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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-28-2011, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch Slipping?

I went by to pick up my 2010 from the indy today and when i was leaving the lot i noticed the clutch wasn't catching until the lever was let out almost all the way. this set off alarms for me because i know that's not right, and it just felt wrong as well. well i took off down the road and cracked open the throttle , was getting good pull, and then no pull at all when the revs started climbing to the point where i would normally change gears. i then eased back to the shop and told them it didn't feel right, i tried to explain what was happening. to me it feels like the clutch is slipping, never had that happen on a bike before, but have had it happen in one of my old stick shift cars. feels the same.

well, here's the short list of maintenance that was done while in the shop:
-10k service
-swapped stock hand levers for black levers
-terry components TV3 auto tuner installed

so, the guy is telling me that it's a simple clutch adjustment that needs to be done?

anyone experienced this before or have any insight on what's going on?

of course, all of this happened just right before closing time, so the bike was left there to be fixed tomorrow. i really don't think the autotuner would have anything to do with this, but i don't know at this point. i know i won't get multiple things done at once to the bike again.


thanks for looking, ride safe.

-Country
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-28-2011, 11:06 PM
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Sounds like an adjustment needs to be made. There was a discussion last night about how the clutch pack in the primary has an adjustment screw and if it's too tight, you can get slippage.

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-28-2011, 11:17 PM
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Sounds like the cable needs to be re-adjusted if they swapped your levers.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-29-2011, 12:45 AM
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Did they adj. the clutch at the primary during the 10K svc? IMO, they need to adj. the clutch at the primary & then at the cable per the 2010 HD Service Manual. You paid good money to have your bike worked on. Ask them who took the bike for a test ride after work was done. Something ain't right!!!!!!!!!!1


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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-01-2011, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
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well, i finally got the bike back on saturday. dude told me that he had to replace the clutch spring because the Terry Componets TV-3 auto-tuner gave my bike more power than the stock clutch spring could take.
even though the auto-tuner made a heck of a difference in throttle response and acceleration, i'm waving the b.s. flag on this one. i honestly think somebody goofed up something changing my levers and that was the excuse i was given to cover their ass.


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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhrogFlyer View Post
well, i finally got the bike back on saturday. dude told me that he had to replace the clutch spring because the Terry Componets TV-3 auto-tuner gave my bike more power than the stock clutch spring could take.
even though the auto-tuner made a heck of a difference in throttle response and acceleration, i'm waving the b.s. flag on this one. i honestly think somebody goofed up something changing my levers and that was the excuse i was given to cover their ass.

OK Phrog,
Iīm gonna play the devils advocate here and say that maybe it isnīt so much BS afterall.
My reasoning?
I donīt know exactly how many extra ponies you are getting after you had the TV-3 installed. But, I can say that when you install a stage 1 bigbore (bore only) on either an 88 or a 96 the kit comes with the heavier clutch spring.
Usually a good tune will net you more HP and torque than just a big bore (without cams) would have gotten you.
My 2cents.
I would say that if the clutch pull (freeplay) was more or less the same prior to and following the lever change the slippage was probably due to the extra power your ride has.

Ride Safe,
Vettster
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Last edited by Vettster; 08-02-2011 at 12:12 AM. Reason: Speling! AAARGH!
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 05:55 AM
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I would say it could be a combonation. The clutch should be checked and adjusted at every major service (5k intervals), just my opinion, I'm not sure what the service manual calls for but I know how often my gets checked/adjusted.


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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 08:20 AM
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No disrespect to anyone but I don't see how just a tuner / stage 1 could boost the HP above what the stock clutch spring could handle. I believe the mechanic has the clutch cable too tight. Check the end play at your clutch perch and cable. Pull the cable by hand and check the distance. Should be around 1/8".

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redfish-Joe View Post
No disrespect to anyone but I don't see how just a tuner / stage 1 could boost the HP above what the stock clutch spring could handle. I believe the mechanic has the clutch cable too tight. Check the end play at your clutch perch and cable. Pull the cable by hand and check the distance. Should be around 1/8".
+1 on Redfish's feedback on this one. Like Redfish, no disrespect intended, but it would surprise me to see that kind of a power increase with a tuner. Sounds like they doing just what someone else mentioned "covering their ass" But in the end, if it's adjusted correctly now, and you have a heavier spring, you should have any more problems. But I will add, I would be questioning any troubleshooting they might do for you in the future.

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 09:43 AM
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My money is on the clutch cable being adjusted too tightly after installing the new lever.

As far as having too much power after the tuner being installed, I'm definately calling BS. You could slap a set of cams in it too and the stock spring will still be more than strong enough. Stealer is betting your too ignorant enough to not believe him so he can charge extra for his screw up.

Last edited by tmd; 08-03-2011 at 01:29 PM.
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