2010 FLTRX Acting Like Out of Gas - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-15-2016, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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2010 FLTRX Acting Like Out of Gas

Greetings
So yesterday Trixie was running fine, except for a mild hesitation coming of the line at a few intersections. That didn't really stick out as I've got the idle set (with SEPST) to 800RPMs...so it can happen.

But...

Last night I went out (or tried to) for cigarettes, and she fell flat on her face coming out of the driveway. Bucking, spitting, throttle was barely responsive.. She acted like she was out of gas...even though the tank is almost half full.

Problem persisted this morning when bike was completely cold:
  • It starts a bit reluctantly, but ok.
  • It will rev sitting still...but is somewhat sluggish.
  • Trying to take off it has no power, and immediately starts acting like it is running out of gas.
  • No engine light, and the only DTC is P0562 (low battery) that is several months old.

In the last couple of weeks I have noticed that the fuel pump has gotten a bit louder. It originally was a soft hum, now it's a bit ragged sounding ... Not real loud...but noticeable.

Now I've been wrenching my own ride since my teens, but I'm a bit new to this EFI stuff (last bike was an 87 FLHTP). And since HD stands for Hundred Dollars...I thought I'd run my hypothesis past you folks to see if it made any since to anyone else that might be a bit more familiar with this critter. Meanwhile my - project bike - 1981 Shovelhead FLTC named Alice just became my primary mount.

So... Looks like a duck, walks like a duck, quacks like a duck ... Sure it could be an Ostrich, But... I'm thinking the fuel pump is taking - or has taken - a shit ... Make sense to anyone else??

Thank you,

Stoic Joker

Scarlet Red 2010 Road Glide Custom named Trixie - She's a flashy little minx..
Basic black 1981 Tour Glide Classic named Alice - She's a sleeper project.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-15-2016, 06:50 PM
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Your diagnosis is correct. Had the same problem. You can get a fuel pump on Amazon for under $50.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-15-2016, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoic Joker View Post
Greetings
So yesterday Trixie was running fine, except for a mild hesitation coming of the line at a few intersections. That didn't really stick out as I've got the idle set (with SEPST) to 800RPMs...so it can happen.

But...

Last night I went out (or tried to) for cigarettes, and she fell flat on her face coming out of the driveway. Bucking, spitting, throttle was barely responsive.. She acted like she was out of gas...even though the tank is almost half full.

Problem persisted this morning when bike was completely cold:
  • It starts a bit reluctantly, but ok.
  • It will rev sitting still...but is somewhat sluggish.
  • Trying to take off it has no power, and immediately starts acting like it is running out of gas.
  • No engine light, and the only DTC is P0562 (low battery) that is several months old.

In the last couple of weeks I have noticed that the fuel pump has gotten a bit louder. It originally was a soft hum, now it's a bit ragged sounding ... Not real loud...but noticeable.

Now I've been wrenching my own ride since my teens, but I'm a bit new to this EFI stuff (last bike was an 87 FLHTP). And since HD stands for Hundred Dollars...I thought I'd run my hypothesis past you folks to see if it made any since to anyone else that might be a bit more familiar with this critter. Meanwhile my - project bike - 1981 Shovelhead FLTC named Alice just became my primary mount.

So... Looks like a duck, walks like a duck, quacks like a duck ... Sure it could be an Ostrich, But... I'm thinking the fuel pump is taking - or has taken - a shit ... Make sense to anyone else??

Thank you,

Stoic Joker
Look in the fuel tank and see if there is gas coming out of the fuel line. You can also fill the tank, and if it solves your problem, it's probably a split fuel line . It could also be a oblonged pick up.

Have you changed your fuel filter ?
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2010 FLTRX , Stage 1, 13" Madstad, Mono tubes, SuperShox, Heritage style bars. Alpine CDE-HD149BT,Soundstream Picasso Nano Series PN4.520 , 5X7 and 6.5 Infinity Kappa speakers
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-15-2016, 07:21 PM
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Add that if it was "one lungin" I'd suspect a fuel injector
But she whined affectionately for a reason
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-15-2016, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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Assuming the steering head is at 12:00, there is a rush of fuel coming from about 4:00. I can't tell where it's coming from...the lines aren't really visible.

I'd been told - unlike the older EFI bikes - the fuel filters on the 10s weren't an issue, but I'm open for second opinions under the circumstances...

Scarlet Red 2010 Road Glide Custom named Trixie - She's a flashy little minx..
Basic black 1981 Tour Glide Classic named Alice - She's a sleeper project.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-15-2016, 07:29 PM
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Start with the fuel filter. Once you get that out and take a look at it compared to a new one you will probably solve the issue. It is relatively easy to get at when you know the tricks.

Remove the seat. Remove the left side cover. Remove the 40amp master fuse. Remove bolts that hold on the tanks console. Remove the gas cap and then take off the dash console, replace the gas cap. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to remove the wire plug at the 1 o clock position from the gas cap assembly. remove the overflow hose from the barbed fitting.

Siphon out the gas in the tank now to a suitable fuel storage container, then replace the gas cap again

Using a large flat blade screwdriver wrapped in cloth or couple layers of microfiber towel along with a dead blow hammer to rotate the cam lock ring counter clockwise. When the ring is loose remove it and note the stamping on it for "top". This should go back on in the same position it was removed.

Now you can lift up the fuel cap assembly, use the small flat blade screwdriver to remove the black ground wire on the fuel cap assembly at the 11 o clock position. Use the same small flat blade screw driver to remove the electrical plug underneath the fuel cap assembly at the 1 o clock position(directly under the top wire plug)

With those wires disconnected you pull up on the assembly, you will need to reach in and disconnect the line from the pump to the filter assembly (small diameter line) and also disconnect the line to goes to the exit of the tank to the throttle body. You may also have to reach in to the right side of the tank to unclip the suction line from the clip. The fuel filter assembly is easy to take apart and the new one should come with a new o-ring.

Re-assemble in the reverse order obviously.

Going from memory, as always consult your service manual for your year and model of bike.


Calgaryglide


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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-16-2016, 09:59 AM
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Just because the fuel filter canister problem was fixed in 08 it doesn't mean that the fuel filter does not get dirty.
Start with the fuel filter first and you can change it without pulling the fuel pump out, you can just pull the filter canister up to the top of the tank and swap out the filter, you just have to be a little more careful.
Next thing would be a cracked/broken fuel line, the best way to check for that is to fill the fuel tank with fuel and if the bike runs fine and then starts to run shitty when the fuel level drops then chances are the fuel lines are the problem.
800 rpm is too low get that rpm up to at least 950. Everyone want to get that old potato potato sound out of their newer bikes but they are just robbing the battery from critical voltage and robbing oil flow from the top end of the engine.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-18-2016, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Just because the fuel filter canister problem was fixed in 08 it doesn't mean that the fuel filter does not get dirty.
Yes, but the question becomes how fast does it get how dirty? From what I've heard the earlier models 'required' changing every 10,000 miles...and I've put almost 20,000 on the 10. There was 38,000 on the clock when I got her so I've not a clue what the maintenance history was during that time. Maybe it was time (normal), or maybe it was just a really bad tank of gas (unlikely).

Honestly, after running an Evo for 20 years (without any filter) I was more Leery of the damn computer deciding to lightbulb on me. I've always kind of hated the damn things...even though I work in IT.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ironmark View Post
Start with the fuel filter first and you can change it without pulling the fuel pump out, you can just pull the filter canister up to the top of the tank and swap out the filter, you just have to be a little more careful.
Much as I appreciate - and was impressed by - the detailed procedure listed above, I was planning on trying to do it this way just to see if I could ... So it's nice to know it is possible.


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Originally Posted by ironmark View Post
800 rpm is too low get that rpm up to at least 950. Everyone want to get that old potato potato sound out of their newer bikes but they are just robbing the battery from critical voltage and robbing oil flow from the top end of the engine.
Back in the 80's I spent 3 months tweaking the stock CV carb on an 82 FLT to get it to hold a 250rpm idle. I could let it sit there for up to 5 minutes letting it hold that idle sounding for all the world like a hit-or-miss engine. It always drew a crowd, and somebody in that crowd would invariable start evangelizing the same dire warnings. But in the 5 years I had it in the bike they never came true.

I pulled the Shovel out, dropped in an Evo and put the Shovel in a hardtail framed bar-hopper, that I sold to a friend that rode it for several years and then sold it to another guy who also had it for a few years ... none of which had any issues with the still then crowd drawlingly low idle.

So if the "damage" takes longer than that to manifest...I guess it can't be that big a deal.

The main reason I picked up the SEPST was due to the factory idle settings driving me nutz. When it started (hot or cold) it would sot at 1,600rpms for almost 5 minutes before dropping low enough to not make ones butt tighten when dropping into first because it sounded like the cases were being torn in half. Granted this was partially a stock/fragged compensator's fault...but that's another story.

Now I realize that EFI killed the classic Harley staccato idle, and I remember well reading the articles about how hard the factory tried to get the computer to reproduce it. But the - when finally warm - stock 1,000rpm idle while quite smooth was eerily (Japanese) just too smooth. So it had to go. At 800rpms the volt meter in the faring is always happy, and the 2 years old that I know of battery that was in the bike when I got her still spins her up just fine. *Shrug*

Speaking of things that just had to go ... The FBW limp dicked (Traction control?) throttle response also got tossed out the window at that point as I completely flattened the map to a straight 1:1 so the throttle now does WTF I tell it to instead of meekly peaking open based on what it thinks I need.

Scarlet Red 2010 Road Glide Custom named Trixie - She's a flashy little minx..
Basic black 1981 Tour Glide Classic named Alice - She's a sleeper project.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-18-2016, 09:10 AM
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Humm, no bragging on the 100k+ that only I have put on 03 FLTRI and never been inside the tank.
Seems there some critical tinkering that's gone unnoticed, causing
stress or supporting step in the process.

Most of us know you take an Iron head and tweak em to walk away from you like it' a one legged man in an ass kicking contest, and still stay on the stand.

Take you already de-engineered and have the same results?
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-18-2016, 09:57 AM
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As long as you are going to be in there, change the filter, check the fuel line (I suspect this is what it is), to check the fuel pump before you pull it apart, check pressure with a gauge at the quick disconnect first to rule confirm it is fuel tank related.. Even though the filter could be clogged, it should slowly build up to around 50 psi or a little more. Turn off the ignition and watch the fuel gauge, if it drops down quickly probably the fuel line. Fuel pumps do go bad, but see very few. Also, if you want to make a tool to get the ring off to get the pump out, at Lowes or Home Depot you get a, can't remember, 4" or 3" coupling and a plug with the raised up part to put a crescent wrench on. You glue that in after you have ground out the slots that fit the ring on the gas tank ring. Dang, my memory gets to me, it could even be a bigger fitting, but you get the picture on how to make one on the cheap. Good luck.

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