How to Install New Cams & Adjustable Push Rods - Road Glide Forums
Do-IT-Yourself For all those Do-it-yourself ideas that will save you some bucks

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-23-2012, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
Grey beard
 
Wildman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cle Elum, WA
Posts: 1,302
How to Install New Cams & Adjustable Push Rods

Hey all,
Ok I am going to try and write everything I did to my bike last week. Please wait to comment until I am done with the write-up. Since we can only post 6 pictures per page there will be a few pages.

So to start with have all your new parts located in your work area and if you have not done so sit down and read the instructions.




Then read the service manual in each section that is shown to read. After that your just about ready to start working on your bike. Put your bike on a lift of some sort or use 2 2X4's to make your bike almost level.



First step is to remove your right drivers floorboard & the front cylinder exhaust pipe. Next you will want to remove the spark plugs and the cam chamber cover. Make sure to put a drain pan under the front of the bike to catch the oil that will come out when the cover is removed. Also I found that making a funnel with some cardboard works great to get the oil into the drain pan. And of course if you forget to put a pan down you end up with a mess like I have.



You also need to remover your air cleaner to make it easier to get to the push rod tubes. Next is to use a screw driver and remove the push rod tube uppers.



This allows you to be able to raise the push rod tubes which will allow access to the push rods so that you can cut them with bolt cutters.



Next is to rotate the until the timing marks line up on the timing gears.



The easiest way to rotate the engine is to put the transmission in 5th or 6th gear and use the rear tire. You can spin the rear tire pretty easy and rotate the engine.

WILDMAN

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Scar's remind us where we have been they don't have to dictate where we're going.

1997 Jeep TJ SE
2011 FLTRU Road Glide Ultra
2010 FLTRX Road Glide Custom (Traded In)
2009 Buell XB12R Firebolt
2008 Honda TRX700XX

Last edited by Wildman; 10-23-2012 at 03:13 PM.
Wildman is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-23-2012, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
Grey beard
 
Wildman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cle Elum, WA
Posts: 1,302
Once the marks are lined up you can then cut the rear push rods with a pair of bolt cutters. Everyone will tell you a different size but I used 16" bolt cutters.





Once you have cut both rear cylinder push rods you need to rotate the engine until the front cylinder is at TDC. Once you are there you can cut the front cylinder push rods.

Next remove the chain tensioner. Before removing it using a piece of wire lock the tensioner piston. I found that a 4 penny nail works perfect.




Now it is time to remove the gears and chain. Before removing the chain you need to mark one link so that the chain can be reinstalled in the same direction. The service manual states that it may extend the life of the chain by doing so. To get the cam & crank gear bolts loose you need to be careful. Use a large breaker bar could damage the gears or bolts per the manual. You need to use a cam/crank sprocket locking tool. Harley sells one or you can get one from Georges Garage part# 320620 for $32.50.





Once the bolts are removed use a small pry bar to remove both gears & chain. Lay them off to the side and pull out the service manual. There is a proper sequence to remove the bolts on the cam support plate & the oil pump bolts.


WILDMAN

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Scar's remind us where we have been they don't have to dictate where we're going.

1997 Jeep TJ SE
2011 FLTRU Road Glide Ultra
2010 FLTRX Road Glide Custom (Traded In)
2009 Buell XB12R Firebolt
2008 Honda TRX700XX
Wildman is offline  
post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-23-2012, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
Grey beard
 
Wildman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cle Elum, WA
Posts: 1,302
Also use something to hold the lifters up before you try to remove the cam support plate. Harley sells some magnetic holders but I didn't have any so I had to do something else. I used some binder clips but turned then upside down. It worked pretty good but next time I'll have some of the magnetic holders.



Here is the cam support plate removed along with the cams.




Next you need to remove the inner cam tensioner and also remember to mark the chain so that you can reinstall it in the same direction. A 4 penny nail works to pin the piston on the inner tensioner.



So once the cam support plate and cams are removed this is what your looking at. The two bearings will be replaced also. You're going to need a special tool to do this also. Of course you can get it from Harley $$$$ or Georges Garage $$ or Gary Beatty [email protected] for a combo install & removale tool. He sells them for $93 and is a great guy to work with.

First is to pull the old bearings out.






WILDMAN

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Scar's remind us where we have been they don't have to dictate where we're going.

1997 Jeep TJ SE
2011 FLTRU Road Glide Ultra
2010 FLTRX Road Glide Custom (Traded In)
2009 Buell XB12R Firebolt
2008 Honda TRX700XX
Wildman is offline  
 
post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-23-2012, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
Grey beard
 
Wildman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cle Elum, WA
Posts: 1,302
Bearing removed...........



Here is one bearing removed and then one new bearing installed.



Make sure to use lots of assembly lube when you install the new bearings and all the other new parts. You'll want to coat the new cam real good to make sure there is no wear during startup.



Install the new cams back into the cam support plate with the chain facing the correct direction plus the cam timing marks are lined up.





Install the Cam Support plate bolts first in the proper sequence and torque to 90-120 in-lbs. Then install the 4 oil pump screws and then while turning the rear tire to rotate the engine tighten the #1 & 2 bolts to center the oil pump.
Torque the bolts to 40-45 in-lbs first and then to 90-120 in-lbs.

WILDMAN

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Scar's remind us where we have been they don't have to dictate where we're going.

1997 Jeep TJ SE
2011 FLTRU Road Glide Ultra
2010 FLTRX Road Glide Custom (Traded In)
2009 Buell XB12R Firebolt
2008 Honda TRX700XX
Wildman is offline  
post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-23-2012, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
Grey beard
 
Wildman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cle Elum, WA
Posts: 1,302
Because we had replaced the cams we need to check the alignment of the cam & crank gear. You will use the cam gear bolt and washer but only the crank gear bolt and then find a washer of the proper size for that bolt.

Tighten both bolts down to 15 ft-lbs using the cam/crank sprocket locking tool. Then using a straightedge across the sprocket faces use a 0.010 feeler gauge to see if it will fit under the straightedge.



If it doesn't go under the straightedge your good. If it does then your going to have to replace the rear cam sprocket spacer with a new one from the table on page 3-85 of the service manual. (I have a 2011 manual) Your may be on a different page. Once you have the alignment set properly you can lube the sprokets to get them ready for reassembly.



Before you bolt the cam & crank sprocket back on double check that the cams are still in alignment. Next you need to rotate the engine and bring the rear cylinder up to TDC. I got my wife to help me and used a straw thru the spark plug hole. As I rotated the rear tire she watched the straw go up or down. As it started to go up I had her hold her finger over the spark plug hole to see if it was blowing air out. So once it was she put the straw back into the hole. Once we got to TDC I stopped turning the tire. Install the sprockets on the cam & crank.



Using the cam/crank sprocket locking tool tighten both bolts to 15 ft-lbs then loosen both bolts 360*. Tighten the cam bolt to 34 ft-lbs and the cam bolt to 24 ft-lbs. Next install the cam chain tensioner and tighten bolts to 90-120 in-lbs. Install cam cover and follow proper sequence when tightening bolts to 90-120 in-lbs.





Now it is time to start doing the push rod install. I'll start that part in a few minutes. Need to take a short break from typing.

WILDMAN

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Scar's remind us where we have been they don't have to dictate where we're going.

1997 Jeep TJ SE
2011 FLTRU Road Glide Ultra
2010 FLTRX Road Glide Custom (Traded In)
2009 Buell XB12R Firebolt
2008 Honda TRX700XX
Wildman is offline  
post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-23-2012, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
Grey beard
 
Wildman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cle Elum, WA
Posts: 1,302
OK we're almost done with this job but at the same time this part takes the longest. Now when I was into the engine and was showing the picture of the oil pump and inner cam bearings I forgot to tell everyone about my little mishap and to point out where and why I had issues.

The first time I put my engine back together and cranked it up I didn't have oil pressure. The reason why was because I had not put the oil pump back together properly. And the REAL FUNNY part is that I almost did it twice. And I had the service manual right in front of me both times. But I did catch myself the second time and did assemble the pump correctly. Take your time and double check yourself 2 or 3 times.

So before we can start on the push rods we need to replace the o-rings on the push rod tubes. When you first take the push rods out of the box look on them and identify which one is for the intake and which is for the exhaust. They are different and you need to make sure you put the correct push rod in the correct hole.

First off start with your rear cylinder since that is the one you set your TDC for. You want to install the push rod inside the tube and then feed both the tube and push rod up to the correct spot. Make sure the new o-ring is in place. Screw the upper section and the lower section of the push rods together. Once they are together you'll have to screw the upper part up until it is tight on the rocker arm. Then tighten the lower section onto the center shaft. You keep threading the upper off and the lower on until the lower get tight. Then you put a little locktite onto the shaft and tighten up the jam nut. Once that is done you you will now unscrew the upper part to make the push rod longer. As it gets longer you will feel resistance. When you do stop. Now you need to set the preload. You will have to turn the upper section 19 times to set the preload of the lifter. Now this is the preload for Fuel Moto push rods. Other manufactuers have different spec's.







Now Fuel Moto gives you regular threadlock but I had tubes of the new Loctite that is more like a gel. Now I don't have to worry about it clogging the oiling holes on the push rods.






Ok time for a little break again. I've got to go cook dinner now. Be back in about an hour to finish this thread off.

WILDMAN

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Scar's remind us where we have been they don't have to dictate where we're going.

1997 Jeep TJ SE
2011 FLTRU Road Glide Ultra
2010 FLTRX Road Glide Custom (Traded In)
2009 Buell XB12R Firebolt
2008 Honda TRX700XX

Last edited by Wildman; 10-23-2012 at 08:18 PM.
Wildman is offline  
post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-23-2012, 09:52 PM
Life Member
 
Hullhorr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mt. Airy, MD
Posts: 6,081
You can leave the oil pump attached to the cam support plate and save yourself that trouble. Nice write up. Your only a few days late.

2009 FLTR MOP
"A Goverment should fear it's people not vice versa"
Hullhorr is offline  
post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-23-2012, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
Grey beard
 
Wildman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cle Elum, WA
Posts: 1,302
When I say turn 19 times I am talking about as you turn the upper or lower section or the lock nuts each flat is a side. Once the preload is set go take a break for 15 to 20 minutes. When you come back if the lifters bled down you'll be able to turn the push rod with a LITTLE resistance. Once this has happened you can move to the next push rod. Repeat the process on both rear push rods. Then have a helper again put a straw or something flexable into the cylinder and watch for the piston to start coming up. Also check the lifters for the front cylinder. When they are both on the base circle of the cam (both lifters are down) your on the compression stroke. Adjust the push rods for the front cylinder the same as you did for the rear.



Install the spring cap retainers on all 4 push rod tubes.

Now put your air cleaner back on.



Next put your floorboards & exhaust back on if you removed them.

Next remove the left side cover and remove the plug from the ecm connection. Hook up your tuner and install your new tune for the cams.



Now I went to all this work just to remove these few parts.




I hope this will help some of you who are on the fence about doing your own cams. This is the first time I have ever worked on the inside of a V-twin engine so I am no expert by any means. And as you can see I had issues but I just didn't give up and figured it out. So there it is so fire away and post your comments.

WILDMAN

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Scar's remind us where we have been they don't have to dictate where we're going.

1997 Jeep TJ SE
2011 FLTRU Road Glide Ultra
2010 FLTRX Road Glide Custom (Traded In)
2009 Buell XB12R Firebolt
2008 Honda TRX700XX
Wildman is offline  
post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-23-2012, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
Grey beard
 
Wildman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cle Elum, WA
Posts: 1,302
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hullhorr View Post
You can leave the oil pump attached to the cam support plate and save yourself that trouble. Nice write up. Your only a few days late.
Seems like a good idea but I was following the steps per the service manual.

WILDMAN

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Scar's remind us where we have been they don't have to dictate where we're going.

1997 Jeep TJ SE
2011 FLTRU Road Glide Ultra
2010 FLTRX Road Glide Custom (Traded In)
2009 Buell XB12R Firebolt
2008 Honda TRX700XX
Wildman is offline  
post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-24-2012, 03:30 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Bremerton, Wa.
Posts: 346
Great write up.

Only thing I would add is the replace the waffled snap ring on the front cam with a new one. Sharp side facing out and properly seated. JMO.

2010 Vivid Black Road Glide Custom
Mike Jesse is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Road Glide Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Help with S&S Quickie push rods hd4cruzin Engine Related 4 03-22-2015 07:55 PM
Fuel moto adjustable push rods $90.00 shipped pat123 Parts for Sale 0 09-06-2014 09:05 AM
Removing Rocker Boxes & Push Rods Q-Hog Engine Related 22 03-21-2013 07:01 PM
Installing Cams & Adj. Push Rods Q-Hog Engine Related 34 11-04-2012 09:48 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome