Changed front tire now no front brake??? - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-21-2014, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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Changed front tire now no front brake???

Well I changed my front tire just like I did all the other times. Take the calipers off by just taking off the 2 bolts that hold it to the front forks. Put new tire on rim and slide the calipers back on. I did not loosen any of the hoses or bolts that hold the calipers together. Put it all back together. Pull the hand lever a couple of times before I move the bike. Had a good brake. Went for ride and the first pull of the lever it comes real close to hand grip I would say about 1 inch. Let go of lever and pull again this time brake is getting better. Like you would pump the lever and brake comes back. Go down the road a mile or so and the same thing with the brake lever.. The pads look good and there is enough brake fluid in master cylinder... The only thing I could think of is some how it got some air in the lines. Looked at lines and they are not leaking... Have 26,000 on 2013 road glide..

I am open for suggestions???? Must get it working before SW.....

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 02:42 AM
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May have a stuck piston.

1. Pull the calipers again, one at a time.
2. Leave the brake pads on one side, and clamp that side with a C clamp
3. Slowly, and carefully pump the lever, both caliper pistons on the unclamped side should come out equally.
4. Go easy, if you pump them out too far, you'll have to pull the calipers, insert the pistons, reassemble and bleed. Not fun...
5. Get a shoe string and some brake cleaner, and clean the pistons and seals.
6. Repeat 3 more times for the remaining pistons.

If it's been sticking for awhile, you'll see uneven pad wear. No guarantee it's there, but if it is, that's the problem...

Good Luck!

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 08:38 AM
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could also be that when you had the front wheel off, you bent the rotor. a bent rotor will push the pistons back in the caliper further than they need to be. then when you hit the brake, it will take an additional pull to get the pads to clamp on the rotor.

feels pretty much the same as if you had air in the lines.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 10:30 AM
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pretty much what FLTRI said BUTT you must have the resivour open!! to have the pistons to retract flush with the caliper! excercise the pistons with small wrench or shim between the pads. With front wheel off ground spin the tire to hear (or not the rotor/shoe sound should be very,very Little to none),and you can do calibers one on one off the rotor to see which one is possibliy sticking, replace fluid/bleed and bench test to grip pressure. Best to have a helper, good luck
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reds4 View Post
pretty much what FLTRI said BUTT you must have the resivour open!! to have the pistons to retract flush with the caliper! excercise the pistons with small wrench or shim between the pads. With front wheel off ground spin the tire to hear (or not the rotor/shoe sound should be very,very Little to none),and you can do calibers one on one off the rotor to see which one is possibliy sticking, replace fluid/bleed and bench test to grip pressure. Best to have a helper, good luck
You can push the pistons in on the brake calipers WITHOUT removing the brake reservoir cap. Leave the cap on the reservoir and do not loosen it at all it won't hurt a thing and the pistons push in fine.
I never loosen or take the cap off the reservoirs when pushing in the pistons on the calipers and never had a problem. The only reason to remove the cap is to do a brake fluid flush or a brake bleed.
If you think you have air (it maybe water in the brake fluid too) in the line in the front just do a gravity bleed. Remove the reservoir cap and then loosen 1 bleeder screw and let the brake fluid drip out making sure the reservoir doesn't run out of brake fluid, let the fluid drip for a while then tighten up the bleeder and open the other bleeder, let it drip for a while and close it up. This will flush out the old fluid and you will have fresh brake fluid in the system, doing this will eliminate any air or water in the brake system.


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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 11:13 AM
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Just did mine Mark and could not pry the pads back to piston flush till I removed the cap. Once did excersed with a few lever pumps against a wedge between the pads and repeat, spray cleaned of course and replaced fluid wiping the res clean, prefect lever and tire spins free. Sometime just disturding the caliper or low fluid cause that 1/8" piston protrusion.
Then I also believe in manual pressure bleed

Last edited by reds4; 07-22-2014 at 11:15 AM.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 11:41 AM
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Gravity bleed/flush work for me on my bike and my truck. We all have our ways to do things and if it works we stick with it.


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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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will work on it tomarrow

thanks guys for some suggestions. I will be working on it on Wednesday. will keep you posted.

thanks
Roy

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-24-2014, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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took to dealer

Well I monkeyed around with it some but did not get any improvement. So I took it to dealer today and they found that the rotors were warpped.. Was taken care of under warranty.

Whhoo

ready to go to SW!!!!!

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-24-2014, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skratch View Post
could also be that when you had the front wheel off, you bent the rotor. a bent rotor will push the pistons back in the caliper further than they need to be. then when you hit the brake, it will take an additional pull to get the pads to clamp on the rotor.

feels pretty much the same as if you had air in the lines.
Good call!!!

Bob
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