Clutch-Pack Adjustment Advice - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-21-2015, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
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Clutch-Pack Adjustment Advice

I adjusted the clutch-pack in accordance with the TM's instructions. The clutch is catching pretty far out in the release of the lever. trying to find out if this means I backed the adjustment screw out too far or not far enough before tightening down the jam nut.

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-21-2015, 08:37 AM
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well here is how I do it ..

back the adjusters off on the cable to get lots of slack at the lever

back the clutch pack allen bolt out then turn in to lightly bottom , then the book says a half to a full turn out , I always do a half turn out . Then lock the jam nut .. I pull the clutch a couple times to set the ball and ramp . Then I adjust the cable to 1/16 to 1/8" off the bracket ..

Cold adjustment , not right after a ride

JtB

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-21-2015, 10:38 AM
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I do my clutch adjustment the same as Jack but I back my allen screw out 3/4 of a turn.
Most of your clutch handle adjustment should be done with the clutch cable not in the allen screw in the primary.


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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-21-2015, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by JacktheBagger View Post
well here is how I do it ..

back the adjusters off on the cable to get lots of slack at the lever

back the clutch pack allen bolt out then turn in to lightly bottom , then the book says a half to a full turn out , I always do a half turn out . Then lock the jam nut .. I pull the clutch a couple times to set the ball and ramp . Then I adjust the cable to 1/16 to 1/8" off the bracket ..

Cold adjustment , not right after a ride

JtB
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-31-2015, 01:45 PM
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So I have the same issue on my 2009 Dyna fat bob. I adjusted it the way perscribed and it releases almost all the way out. If the screw is adjusted to 3/4 to 1 turn will the release be sooner, the clutch lever closer to the grip?
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-31-2015, 07:43 PM
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this is how I adjust mine
People have had good success with these:

First, make sure the bike is cold. Adjusting a worm or hot clutch casues problems:

1) Induce maximum slack in the cable by loosening the jam nut then the adjusting nut inside the rubber boot on the cable.

2) If you need to lube the cable, remove the cable end from the lever by removing the snap ring, and pushing the retaining pin up through the lever bracket.

3) Remove the clutch inspection cover, using a “star pattern” on the five retaining bolts. Note which hole on the cover is to the top and replace it the same way (the cover eventually takes the shape of the primary cover, so this prevents leaks).

4) Loosen the 11/16” nut in the center of the clutch.

5) Using an Allen wrench, loosen the clutch adjusting screw, which is the center of the threaded rod inside the nut.

6) This is the critical step. Holding the Allen wrench between your thumb and forefinger, and tighten it (turn it clockwise) just to the point that resistance is felt. From that point, turn it counterclockwise ½ to 1 turn (1/2 for most riders is good, ¾ if you use the clutch a lot for control at low speeds, a full turn I use only for police bikes).

7) Making sure to hold the Allen wrench at that position, tighten the clutch nut. If you have a crow’s foot, you can torque it to spec, which –12 ft-lbs. – if not just get it good and snug. An offset wrench is best, but you can use a regular open end wrench. However, if you do, be careful not to let it slip off the nut, since it will be at an angle to clear the primary cover.

8) Replace the clutch cover, and gasket, tightening in a star pattern to the right torque (84-108 inch/pounds or 10 n/m).

9) If you removed the cable end from the lever replace it, and tighten the cable. Squeeze the lever three times to re-set the ball and ramp mechanism in the release. Then fine tune your cable adjustment, so the free-play is correct. (The edge of a nickel should fit between the shoulder of the ferrule and the bracket.

and from the person who gave me those instructions
Increasing fom 1/2 to 3/4 lengthens the "gray area" of the clutch, so you can more precisely modulate the application of power to the rear wheel, using the clutch. If you tend to use your clutch as an either in or out proposition, you won't notice a difference. It's only helpful when using the clutch to make low speed manuevers.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-02-2015, 04:27 PM
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If the clutch engages too far out (or too fast) on the clutch lever, you need to adjust at the clutch pack. The clutch cable is basically for minor adjustment and the clutch pack is for major adjustment. When it's too far off, you'll never fix it with just the clutch cable.

As for the actual adjustment, I do as JTB stated. I like my clutch tight, but not to the point of feeling engaged at all times. If you like it a little looser, go more toward 3/4 turn out.

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