band and a nice bump in HP across the entire power bond.
With the right cam, .030 head gasket to raise the compression, and a good tune. The 103 will pull away from the 110". I've done it. Even just a good cam you can pull away from a CVO with a 110".
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Old 11-28-2018, 07:23 PM
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the dealer doesn't have the same tuning options (read EPA) you can get with an indy.
https://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-33193-dyno-charts.html

just my 2¢
The dealerships are only EPA restricted with the M8 engines. They are not restricted on the TC engines.

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Old 11-28-2018, 07:58 PM
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Yes what these guys said ^^^^^^

Lots of options but the right cam can make you smile

Lots of good motor and cam info in the motor section. Lots of good a/m cams out there to pick from.

What tuner are you using?


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Old 11-28-2018, 09:27 PM
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The dealerships are only EPA restricted with the M8 engines. They are not restricted on the TC engines.
but they aren't allowed to install tuners that don't meet those restrictions. are they?
don't they have to buy back/confiscate all the old SE tuners???

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Old 11-29-2018, 07:43 AM
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but they aren't allowed to install tuners that don't meet those restrictions. are they?
don't they have to buy back/confiscate all the old SE tuners???
That is all a myth or if it was in place it no longer is. I've had numerous conversations with the performance guy at the local dealership and they are mainly using the TTS tuner for their twin cam builds. He said when my warranty is up on my M8 that I can go the same route if I want and the ESP would still take over. The ESP doesn't have the EPA restrictions like the MoCo does.
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Old 11-30-2018, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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Yes what these guys said ^^^^^^

Lots of options but the right cam can make you smile

Lots of good motor and cam info in the motor section. Lots of good a/m cams out there to pick from.

What tuner are you using?
The Harley Screamin Eagle Tuner.

On my other bike I used a Fuelpak (V & H) and had issues with running rich and blackening exhaust very badly - so I had HD reflash to stock and got a new Fuelpak from V & H, the first one was defective, which then was fine. But left me very skiddish as a result.
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