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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-11-2011, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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08 RG died on trip last night

About 100 miles into my road trip, the 08 rg had a hard start at a gas station, got back on the road, then noticed the amps were below 12 and dropping, we stopped,charged the battery and checked the voltage coming out of the volt reg..11.7, then tried to check the volts from the stator, but could not get a good reading laying in a puddle of grease, dark outside,etc but it looked to be only 2 to 4 volts. Can someone tell me how to test the stator properly? It was just replaced by the dealer, along with the reg and battery 6 months ago.
Although, the dealer I had used.......THEY SUCK!) Skip


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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-11-2011, 06:14 PM
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Start the engine and measure DC Volts across the battery terminals, the regulator should be putting out 14.3 - 14.7 vdc at 3600 rpm and 75 degrees F.


Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.

To do this with a meter which is more accurate: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
You may get battery voltage on all three pins on the newer 3 phase regulators.
The no voltage is for older type regulators with diode indicating the diode is bad and the regulator needs replacing.


Step 3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for the TC88 32 amp system.


Step 4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).


Step 5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.


Step 6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if if passed step 2).


Generally the following is true:
Check your owners/service manual for the system amp output for your bike.
22 amp system produces about 19-26 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms.
32 amp system produces about 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms.
45 amp system produces about 19-26 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-11-2011, 07:04 PM
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Geeze, ya gotta LOVE this forum and it's members. Look at the above post, and tell me there isn't a whole pile of concern for fellow bikers in that narrative.

THANKS xusnatc... Proud as hell to call you a friend!

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-11-2011, 10:22 PM
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Hopefully after xusnatc help you can get back on the road. Let us know how it all worked out.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-12-2011, 01:49 AM Thread Starter
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Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.

To do this with a meter which is more accurate: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
You may get battery voltage on all three pins on the newer 3 phase regulators.
The no voltage is for older type regulators with diode indicating the diode is bad and the regulator needs replacing.


Step 3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for the TC88 32 amp system.
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I got voltage on all three pins, but the diode test showed it wasw good, also, mine is a TC96 and the ohm test came back with 0.3, although the meter is a cheaper version with .05 variance, so I still am not sure why there is a drain and no charging back to the battery, right now i have the primary off.....I could have sworn I heard the stator making noise, but probably paranoia on my part.


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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-13-2011, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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Here's what I found, Stator, destroyed, almost melted, replaced along with regulator, and battery, since it would not hold a charge, cost was 681.00 and two days, plus cancelled road trip.


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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-13-2011, 10:44 AM
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Sorry to hear about the repair bill. Just curious, but how many miles were on the bike ?
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-13-2011, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skipperfltr View Post
It was just replaced by the dealer, along with the reg and battery 6 months ago. Although, the dealer I had used.......THEY SUCK!) Skip
Doesn't repairs like this come with some sort of parts warranty? Another $681 repair bill on something they just fixed 6 months ago would have me in their face asking questions.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-13-2011, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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06-13-2011, 07:44 AM
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Sorry to hear about the repair bill. Just curious, but how many miles were on the bike ?


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#8 06-13-2011, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skipperfltr
It was just replaced by the dealer, along with the reg and battery 6 months ago. Although, the dealer I had used.......THEY SUCK!) Skip

Doesn't repairs like this come with some sort of parts warranty? Another $681 repair bill on something they just fixed 6 months ago would have me in their face asking questions.

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I have 52k on it, and I looked up the old repair bill, it was 14 months ago, sorry, time flies.........but still, only 15k since repairs and 14 months? I still want them to pay for the parts.


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