Oil pressure issue. - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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Oil pressure issue.

So, riding my '06 RG yesterday and rode into work yesterday morning with no issue (about 35 miles) left around 6PM filled up and headed to another engagement about 15 miles away. just got off the highway where I was doing about 80. hit the off ramp and at the next light the bike dies. No idea why. It started right back up then I noticed the oil pressure at idle was almost to 0. Got going again and spiked up to 32. but would fluctuate more between 25-40 as the RPM's increased and decreased, at idle is was around 10. I had a mile to my destination and got there and immediately checked oil level. it wasn't full, but it was well above the add quart position. Rode the rest the way home last night with slight fluctuation in pressure, and checked oil level again this morning before riding into work again. At first idle was fine, but when engine warmed up it seemed to fluctuate more. Last stoplight before work and oil pressure dropped again. Hit the throttle to keep from dying again and got into work.

I had my 15,000mi checkup done at 14,600 on the odometer this spring by dealer. Now I have 15,700mi on odometer. I do not see any drops in my garage or whenever I stop the bike. Can't see burning oil after 1,000 miles. Like I said with engine off oil level is about halfway between "add a quart" and "full" on dipstick. Does it need to always be at almost full to not get those pressure fluctuations?


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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 10:17 AM
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The oil level in the center of the xxxxx on the dipstick is right where you want it. The normal oil pressure when the bike is at running temp is around 32 psi and when at a idle the oil gauge should only read 4 to 7 psi. There could be a few things that cause a fluctuation in the gauge, it could be a bad wire connection or a bad oil pressure sensor or the oil pump could be going bad. Have you opened up the cam chest yet? There have been issues with the cam chain tensioner shoe being worn down in the 06 and earlier models and the particles from the shoe getting into the engine oil which will then cause crank damage and oil flow problems. The best way to check and see if pieces of the tensioner shoe is in the oil is to remove the oil filter and cut it in half and if you see orange specs in the filter it will be from the cam chain tensioner. If there are signs of the tensioner shoe in the oil filter you must replace the cam chain tensioner ASAP and do a oil change and hope for the best.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 12:12 PM
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Oil level will not have a large effect on oil pressure at normal operating speeds. As long as there is oil in the pan, the pressure will be fine.

What you describe could be an issue with the pump system, or could be an issue with the oil itself.

But it could also be an issue with the oil pressure sender/gauge. 1st thing would be to put a service gauge on it and see if it duplicates the readings.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 04:05 PM
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Was it making any noise? Your top end should start clattering if oil isn't getting up there. Your oil level is fine. Start checks as Iron Mark recommend.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironmark View Post
The oil level in the center of the xxxxx on the dipstick is right where you want it. The normal oil pressure when the bike is at running temp is around 32 psi and when at a idle the oil gauge should only read 4 to 7 psi. There could be a few things that cause a fluctuation in the gauge, it could be a bad wire connection or a bad oil pressure sensor or the oil pump could be going bad. Have you opened up the cam chest yet? There have been issues with the cam chain tensioner shoe being worn down in the 06 and earlier models and the particles from the shoe getting into the engine oil which will then cause crank damage and oil flow problems. The best way to check and see if pieces of the tensioner shoe is in the oil is to remove the oil filter and cut it in half and if you see orange specs in the filter it will be from the cam chain tensioner. If there are signs of the tensioner shoe in the oil filter you must replace the cam chain tensioner ASAP and do a oil change and hope for the best.

What you are seeing sound perfectly normal. Hot oil pressure will be around 30psi at highway speeds, close to zero at idle, and will vary with rpm as you observed.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for the advice. did not hear any additional noise, and the oil pressure when it gets warm makes sense. I just haven't had my bike just die on me going from 45mph to 0. It was plenty warm and couldn't think of any other reason to do it. Then I noticed my pressure gauge jumping around and hadn't noticed that before when hot. I will keep an eye on it and pull the Cam chest this weekend to take a peek.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 10:44 AM
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Good idea to check the cam chest, the 06 and earlier models have the manual cam chain adjuster and they have a history of the cam tensioner shoe wearing down and disintegrating and then the particles will get in the oil and cause further engine damage.


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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 11:41 AM
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Had the same thing happen on my '07 EGC. Stop the bike, check everything and restart. OP would be back to normal. A year later same thing happens again, same result. 2 days later on the highway, my wife flies past me and signals me to pull over. Her windshield is covered in oil. Oil is running under my bike, my left pantleg is soaked. Oil is running out of the Crank position sensor. Pull it and find it is in pieces and not repairable on the roadside. I suspect that it was pieces of it that were floating around and plugging up the OP sensor intermittently. Had to go home on a flatdeck that evening.
Might be worthwhile pulling it to check it. Just Sayin.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 04:46 PM
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Hi,
I have been lurking on this forum for a while …. would like to chime in on this topic. I have been doing research and am currently getting ready to tackle this issue on my ride.

Definitely open your cam chest ASAP and seriously consider “biting the bullet” now with some type of cam tensioner upgrade or replacement kit. All the info I read says that 20k to 30k is the critical point on the cam tensioner pads, but wear can happen much earlier – like say…. 16k.. . If your tensioner pads are OK upon inspection and you opt not to upgrade at this point – check OP with mechanical gauge then inspect all your electrical connections and wiring on the OP gauge circuit thoroughly.

I have 27,500 miles on my 2006 Road Glide EFI (Stage 1 kit – everything else stock) and been having a similar issue – my oil gauge gets “pinned” at start-up and fluctuates randomly from there. Bike runs like crap when hot on occasion. Rough idle and stalls intermittently.

First, I tested OP with a mechanical gauge...
With the mechanical gauge attached to the sender switch threads, OP readings were within spec – then, I changed the sender switch – that did not work – same issue.
Now I’m thinking the cam tensioners are about to grenade and the cam plate take a dump or, it may be an electrical issue inside the faring. I never inspected cam chest yet. Last oil change the filter was “clean” – no orange plastic stuff.

That was last year. I moved, other personal stuff and riding a lot of dual sport bikes had the RG on the back burner……
I am currently overhauling the RG since I have a few big trips planned for this year. I chose to upgrade to the S&S 509C cams and chest kit. Since I am about to reach the critical 30k mark and the issue at hand, I felt the full upgrade was best. I like the fact that the new type of oil pump is included with the kit as well as the modern cam tensioners. Also on the list is a new Cycle Electric 50amp kit and the ebay Dual LED Headlight Assembly from China.

You recently got the bike back from service……. Was the fairing removed?
I do not want to bash dealers in my first post on this forum since I have good relationships with several dealers in my area and more than a few dealers have saved my ass on long distance trips over the years. But, a few times I have gotten my bikes back from service with “new issues”. My most recent dealer service (25k service), among other things, the headlights were wayyy out of adjustment and the faring was loose when I got the bike back. A loose or damaged wire somewhere in the faring OPG circuit is not out of the realm of possibility. So – when I get to upgrading the headlights and have the fairing off – I will check to see if any “new issues” developed with the OP gauge wiring during the last trip to the dealer.

I am pretty sure the root of my issue lies in the cam chest, but I will check the entire OPG circuit again when I have the fairing off.

If your tensioner pads are OK – and you still get the crazy readings – don’t forget to check the wiring and gauge inside the fairing.

Good Luck.


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