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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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Front Brake Pads grabbing

So I plan to pull the wheel. Clean the rotors and front end.

Looking at pads. I see "Sintered" pads offered. Are they better than OEM?

I've been happy with the OEM pads got 40K on all three.

Thanks in Advance,

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-15-2018, 10:12 AM
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What do you mean by grabbing? Apply too much stopping force at light lever pressure? Or a pulsing as the scooter slows down? If it's pulsing, you should put a dial indicator on those rotors before you pull the wheel. Not sure what year you're working on, but there were a couple of years where they had some issues with rotors warping.

Sintered pads have more stopping power and more fade resistance. Down side is increased rotor wear, and a longer break in period on used rotors.

If you decide to pull those rotors off of the wheel, make sure you chase the thread locker out of the holes in the wheels before putting them back on. The either use new bolts or clean the old ones and use thread locker on them. A little heat makes them spin out with less effort.


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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-15-2018, 01:09 PM
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X2 on what Therm said. Alot of times you'll strip the head of the bolt if you don't heat that thread locker up first.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-15-2018, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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Grabbing like throw you over the bars.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thermodyne View Post
What do you mean by grabbing? Apply too much stopping force at light lever pressure? Or a pulsing as the scooter slows down? If it's pulsing, you should put a dial indicator on those rotors before you pull the wheel. Not sure what year you're working on, but there were a couple of years where they had some issues with rotors warping.

Sintered pads have more stopping power and more fade resistance. Down side is increased rotor wear, and a longer break in period on used rotors.

If you decide to pull those rotors off of the wheel, make sure you chase the thread locker out of the holes in the wheels before putting them back on. The either use new bolts or clean the old ones and use thread locker on them. A little heat makes them spin out with less effort.
The brakes grab, like a proportioning valve is wide open. I think one rotor or pad may have lubricant on them somewhere. Then you feel like you are going over the bars. I don't feel any push back through either lever.

The plan is to pull it all apart and clean it up good. But, before I pull the wheel out, I plan to check for any run out. Jack the bike up, rotate the front wheel, then pull the pads out. Repeat...

I have new pads on order. But rotors??? Oh Geez!!

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by MidNightRGU View Post
The brakes grab, like a proportioning valve is wide open. I think one rotor or pad may have lubricant on them somewhere. Then you feel like you are going over the bars. I don't feel any push back through either lever.

The plan is to pull it all apart and clean it up good. But, before I pull the wheel out, I plan to check for any run out. Jack the bike up, rotate the front wheel, then pull the pads out. Repeat...

I have new pads on order. But rotors??? Oh Geez!!
Grabbing like that is usually a friction issue. Or a binding caliper. Nothing in the system like a proportioning valve. Not sure what year you're working on, but its not an issue associated with the 1gen antilock. Just for grins, make sure the wheel spins freely when you jack it up. Then apply and release the brake, then open a bleeder. Repeat on the other side. If either side produces a spurt of fluid, as opposed to a dribble, there is a hydraulic issue.

After that, I would check the rotor run out. .008 max is the published spec on my scooter, I would replace them if it was more than .005. If its good to go, then clean the rotors with a good degreaser that will also cut wax and silicone. Dish soap and water followed by some brake clean or carb cleaner sprayed on a clean rag to wipe them down will do it. You can do that on the scooter, no need to pull the wheel. Then scuff them a little with some 400 grit emery paper. Just enough to take the shine off, then wipe em off again. After that put the new pads on and see what got.

A word of caution, open the bleeder when you push the pistons back. So the old fluid does not back flush back through the brake system.


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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-17-2018, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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We are on the same page. . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thermodyne View Post
Grabbing like that is usually a friction issue. Or a binding caliper. Nothing in the system like a proportioning valve. Not sure what year you're working on, but its not an issue associated with the 1gen antilock. Just for grins, make sure the wheel spins freely when you jack it up. Then apply and release the brake, then open a bleeder. Repeat on the other side. If either side produces a spurt of fluid, as opposed to a dribble, there is a hydraulic issue.

After that, I would check the rotor run out. .008 max is the published spec on my scooter, I would replace them if it was more than .005. If its good to go, then clean the rotors with a good degreaser that will also cut wax and silicone. Dish soap and water followed by some brake clean or carb cleaner sprayed on a clean rag to wipe them down will do it. You can do that on the scooter, no need to pull the wheel. Then scuff them a little with some 400 grit emery paper. Just enough to take the shine off, then wipe em off again. After that put the new pads on and see what got.

A word of caution, open the bleeder when you push the pistons back. So the old fluid does not back flush back through the brake system.
It's a '13 with 50k on the clock. Speaking of fluid, I figure its time to flush the entire system.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-18-2018, 07:28 AM
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My 11's front rotors warped at about 20,000 , would almost pitch you over the front end when the brakes were applied . Replaced with the Harley free floaters .. 40,000 out of the pads is fabulous , especially the rear , I replaced my rears yesterday and they were almost to the metal with less than 25,000 on the pads ..

I changed my fluid this week also , was pretty nasty ..

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-18-2018, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MidNightRGU View Post
It's a '13 with 50k on the clock. Speaking of fluid, I figure its time to flush the entire system.

IMHO it should be done every off season if it has ABS. The ABS bleed/flush requires some electronic intervention.


And every other off season if its just regular brakes. Or you could switch to DOT 5.


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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-20-2018, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thermodyne View Post
Grabbing like that is usually a friction issue. Or a binding caliper. Nothing in the system like a proportioning valve. Not sure what year you're working on, but its not an issue associated with the 1gen antilock. Just for grins, make sure the wheel spins freely when you jack it up. Then apply and release the brake, then open a bleeder. Repeat on the other side. If either side produces a spurt of fluid, as opposed to a dribble, there is a hydraulic issue.

After that, I would check the rotor run out. .008 max is the published spec on my scooter, I would replace them if it was more than .005. If its good to go, then clean the rotors with a good degreaser that will also cut wax and silicone. Dish soap and water followed by some brake clean or carb cleaner sprayed on a clean rag to wipe them down will do it. You can do that on the scooter, no need to pull the wheel. Then scuff them a little with some 400 grit emery paper. Just enough to take the shine off, then wipe em off again. After that put the new pads on and see what got.

A word of caution, open the bleeder when you push the pistons back. So the old fluid does not back flush back through the brake system.
Runout was .003, The inside right rotor surface had something on it. It was sticky, like a softdrink residue. First I cleaned all rotor surfaces, with soap/water, on a cloth diaper, then 600 grit paper. While the calipers were off I noticed a ridge on the inside of the braking surface on each rotor. I smoothed this out with a metal file, then I cleaned all rotor surfaces with brake clean.
Removing the pads I found the left retaining clip was damaged, and the pin was out of round. These are special order parts, estimated 7 to 10 day delivery. So bought new HD pads/clip/pin. Thank goodness DK has liberal return policy.
On the test ride, I used only the front brakes, they don't grab like they did, but still not smooth as I'd like.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-21-2018, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MidNightRGU View Post
Runout was .003, The inside right rotor surface had something on it. It was sticky, like a softdrink residue. First I cleaned all rotor surfaces, with soap/water, on a cloth diaper, then 600 grit paper. While the calipers were off I noticed a ridge on the inside of the braking surface on each rotor. I smoothed this out with a metal file, then I cleaned all rotor surfaces with brake clean.
Removing the pads I found the left retaining clip was damaged, and the pin was out of round. These are special order parts, estimated 7 to 10 day delivery. So bought new HD pads/clip/pin. Thank goodness DK has liberal return policy.
On the test ride, I used only the front brakes, they don't grab like they did, but still not smooth as I'd like.
You might want to recheck the runout. This time do it with the rotors warm from a ride. .003 is considered serviceable, but it can be felt. Especially if you're looking for it.


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