It's not a good practice to do that anyway. It is always best to start in neutral as there is still a small amount of drag at startup when it's in gear even with the clutch pulled in. You can tell this by the bike lurching forward at startup.
Here is a copy and paste explanation from another forum:
In neutral, you're (starter) spinning the clutch basket and trans output shaft, in the 24 onces of trans fluid, with gears unmeshed at idle.
With clutch in/in gear, you're spinning the clutch basket, with the clutch plates separated, in 32-38 onces of primary oil. There's parasitic drag between the wet clutch plates that doesn't break when cold, or the first time you pull the clutch lever.
Both can depend on fluid viscosity (20w50 vs 75w140 for trans), ambient temps, and/or bike's operating temp.
If the bike is WARM, either/or is about the same. Oil is more fluid and clutch plates separate easier, with less drag.
IF COLD, the clutch plates can stick, causing higher drag, wearing on the starter jackshaft and primary bughing, due to higher amps to start the bike.
TEST: First thing in the morning, put your bike in gear (not running) and pull clutch and try to push it. You'll immediately note the excess drag due to the clutch plates sticking...."
I'm still researching for an answer to your symptom as this seems to pop up fairly frequently. If your clutch switch is good then there is possibly a fuse that is blown or a pinched wire somewhere. Someone stated that if they pull the clutch lever in 3-4 times rapidly then it would work. You could see if that works for you but if not just keep starting it in neutral and ride on until you find the fix. Better for the bike anyway but you still need to find the answer to why it will not start in gear.
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Last edited by RGKen; 09-05-2018 at 11:43 AM.