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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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How tight should head pipe nuts be?

I put on new head pipes on my bike, and the question is can I torque them down real tight, or should I be worried about striping it. I"m asking because one bolt seemed like it was a lot looser than the others. Of course it was the hardest one to reach. So I had to use an open wrench to tighten it down. Just trying to make sure I don't have an exhaust leak.

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 08:17 PM
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when i did mine i notice they where not ever tight to begin with so i just snug them up and no problem you can also go back to tighten
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 08:35 PM
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Here is what my service manual says....
● Using a long 1/2 inch swivel socket, tighten the top nut of the front cylinder head exhaust flange to 9-18 in-lbs (1-2 Nm). Tighten the bottom nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm). Final tighten the top nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm).
● Tighten the bottom nut of the rear cylinder head exhaust flange to 9-18 in-lbs (1-2 Nm). Tighten the top nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm). Final tighten the bottom nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm).

hope this helps

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 11:46 PM
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Here is what my service manual says....
● Using a long 1/2 inch swivel socket, tighten the top nut of the front cylinder head exhaust flange to 9-18 in-lbs (1-2 Nm). Tighten the bottom nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm). Final tighten the top nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm).
● Tighten the bottom nut of the rear cylinder head exhaust flange to 9-18 in-lbs (1-2 Nm). Tighten the top nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm). Final tighten the bottom nut to 100-120 in-lbs (11.3-13.6 Nm).

hope this helps
This is exactly right,.. BUT once your done take the bike out for a nice 10 mile or so trip around. Come back and while its HOT re torque to the specs again. The heat will loosen everything and if you don't retorque when its hot you could lose a exhaust nut later down the road. And those are no fun to try to find, especially on a holiday weekend when no auto parts stores are open. Ask me how I learned this valuble information Its also why I always keep a couple extra packed in my saddlebags, just incase.






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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-06-2011, 09:08 AM
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Just installed V&H power duals and tightened nuts to speck with new V&H gaskets, Problem is that I have a slight exhaust leak. Flanges are just about flush with the head. Question, should I order new gaskets and reinstall, double gasket or ???.
Just a note, I cleaned the port and seat well before the install. The leak is hardly noticeable.


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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-06-2011, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by CHAINSAW View Post
The heat will loosen everything and if you don't retorque when its hot you could lose a exhaust nut later down the road. And those are no fun to try to find, especially on a holiday weekend when no auto parts stores are open. Ask me how I learned this valuble information Its also why I always keep a couple extra packed in my saddlebags, just incase.
+1 Chainsaw. Spent half a day trying to find some for my wife's Sportster.

Be careful, STUPID doesn’t care what direction it comes at you from!!!


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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-06-2011, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by ameleo View Post
Just installed V&H power duals and tightened nuts to speck with new V&H gaskets, Problem is that I have a slight exhaust leak. Flanges are just about flush with the head. Question, should I order new gaskets and reinstall, double gasket or ???.
Just a note, I cleaned the port and seat well before the install. The leak is hardly noticeable.
even a slight exhasut leak can cause problems and eventualy burn a valve.
I have found it is hard to beat stock exhaust gaskets.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-06-2011, 10:05 AM
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I used the Screaming Eagle gaskets for my install #17048-98 because the way the stock ones are designed my head pipe didn't want to seal up properly, my V&H instuction even mentioned that they would be needed. Chainsaw is correct and that is what I did after my installation.....
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-06-2011, 10:45 AM
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+1 Chainsaw. Spent half a day trying to find some for my wife's Sportster.
In a pinch Lowes has nuts with the right threads, jus not shoulder nuts. You have to add a washer. It works but it ain't pretty.


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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-06-2011, 11:05 AM
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[QUOTE=OldNerdGuy;122045]In a pinch Lowes has nuts with the right threads, jus not shoulder nuts. You have to add a washer. It works but it ain't pretty.


That's where I found them.

Be careful, STUPID doesn’t care what direction it comes at you from!!!


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