If you want to avoid future paint defects from your chaps, clear film is your best option. With the improvements made recently with the film, and a good installer, they look really good.
Before the film gets installed the paint should be defect free. This is where caution should be used.
Factory clear coat is about as thick as a Post-it. Thats all you have period! Always Always use the least aggressive method possible.
If you can get the defects out with a polish, no need to use a compound. If you can get the defects out with a compound, why would you wet sand it? Preserve the clear coat is priority #1 when doing paint correction. Google clear coat failure, ugly.
I do 20-30 vehicles and bikes a year and I will not wet sand, to much liability. If I can't get a defect out with my strongest compound and pads, then I will let the customer know the situation. No "Daily Driver" should be wet sanded because its probably going to get screwed up again and you want enough clear coat for future polishing. Show cars, different story.
Tuesday I did a $50,000 truck. It had a few defects that Menzerna FG400 couldn't get 100%. Discussed it with the owner and he agreed that it was fine, preserve the clear coat!! He just bought a new BMW 5 series twin turbo, I will be coating that one also.
The info I provided is what most detailers that do it for a living follow. Can wet sanding on factory paint be done, sure. Is it worth sacrificing the amount of clear coat you will take off?? In the end its your call
2009 Road Glide. 16 in Vindikta Wild Cats. Aquatic AV, Stinger 700X4 to MMats PA 601, Audiopipe horns.
Ground Zero 7X10 in the lids w/ sspn.4 1000d, tuned with DD Audio DSI-2. S&S 106, lifters, push rods and AC. Drago 2. CycleRama 575. Progressive monotones -1in. 12in. HD adjustable rear shocks. Painted inner fairing. Tuned with TTS. Blacked out!