Remove the headlights.
Hang the fairing without the headlights. Watch your cables and connectors, make sure they are available thru the headlight holes.
Take the headlights out of the mount. 4 phillips head screws per headlight. With Daymakers, they matter which side they go in. Note the rubber bushing on on each one, that goes towards the center when you put them back.
Now, finish mounting the fairing, complete with turn signals and top screws. Remember, the longer top screw goes in the bottom hole by the glove box.
Once you have the fairing mounted, time to put in the headlights. Start with the mounting frame, sans lights. This is where you may find an issue. With all the additional wiring, you might have blocked the adjustment screws from getting all the way thru to the holes in the inner fairing. They are the bottom two screws, and may be longer that before. They stick out in back of the inner fairing now. That makes it much easier to adjust the headlights. If you have a blockage, and it is just a matter of moving wire bundles, good. If not, you may have mounted the amp over the holes, or something like that. If you did, take the fairing back off, remove the blockage and start over.
Once you have the frame mounted, you can put the headlights back in. Pay attention to the rubber bushing on the lights, that goes into the new bracket you mounted on the fairing. Once you have the lights in, test them. Don't forget to test the ACC position on the key switch, that should light the Logo's in the Daymakers.
If everything is working, mount the bezel, stand back, have a beer (eh?) and enjoy your work.
Now that you know how to get just the headlights in and out, you can use that knowledge to take them in and out to get some access behind the fairing. This is useful when you replace your gauge lights with LED's ;-) Depending on how much room you have, how big your hands are, and what you've added, you should be able to reach the gauges from the headlight holes.