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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
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Bound to happen...

So here's my story_ Last night, while riding home the check engine light came on and immediately the speedo light went out and the voltmeter pegged to the top for an instant. The speedo light came back on, the volt meter went back to 11.8-12 volts and the check engine light remained lit. I recycled the cruise control and accessory rocker switches and the CEL went out and everything seemed to go back to normal. I finished my ride home with no issues, parked her and went inside. This morning, she fired right up and I left for work. About halfway there, 15 miles into a 30 minute ride in, the CEL light and the battery light lit up. The voltmeter was steady at 11.8-12 volts. I got to work and went into the diagnostic menu and discovered the following codes

P mode
P0562-battery voltage low
P0563-battery voltage high
p1003-system relay contacts open. WTF does this mean?
S mode
None
SP Mode
b1006-ACC line over voltage. (I assume this threw when the voltmeter pegged?)
b1007-Ignition line over voltage. (Ditto above?)
t Mode
b1006-(Ditto above?)?
b1007-(Ditto above?)?
u1040-loss of communication with ABS (probably from my recent brake job?)

Anyone have any ideas on the ? codes? The battery is original to the bike 2013 roadie ultra, and it has been drained a couple of times due to operator malfunction such as leaving the ignition on for 12 hours or so once or twice. I'm thinking the battery definitely needs to be replaced but am wondering about the unknown codes. I did reset all of them and will see if she starts after work today, and am praying she'll get me home. Thoughts?

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Update: So I replaced the tired old battery with a fresh Heavy duty 470 CCA 28AH beast from complete battery source for the tune of $139+tax. last night. Placed her on the tickle charger overnight and when I got out to the garage this morning the charger was showing green across the board. I turned the ignition on and the voltmeter showed 12.8 volts, OK so far! I fired her up and headed for work. Halfway into the ride, the voltage starts dropping again and the battery and CEL both came on. I get to work, run the diag program and get the same P0562 "Low voltage" code as before. Nothing else in any other module. Now I'm thinking, Wait for it..... Yep possible voltage regulator toast! call the local dealer and get an appointment for Saturday to have it tested and replaced. Hope it's just the regulator and not the stator! oh well., either way it's still under ESP!

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 01:07 PM
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Could it be the Stator? Be careful, the stealership may want to sell you a voltage regulator and stator.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-25-2017, 01:23 PM
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Sounds like a regulator fault. Only way I can think of to get an over voltage code. Might have fried the contacts in the system relay, but if it still runs maybe not, I'd replace it anyway cause their cheap and you can get them at any auto parts store. The ABS module code is troublesome though. Seems like a pretty good price for the new battery.

It's under ESP, so don't worry, be happy!

Last edited by norm9278; 05-25-2017 at 01:28 PM.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-26-2017, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
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"Could it be the Stator? Be careful, the stealership may want to sell you a voltage regulator and stator."
Could be, but since it's still under warranty, I don't care! If the stator is also bad, this will be the perfect opportunity to upgrade to the HO stator and the Baker compensator

"Sounds like a regulator fault. Only way I can think of to get an over voltage code. Might have fried the contacts in the system relay, but if it still runs maybe not, I'd replace it anyway cause their cheap and you can get them at any auto parts store. The ABS module code is troublesome though. Seems like a pretty good price for the new battery.

It's under ESP, so don't worry, be happy!"
The bike does still run, just slowly looses voltage as I ride. Since it's my main source of transportation, I have to ride it to and from work, 30 miles each way. But she goes to the shop tomorrow. Hoping that since My son-in-law is a wrench there I can either get it back tomorrow or they loan me a '17 Glide until it's done!

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-26-2017, 09:24 AM
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From my experiences when the stator is bad the voltage will read normal when the bike is cold but as it warms up the voltage slowly drops to between 10 and 12 volts. From your description I would lean towards the stator.


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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-26-2017, 10:15 AM
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PO562 is set for a low voltage condition. and 563 is an over charge. The diagnostic ladder for them is 21 steps. It starts with a charging system test, I would run that before I rode the scooter again. You have over and under voltage in the same issue. That sounds like regulator/battery/wiring.

The rest are an over volt, a main relay/ecm code and a bunch of stuff complaining about voltage. The system has over voltage protection built in, but it has limits and the damage to electronics is cumulative.

Run the charging systems tests as per the manual. It sounds like a regulator to me, but could also be an issue with a bad connection. Do not use the volt meter on the scooter, use a VOM. The MoCo gauges are not temperature stable. The battery tender lead is a good place to take a reading once you are sure the connections at the battery are good.

Now a word to everyone reading this. Codes refer you to specific diagnostic ladders/sequences. For the code to be of any use to the home mechanic, you need an Electronic Diagnostic manual. And yep, it's more Harley tax, but probably will pay you back on the first repair. It's less than an hours labor at any dealer I know of. And that's not to mention the money it can save you in unneeded parts.


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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-26-2017, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfcusaret2004 View Post
"Could it be the Stator? Be careful, the stealership may want to sell you a voltage regulator and stator."
Could be, but since it's still under warranty, I don't care! If the stator is also bad, this will be the perfect opportunity to upgrade to the HO stator and the Baker compensator

"Sounds like a regulator fault. Only way I can think of to get an over voltage code. Might have fried the contacts in the system relay, but if it still runs maybe not, I'd replace it anyway cause their cheap and you can get them at any auto parts store. The ABS module code is troublesome though. Seems like a pretty good price for the new battery.

It's under ESP, so don't worry, be happy!"
The bike does still run, just slowly looses voltage as I ride. Since it's my main source of transportation, I have to ride it to and from work, 30 miles each way. But she goes to the shop tomorrow. Hoping that since My son-in-law is a wrench there I can either get it back tomorrow or they loan me a '17 Glide until it's done!
As it is losing voltage as you ride, that tells you that the charging system is caput. Take heed of Thermodyne's admonition and get the dealer to pickup the bike, as riding it could do additional damage or it could leave you stranded. You are only running on the battery, and when it's voltage drops enough, you're gonna be SOL.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-26-2017, 02:00 PM
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This is my story: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...regulator.html

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-29-2017, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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update: So I lost the bike for the Memorial Day holiday. Stator's shot so getting a whole new charging system 54 amp High output stator, new voltage regulator and a new battery (my nickel) for the $50.00 deductible on the ESP. bike back in a week.

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