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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Dead in the water!

I replaced the bars last weekend and have been riding for the past couple of days. the problem started with the blinkers, (custom Dynamics fire ringz with load stabilizer) would flash normally for 3 flashes then flash rapidly. I checked the diag codes and it was throwing b1121 and b1122.

I called up CD and was troubleshooting over the phone when they asked me to check the contacts in the front turn signals with my multimeter. I must have touched the side or grounded it out somehow because I heard a pop and the signal quit working. I checked the fuse panel and found that the lighting fuse ( item 19, Figure 7-7 page 7-9 of the service manual) was blown. I replaced the fuse and the running light rings came back on.

Problem is when I turn on the ignition I hear the fuel pump engage, I get the Neutral light, oil pressure light and running lights, head lights, tail lights, brake lights and radio, all gauges activate, but the tach and speedometer remain dead. No diagnostic window, no power to the starter, nada. I hope I didn't fry the TSSM/HFSM but that's all i can think of at this point. I replaced all of the 15 amp fuses, just in case, the 40 amp main fuse and swapped the relays around just to see if perhaps one of them went bad, but no joy.

Anybody have any ideas why my tach and speedo are dead and how to resurrect them without giving up and taking it to the stealer?

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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 06:46 PM
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Several fuses involved with the stuff on the cluster. Might want to run through them all and make sure they have voltage on both sides.


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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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Several fuses involved with the stuff on the cluster. Might want to run through them all and make sure they have voltage on both sides.
Again, only the tach and speedo appear to be dead. Where would you suggest I start looking. I have already replaced every fuse on the left side panel fuse box.

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-17-2018, 07:42 AM
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Trace out the circuit that you blew the fuse on. You may have arced a connection open somewhere.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-17-2018, 08:22 AM
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everything is plugged in fully? seems like a "duh" but it happens

Did you have to depin the plugs and put them back in? Are they in the proper spots?

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-17-2018, 08:34 AM
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everything is plugged in fully? seems like a "duh" but it happens

Did you have to depin the plugs and put them back in? Are they in the proper spots?
that was my thought.....

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-17-2018, 11:39 AM
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there is a ladder test in the electrical service manual that will walk you though the diagnosis.

Its based on what works and what doesn't.


So what works?

Back lighting?

Mil lamp, battery lamp, security lamp?

Speedo needle?

Odometer ?
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-17-2018, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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there is a ladder test in the electrical service manual that will walk you though the diagnosis.

Its based on what works and what doesn't.


So what works?

Back lighting?

Mil lamp, battery lamp, security lamp?

Speedo needle?

Odometer ?
Thanks Thermodyne, At least we're now going in a useful directiopn. Since I don't have the electrical service manual, mind walking me thru this?

What works- Everything EXCEPT anything on either the speedometer or the Tachometer.

Both gagues and their attached functions are completely inop, no lights, no needles, nothing.

All other gagues work, the oiul pressure , air temp, fuel, and ammeter all have back lighting and the needles function.

Neither blinker works, but the running light rings illuminate. What I mean is The CD fire rings are LED assemblies that have a row of White led's on the outer ring and amber rows on the inside . The outer row serves as a running light and the inner rows as the blinker. The running light functions but the blinkers do not, the flashers do not.

I can hear the fuel pump prime when I turn on the ignition but the starter does not work

What does work - everything else!

The headlights work on both high and low beam
The horn works,
the speaker switch, acc switch, and cruise switch all light up leading me to think they also work.
the brake light works
the radio works across all bands and voulmes
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-17-2018, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Trace out the circuit that you blew the fuse on. You may have arced a connection open somewhere.

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Several fuses involved with the stuff on the cluster. Might want to run through them all and make sure they have voltage on both sides.
Remember, I put over 100 miles on the bike after the swap. I was just trying to troubleshoot why the turn signals were continually throwing codes

Everything was working after the bar swap with exception of the blinkers throwing the b1121 and b1122 codes

I reset the codes and the bike worked fine until I hit the blinkers. Then it would throw the codes again and after 4 flashes they would speed up again.

All possible fuses have been replaced and all plugs have been inspected and reconnected and still no power to either the tach or the speedo.


This makes me think it is not an internal wiring issue.

It wasn't until I was troubleshooting with Custom dynamics on the telephone, and he asked me to touch one of the poles in the front turn signal and the side of the receptical to see if there was continuity. I heard the fuse blow and found it and replaced it.

It was then when I went to turn on the ignition again that I discovered the tach and speedo were both dead.

I then proceeded to replace every 15 amp fuse on the fuse board and tried swapping out the brake relay for the ignition relay since they are identical and if I had blown the ignition relay some how, replacing it with the brake relay would at least let me know it was bad, but no luck.

This is what makes me think of the TSSM/HFSM since both the tach and speedo and starter are integrated through it, no?
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Last edited by sfcusaret2004; 05-17-2018 at 06:36 PM. Reason: additional info
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-17-2018, 07:45 PM
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At this point we only care about what works on the speed, which sounds like nothing. Basically we'll try to fix one thing at a time. And perhaps fix both gauges in the process. A note of warning, I using an 11 diagnostic manual, but as far as I know, the speedo wiring is the same as 13.

First up is the WOW test, which yours will not do.

So we need to check the voltage feeds and ground. On the rear of the speedo is a 5 wire connector. Turn the scooter off and pull the battery fuse before you unplug it. Then put the battery fuse back for the test. Same thing before you plug it back in, pull the battery fuse.

Pin 1 is an orange wire and should have battery voltage with the key on. It feeds through the instrument fuse.

Pin 5 is BN/GY or brown grey and should have battery voltage all the time. It feed through the battery fuse.

Pin 6 is the Accessory feed, and should have battery voltage with the key on. Feeds from the accessory fuse.

Pin 7 is BK/GN and is the ground.

Use a VOM to check these values, not a test lamp.

Now a little common sense:

The system has a fault code for a shorted turn signal, so shorting it should not have hurt anything. But the running lights and turn signals share three of the fuses that the speedo head needs. So before you pull it all apart, recheck those fuses with a digital VOM. Don't use a test lamp. TSSM's and ecm's don't like test lamps or analog VOM's.

Any electrical accessory's that were installed and not wired through one of the accessory/battery taps can cause issues. Since you were fine up to the turn signal upgrade, I might remove that stuff before I did the testing.

Killing the tach and the speedo at the same time would be difficult. But they do rely on some of the same fuses. Burning a circuit with a 15 amp fuse is real hard to do. Unless someone spliced it or added a crimp lock.

It really sounds like a fuse issue to me, so take your time, make sure the fuses are where they belong and verify the voltage before you pull the cluster.
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