Problem with 2016 ignition lock - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Problem with 2016 ignition lock

A week ago I pulled my ignition lock off to add the parts for the accessory power distribution panel, oly to fing I did not have the parts I needed.

Last night I apparently switched it to the right without thinking. This morning when I turned it “on”, nothing happened. The switch housing was pushed in and I could not get the bike to come online. I finally managed to pull the knob out and got power to the ignition circuit.

Any ideas on how to “fix” this????

I’m not locking the fork to avoid a stranded situation. To compound things, I got the remainder of the parts to bring the accessories online and will have to pull it again.

Thanks in advance!

Bryan
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 04:49 PM
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Mine did the exact same thing last year. Was parked in a garage forks locked and up against a wall. I was screwed. I managed to watch a YouTube video on how to re-install the lock and managed to get it all unlocked and started. Took it to the Harley shop that day. They messed with it and could not get it to replicate the issue. Said they think my "horse collar" around the ignition came loose enough that it depressed the little button on the bottom of the ignition switch causing it to come out. Knock on wood it's been fine since but I am sill a little paranoid it's going to happen again.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 05:32 PM
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Get a 10" piece of 1/4" copper tubing, flatten one end about 4"s long, bend the round part a little above that to make a handle at 90 degrees. Make sure the flatten part will slip into where the lock came out. You might have to tap it with a hammer so the width will fit. Slide it in past each tumbler until you have all three lined up. You should be able to turn it then to start it etc. now turn it into the lock position and put your key lock back in, making sure to put the key in, hold the button underneath and turn the key all the way left as far as you can. Now drop it in, push down and turn the key to the right, only the key. That will set it up and releases the button and now you should be good to go.


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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 04:20 AM
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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Get a 10" piece of 1/4" copper tubing, flatten one end about 4"s long, ....
Excellent suggestion! The "special tool" can cost upward of $70! Installed the Accessory power system this weekend and still had a problem with the lock, I was test fitting it without the horse collar and it locked up tight. Work about 20 minutes of fiddling to get it off.

- Bryan
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 11:44 PM
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On my 2010 I can fiddle with it for 5 minutes and get it back straight, on the 2017, major headache, 1/2 hour and still not right. I broke down and bought a tool for $39 on eBay, makes life so much easier. I know since the bike is new, the ignition will be coming off a few more times. Also be advised the "Rushmore's " ignition uses a different tool than 13 down.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-02-2017, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by dbell66253 View Post
On my 2010 I can fiddle with it for 5 minutes and get it back straight, on the 2017, major headache, 1/2 hour and still not right. I broke down and bought a tool for $39 on eBay, makes life so much easier. I know since the bike is new, the ignition will be coming off a few more times. Also be advised the "Rushmore's " ignition uses a different tool than 13 down.
That is correct but it is still an alignment issue with the tumblers that causes the problem. Line them back up and everything will be fine.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-02-2017, 09:58 AM
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On my 2010 I can fiddle with it for 5 minutes and get it back straight, on the 2017, major headache, 1/2 hour and still not right. I broke down and bought a tool for $39 on eBay, makes life so much easier. I know since the bike is new, the ignition will be coming off a few more times. Also be advised the "Rushmore's " ignition uses a different tool than 13 down.
That is correct but it is still an alignment issue with the tumblers that causes the problem. Line them back up and everything will be fine.
I agree with you, just that the same screwdriver I use for my 10 won't fit the 17, and I couldn't find anything else at the time, lol. $39 won't kill me, I think it was worth it, since I've used it a couple of times already and plan to change my bars again before SW7.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-02-2017, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by dbell66253 View Post
On my 2010 I can fiddle with it for 5 minutes and get it back straight, on the 2017, major headache, 1/2 hour and still not right. I broke down and bought a tool for $39 on eBay, makes life so much easier. I know since the bike is new, the ignition will be coming off a few more times. Also be advised the "Rushmore's " ignition uses a different tool than 13 down.
What's different ? Any pics ?

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-02-2017, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by dbell66253 View Post
On my 2010 I can fiddle with it for 5 minutes and get it back straight, on the 2017, major headache, 1/2 hour and still not right. I broke down and bought a tool for $39 on eBay, makes life so much easier. I know since the bike is new, the ignition will be coming off a few more times. Also be advised the "Rushmore's " ignition uses a different tool than 13 down.
What's different ? Any pics ?
I don't know if you can see the difference in the picture, but the left tool is for 13 down, it's actually thicker than the tool on the right for 14 up.
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