Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Calgary Alberta Canada
Oil Stains, isopropyl alcohol, wet, scrub, repeat. Air dry for a couple of days, repeat process again.
For good adhesion to concrete, acid etch the surface. For best adhesion sandblast the surface to a 80-100 grit feel finish or ,0015 or 002 of an inch profile
Use a good quality two part epoxy, for a non slip, broadcast in clean white sand, very lightly, backroll the epoxy after the sand.
Depending on your floor size, if you need more than one kit (most of the time you do) "box" both the A and B parts separately before mixing them. This will keep an even color throughout the job. Boxing is simply mixing both kits of the A side together to get an even coloring and mixing both kits of the B side together.
Most of the time the pigment will be in the A side but sometimes it is in the B side. I have seen A side materials have different color variations even with the same batch numbers from the plant where they were produced.
Hot tire pickup is the hardest on floor coatings, in summer hot tires parked on the coating will "soften" or liquify the coating causing it to adhere to the patch of the tire in contact with the floor, cheap porch and floor paints with no surface prep are the most susceptable to this type of damage.
Proper surface preparation is 95% of your job. Do that right and you will have a floor coating that will last for years.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2019 FLTRU, Tyggr
2016 FLTRU, Ruby, moved on to a new owner
2012 Road King Police, rain bike/teaching aid/will only go in circles
2011 Suzuki WeeStrom, Great Pumpkin, gravel rider.
2008 FLTRI, Miss Louise, moved on to greener pastures