help with brakes!!!! - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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help with brakes!!!!

Help with brakes!!!!
I have a 2008 road glide that I just did taller bars and day makers on. Had a couple issues but got them sorted with no major problems and was back on the road. Took my wife for a short ride on mothers day and stopped at a park. Smelled something smoky and saw some smoke when we parked. I thought my wife just put her foot on the exhaust so didn't think anything of it. Got ready to go and started the bike. Started to smoke almost right away so I turned it off. Looked under the bike thinking that there was an oil leak or something and not a drop anywhere. I had my wife turn the key on and that's when I saw it, the rear brake sensor was melting and smoking everywhere! Road her home very carefully and had assumed there was a short in the handlebars I put on causing the connector to melt.

I tested the wire/connector that melted continuity against ground and am getting around 400 ohms (so some resistance but some connection with ground on the orange wire with the white stripe). Check the codes and I am getting C1095, C1214, C1216 which is basically brake light on continuously. I pulled the fairing and tested both sides of connectors. I am getting no continuity on the handlebar side and 400 on the other side meaning if there's a short its not in the handlebars I think. The brake light would turn on and off with back and front brake. I have replaced the rear brake switch and connector that melted and the orange wire with the white stripe is still testing 400.

What do ya'll thing? do I have a short somewhere in the orange wire with the white stripe or was the sensor just bad and that's why it melted? I called the dealership and they couldn't (or wouldn't) give me an answer on whether or not the continuity was normal or not ( don't wanna ride with a short in the abs/brake system). Can anyone shed some light on this for me?
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 07:26 AM
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So now that you replaced the sensor/switch for the rear master, is your issue still present? Does everything operate as it should; brakes, dummy lights, cruise control, etc? Until you have a value for what the resistance spec. should be and if you are even testing it properly, I'd stop chasing the 400 number.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 08:31 AM
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I don't know much, but if it were my bike, I'd be rechecking all my work. sounds like you got some wires pinched somewhere. I dont think it's a coincidence that this started after you had the bars and fairing apart.

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 10:18 AM
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Welcome to the tank. The 400 ohms could be the resistance of the brake lamp filament. I would get to the connector for the front brake switch ( handlebar change only affects this switch) and test to make sure it operating correctly using a multimeter make sure it opening/closing properly.

If you have LED brake light then 400 ohms could a partial short circuit due moisture across another connector in the circuit. Good luck.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-27-2019, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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BH#103 - I still need to put my fairing back on and take it for a little spin to see if the cruise control is working again (that's the only thing that wasn't working when this happened) but was trying to see if anyone knew if I had a problem or not to save me from possibly putting it back together and taking it apart again. I am not so much stuck on the 400 number as the getting some continuity between ground and the wire that melted. Do you know where I could find the correct spec? I can't seem to find anything in my service manual.

A Seabee - I completely agree with you. That was my first thought, but I've tested the problem wire and I'm getting no continuity between ground and and the wires in the handlebars. I am not going to take them back apart unless I can find a reason to do so because it's a PITA. Like I told BH#103, I need to throw the fairing back on and take it around the block and see if I get the codes back now that the sensor is new and connector replace.

Phantom6722 - Thanks, I will double check that the front brake switch is working as intended with my multimeter but as of right now I believe it is. I do not have an LED light but you bringing up that it could be the resistance through the bulb is a good suggestion.



Thank you guys, I will dot my I's and cross my t's and report back.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 10:32 PM
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any updates?

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