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My Baby is Sick

8K views 72 replies 24 participants last post by  Mike U 
#1 ·
11 Ultra, stock. Slip ons and screaming eagle plugs/wires but no upgrades. 61,500 miles.

Hopped on the bike yesterday to go pick up some food and she was spitting and sputtering horribly under load. Was pretty low on gas, had planned on filling her up on the way. It idles and revs just fine, unless you are under load trying to accelerate. Limped her to the gas station, she took almost 5 gallons so I really don't think it was having trouble picking up fuel.

Filled her up, same issues. She idles just fine, and if in neutral or clutch in it revs with no issues. When you try to take off she spits and sputters. WIll hold speed ok, starts sputtering on the slightest incline or attempt to accelerate.

I'm about 500 miles from the next fluid change. Checked my air filter, it was nasty so put a new one on. Same issue. I have new plugs I was going to do at this change, so went ahead and pulled em. Front looks fine, rear was caked and white, it scraped off. Installed new plugs and checked the wires, no visible issue on the wires. Same issue. It spits and sputters, I really have to feather the clutch/throttle to keep it from dying. Pull the clutch in and she purrs like a kitten. Roll on the throttle in neutral or with the clutch in and she roars.

What do I need to check next? Fuel filter? I've done some research and came across some stories of a temperature sensor, but the symptoms aren't quite the same. Any advice or direction on what to look at is very much appreciated.
 
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#2 ·
I had similar symptoms after getting some bad gas in New Mexico a few years back. Idled was not as smooth as usual, but would rev up OK with no load - soon as I tried to put a load on it, everything would go to shit. I used some iso-Heet for the next three fill ups before it cleared up completely with performance getting better at each fill up. hopefully it is something easy that is more pain in the ass than pain in the wallet.
 
#4 ·
I had similar symptoms on my 2010 at around the same mileage. The problem was a crack in the fuel filter housing. Have your dealer check your fuel line pressure; this is very easy to do. They disconnect your fuel line and then hook-up a pressure gauge.
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#9 ·
Thank you all for the responses. I am going to try and change the fuel filter tomorrow night. Dealers aren't open near me until tomorrow, hopefully they have it in stock.

I've read through the manual and watched a couple of videos online and feel confident it is a job I can handle. Fingers crossed it is the issue.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
#13 ·
I went through the cracked filter housing on my 10 a few years back. One of the things I noticed was that if I looked to the right inside the tank while turning the ignition on, I could see a stream of fuel squirting from somewhere (i didn't know at the time) onto the surface of the fuel in the tank. It was coming out of the crack in the filter. After replacing the housing it quit doing it.



So that might be worth a shot as a tool free - roadside class - verification test of the cracked housing theory.
 
#27 ·
Jack. Jack. You shouldn't let your emotions get away from you like that. Jealousy is such an ugly emotion!
 
#28 ·
Feelz and emotions are running rampant on this supposedly technical thread...
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Not that there’s anything wrong with that.....?
 
#30 ·
OK. Parts came in. Replaced everything (except the fuel pressure regulator, guess the parts guy didn't include it when I said everything). Now the bike won't start at all. Double checked my work, everything seems to be put back together correctly the way it came apart. The bike will fire when I hit the intake with starter fluid, but dies after a second or 2. Clearly I am not getting any fuel. I do hear the fuel pump cycle up when I switch to run, looked for bubbles like last time but there isn't enough fuel to see bubbles or ripples. I do hear a gurgling when the pump cycles from inside the tank. I'm going to take a break for a while. I think I might pick up a new regulator tomorrow. I would be eternally grateful for any further suggestions on what to check.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Fingers crossed. The first time I put it back together I realized on my double check that the new filter housing didn't have the fuel regulator and I needed to transfer the old one. I thought the parts guy had given me everything inside the tank other than the fuel level sender. Tried putting it on without totally disconnecting the top plate, dropped the regulator in the tank so had to take it apart anyway. Got it back together, wouldn't start at all, but would fire with starting fluid. Went ahead and picked up a new regulator since I was going to tear it all apart again to double check my work. Installed the new regulator, put it all back together and still it wouldn't start. Talked to the service guy at the dealer, he said to relieve the pressure on the check valve. Got a face full of gas, reconnected the hose to the check valve and it started. Took it around the block and it still sputtered under load. Went to a different dealer that had the hose that ran from the tank to the intake because the service guy said he has seen those cause issues. Fought with it for about an hour trying to get it to seat, using a light lubricant on the orings but it just wouldn't go. The neighbor came over with a jar of Vaseline, I got a little nervous until he said it was for the orings. Put a little tiny bit on and they slid right in. Put it all together, relieved the pressure and it fired up. Took it for a spin, still sputtered, but it felt better. I thought I was being hopeful until I pulled back in the garage and my buddy said without prompting it didn't sound as bad. Decided to take it out for a longer ride. The sputtering felt like it was gradually getting better the first couple of miles. Caught a stop light, first in line. Hammered it off the line and took it up to 80 as quick as she would go. One or two little blips after I let it ease along and tried to roll on the gas gently around 2500 RPMs. Stopped at the gas station because my mom had tried to call twice, she(the bike, not my mom) backfired once as I was engine braking. After making sure my mom was alright I fired it back up, and it felt like there were no issues on the 3-4 miles towards my house so decided to take it for a little longer ride up and down a nice little road nearby. Worked it hard on the outbound, even touched 100. On the way back took it at cruising speed, purposely keeping it one gear high so the RPM's were staying in the low 2000s and gently rolling on the gas which is where I noticed the issue was worst before. No issues at all.

So, I have 2 theories. One, whatever the issues was I replaced the bad part but needed some time for everything to get back in sync. I don't know if the computer on the bike works that way, but it seems like it might. The 2nd theory is engine temperature sensor (although I never threw a code). To test the 2nd theory I am going to try a cold start and ride either later tonight or tomorrow morning.


I appreciate the suggestions and advice given, will report back tomorrow. Any thoughts on my theories by people smarter than me (pretty much everyone other than JTB or SE) is sincerely welcome.
 
#38 ·
Happy the fuel pump and reg worked for you.

Guess the one thing I am concerned about is that chalky white that you described on the rear cylinder spark plug. Chalky white screams lean to me and that you're getting extra air into the rear cylinder. Running lean could cause some issues. As funny as this may sound the fuel actually helps cool the cylinder but not enough fuel and too much air can really wear that rear cylinder out in a hurry. With 61,000 mi on the ol gal, if the intake gaskets haven't been looked into and with the issues you were having would be something worth checking on.

Have you checked the plugs since your fix to see if that rear cylinder got any better as far as the color of the rear plug? You want them to be like a toast marshmallow brown. not too black and not too white...
 
#39 · (Edited)
Happy the fuel pump and reg worked for you.



Guess the one thing I am concerned about is that chalky white that you described on the rear cylinder spark plug. Chalky white screams lean to me and that you're getting extra air into the rear cylinder. Running lean could cause some issues. As funny as this may sound the fuel actually helps cool the cylinder but not enough fuel and too much air can really wear that rear cylinder out in a hurry. With 61,000 mi on the ol gal, if the intake gaskets haven't been looked into and with the issues you were having would be something worth checking on.



Have you checked the plugs since your fix to see if that rear cylinder got any better as far as the color of the rear plug? You want them to be like a toast marshmallow brown. not too black and not too white...
I've only put about 40 miles on it since the plug change, not sure if I will get a good read but will check.

I did check for intake leaks early on, using my propane torch. Did not get any revving or change in idle that would suggest and intake leak.

If you know another way to test for an intake leak I am ready to try anything.

I agree 61k is getting up there, but she still runs strong as can be when warm.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
#40 ·
Well I gave up and made an appointment to take her in. Probably just threw a bunch of money at her that she didn't need. Checked the plugs and vacuum cap last night and all looked well. Probably not enough miles on the plugs to see anything. Took it around the block again, same issue except the engine light flashed a few times. Got a little excited thinking I might have a new clue, but stopped flashing before I got back to the house and no codes. Unfortunately the earliestappointment is next week. Ugh.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
#41 ·
So, got a call from the dealership today but couldn't spend a lot of time on the phone as I was trying to get my wife home after an outpatient medical procedure. They said it is fixed and it was something with a prong on the MAP Sensor plug. I will try to get more details tomorrow, but it might turn ugly. When the bike was still under warranty about 4 years ago the MAP sensor was replaced under warranty. A few months later she acted up again, this time they said it was the wiring on the MAP sensor plug. I have never touched the damn thing. It acted a lot different this time, but they say they have ridden it multiple times and it's fixed. I will get more details tomorrow, but it seems really strange that an area they worked on acted up again. Have never had complaints with the service department here so hopefully we will come to a positive resolution. I will be glad to get her back, too bad I replaced the entire fuel system, but at least I know it's good for a long time now. Plus I raised my shade tree mechanic skills one more notch and feel more comfortable than ever replacing parts on the bike.
 
#42 · (Edited)
Bike is fixed and tucked away at home in the garage because I apparently have been transported to the surface of the sun and am afraid I will melt the tires if I do any riding this afternoon.

The MAP sensor was broken. The actual sensor part that goes down in the intake. It was strange, almost looks like something hit it. Noone has a clue as to how it happened, it's been almost 30,000 miles since the thing has been touched. Anyway, couple of hours labor for the testing and fix, price of the part and it's fixed. I replaced a whole bunch of shit that didn't need to be changed, but oh well, she's running good now. I tried like hell on the 45 mile ride home to make it act up but she's running like a dream.

Thanks again to everyone who offered advice. The service guys did tell me that MAP sensors make the bike do crazy shit when they act up and can be hard to pinpoint. The check engine light finally started blinking the day I took it to the dealership, but I couldn't see the code, they had to hook it up to their machine to read the code.
 
#43 ·
Bike is fixed and tucked away at home in the garage because I apparently have been transported to the surface of the sun and am afraid I will melt the tires if I do any riding this afternoon.

The MAP sensor was broken. The actual sensor part that goes down in the intake. It was strange, almost looks like something hit it. Noone has a clue as to how it happened, it's been almost 30,000 miles since the thing has been touched. Anyway, couple of hours labor for the testing and fix, price of the part and it's fixed. I replaced a whole bunch of shit that didn't need to be changed, but oh well, she's running good now. I tired like hell on the 45 mile ride home to make it act up but she's running like a dream.

Thanks again to everyone who offered advice. The service guys did tell me that MAP sensors make the bike do crazy shit when they act up and can be hard to pinpoint. The check engine light finally started blinking the day I took it to the dealership, but I couldn't see the code, they had to hook it up to their machine to read the code.
Look on the bright side, the stuff you changed does wear out. So now your good there too for that much longer.
Good to hear you got fixed.
 
#52 ·
So I'm pretty depressed. Been almost a month I've been messing with the bike. The shop has had it for a 2nd week now. Since I returned it Saturday they have been working with the Harley tech people. There was even a field rep who was in town for another bike that looked at it. They have tried trading the crank position sensor and ECM from another bike. Looked over all the wiring around the MAP sensor. Put a new improved plug for the throttle control actuator(I think that's right, could be something different, it's all becoming a blur). Still not fixed. I am totally bummed, we probably just had the best weather of the summer for the past 4 or 5 days and I cant ride. The wife is recovering from her surgery and will be ready to ride in a few more days and the poor bike is still sick.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
#55 ·
I hate to hear that . Hopefully they'll figure it out soon.
 
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