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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-22-2017, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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Short somewhere

I have a 2013 RG custom. I am slowly losing juice when the bike is off. If it is not on a tender the battery will be to low to start the bike in a couple days. I have used a light and disconnected the battery, and pulled each fuse and relay one at a time, and light stayed on the entire time. My question is what else could be drawing juice? When we were up at sturgis last year I noticed a funny smell after I started it once, and it seemed to come from up around the power switch. Could it short there, or could a messed up voltage regulator do this?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks!!
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-22-2017, 12:04 PM
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Generally speaking, if there is a short, something is not goijg to work. Touring bikes have a parasitic draw on the battery, so theres a chance your battery is shot, especially if its the original one.

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-22-2017, 12:22 PM
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I always consider any battery life after 3 years is just a lucky bonus.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-22-2017, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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This battery is a year old, I pulled it from the bike for a hour, and the voltage actually went up by about 1/2 of a volt
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-22-2017, 02:00 PM
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You need to use an ammeter in place of the test light to check parasidic draw. I'm not sure how much is too much, but anything over .5 amps is definitely too much, shouldn't be more than milliamps.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-22-2017, 04:58 PM
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My bet is still on the battery.

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-22-2017, 05:17 PM
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My bet is the Battery as well, in today's electrical circuits the battery plays an important role. It does far more than just start the bike these days if the battery is not pulling the correct current from the stator it will mess the whole circuit. I had the same issue a couple of months ago w/ my 2012 RGC!


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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-22-2017, 05:25 PM
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My best guess would be the battery as well, however I don't endorse replacing parts without confirming that they are defective, especially at over $100 a pop.

I have heard that AutoZone and Advance Auto will load test your battery for free, but can not confirm that.

You can get a cheap DVOM from Harbor Freight or Wally World that will do the parisitic draw test, just make sure it has a 10amp ammeter function.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-22-2017, 07:20 PM
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If you have a short, a fuse has blown. Once a fuse blows there is no drain on a battery.

What you are describing is a parasitic draw like others have already said.

You first need to have your battery tested to make sure it is still good.

Once you determine that you have a good battery, you need to disconnect the negative terminal and put an amp meter in the circuit by connecting one lead to the negative battery terminal and another lead to the negative battery cable. Have the Amp Meter set to 10 Amps to start out with.

Make sure everything is off on the bike including the ignition. It is normal to have a milliamp draw due to the clock and other electronics. If you have 1 amp or greater you have an issue. Keep looking at the amp meter and pull one fuse at a time until you see the amps drop down to the milliamp range. When this happens you have found the circuit that is in question.

Now you have to get out the circuit diagram and figure out what to check next. Good luck.


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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-22-2017, 08:19 PM
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This^^^ is a good description of what you need to do next.

Did you say that the test light stayed lit even with all fuses and relays pulled?

Last edited by norm9278; 05-22-2017 at 08:22 PM.
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