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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-27-2017, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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Tank Bras

Does anyone know of other manufacturers who make tank bras for a 2015 FLTRXS besides Harley? I don't mind buying a Harley bra, but would like to have a few options. My tank is getting scuffed where my chaps rub against it right by the seat on both sides. I guess that's part of being a 6'6" rider... Thanks!!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-27-2017, 08:28 PM
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I bet they can be wet and dry sanded and buffed out.

If you have the correct products and you know what your doing, most paint can be brought back to look good again.

Research You Tube.

Don't have any info on a Tank bra, sorry.

I say don't give up on your paint just yet.

My bike has over 50,000+ miles and my paint looks really good still.



It's all in the way you take care of your paint.

Good luck either way.

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Last edited by Swomack; 07-27-2017 at 08:35 PM.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-27-2017, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flounderfe View Post
Does anyone know of other manufacturers who make tank bras for a 2015 FLTRXS besides Harley? I don't mind buying a Harley bra, but would like to have a few options. My tank is getting scuffed where my chaps rub against it right by the seat on both sides. I guess that's part of being a 6'6" rider... Thanks!!
I went to a shop that installs clear bras. They had the patterns for the RG. They also had the pattern for the tank back at the saddle.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-28-2017, 08:39 AM
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Tank Bras

I had one on my 06 Glide. When I went to take it off to clean under it after about a couple of months it had a line where the front of the bra had rubbed the tank and an off color under the rest of the bra on the tank. I was able to get it all buffed out, but will never do that again. Like another post stated, check out the clear coverings one can get.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-28-2017, 09:30 AM
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I would avoid the leather tank bras like Harley sells. The opening in them allows road dirt, sand, etc., to get underneath it and can scratch the the tank.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-28-2017, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by MisterEd View Post
I went to a shop that installs clear bras. They had the patterns for the RG. They also had the pattern for the tank back at the saddle.
Could you share the name of the company? Thanks.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-28-2017, 10:28 AM
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If you want to avoid future paint defects from your chaps, clear film is your best option. With the improvements made recently with the film, and a good installer, they look really good.
Before the film gets installed the paint should be defect free. This is where caution should be used.

Factory clear coat is about as thick as a Post-it. Thats all you have period! Always Always use the least aggressive method possible.
If you can get the defects out with a polish, no need to use a compound. If you can get the defects out with a compound, why would you wet sand it? Preserve the clear coat is priority #1 when doing paint correction. Google clear coat failure, ugly.

I do 20-30 vehicles and bikes a year and I will not wet sand, to much liability. If I can't get a defect out with my strongest compound and pads, then I will let the customer know the situation. No "Daily Driver" should be wet sanded because its probably going to get screwed up again and you want enough clear coat for future polishing. Show cars, different story.

Tuesday I did a $50,000 truck. It had a few defects that Menzerna FG400 couldn't get 100%. Discussed it with the owner and he agreed that it was fine, preserve the clear coat!! He just bought a new BMW 5 series twin turbo, I will be coating that one also.

The info I provided is what most detailers that do it for a living follow. Can wet sanding on factory paint be done, sure. Is it worth sacrificing the amount of clear coat you will take off?? In the end its your call

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-28-2017, 10:28 AM
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I'm 6'3 and I have the same chap rub on the rear of my tank. I have tried Meguiars SwirlX but it will not take out the hazing. I ordered a Road Glide kit from Tankslapper and attempted to put it on yesterday. It looks like absolute shit. I followed their directions to a T and took my time, but there are bubbles and scuffs all over it and a bunch of the material is bunched up (from being stretched) towards the underside and saddle of the tank. I did one side and stopped. I will contact the company today to see what they have to say, but will probably just rip it off and be out $40.

I need to find something to protect that area in the future and get rid of that chap rub I have now.


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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-28-2017, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by macabra11 View Post
I'm 6'3 and I have the same chap rub on the rear of my tank. I have tried Meguiars SwirlX but it will not take out the hazing. I ordered a Road Glide kit from Tankslapper and attempted to put it on yesterday. It looks like absolute shit. I followed their directions to a T and took my time, but there are bubbles and scuffs all over it and a bunch of the material is bunched up (from being stretched) towards the underside and saddle of the tank. I did one side and stopped. I will contact the company today to see what they have to say, but will probably just rip it off and be out $40.

I need to find something to protect that area in the future and get rid of that chap rub I have now.
Installing the film is a art to make it look good. Any local installers? Maybe contact them and see what they charge to do it. Sometimes its worth it to pay someone to do it

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Ground Zero 7X10 in the lids w/ sspn.4 1000d, tuned with DD Audio DSI-2. S&S 106, lifters, push rods and AC. Drago 2. CycleRama 575. Progressive monotones -1in. 12in. HD adjustable rear shocks. Painted inner fairing. Tuned with TTS. Blacked out!
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-28-2017, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by phillyfan1 View Post
If you want to avoid future paint defects from your chaps, clear film is your best option. With the improvements made recently with the film, and a good installer, they look really good.
Before the film gets installed the paint should be defect free. This is where caution should be used.

Factory clear coat is about as thick as a Post-it. Thats all you have period! Always Always use the least aggressive method possible.
If you can get the defects out with a polish, no need to use a compound. If you can get the defects out with a compound, why would you wet sand it? Preserve the clear coat is priority #1 when doing paint correction. Google clear coat failure, ugly.

I do 20-30 vehicles and bikes a year and I will not wet sand, to much liability. If I can't get a defect out with my strongest compound and pads, then I will let the customer know the situation. No "Daily Driver" should be wet sanded because its probably going to get screwed up again and you want enough clear coat for future polishing. Show cars, different story.

Tuesday I did a $50,000 truck. It had a few defects that Menzerna FG400 couldn't get 100%. Discussed it with the owner and he agreed that it was fine, preserve the clear coat!! He just bought a new BMW 5 series twin turbo, I will be coating that one also.

The info I provided is what most detailers that do it for a living follow. Can wet sanding on factory paint be done, sure. Is it worth sacrificing the amount of clear coat you will take off?? In the end its your call
Is this stuff any good for taking out the slight jean scuff? Thanks.

https://www.harley-davidson.com/stor...--swirl-repair

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