Cycle Electric 3 phase 50 Amp Stator, Rotor and Regulator Upgrade - Road Glide Forums
Do-IT-Yourself For all those Do-it-yourself ideas that will save you some bucks

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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-23-2017, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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Cycle Electric 3 phase 50 Amp Stator, Rotor and Regulator Upgrade

Think my recent audio upgrade with amp has overworked my old gear. Got home from Sturgis and battery was dead. Had it tested (1 month old) and Stealer ship said good. Fully charged battery just drains on short ride. Decided rather than screw around trying to figure out what exactly wrong I would just change it all out. (Have read some good things on here about Cycle Electric). Spent $400 bucks that could have bought a hell of a lot of beer. Anyway stuff came yesterday and just pulled the primary chain case cover tonight. I'll post my progress here over next few days (ff and on again bike time) in case it helps anyone later (or I get in troube and anyone can help me.. more likely). Im going to fabricate ny own rotor puller cause no way im spending $125 bucks for that! PS. My buddy, previous owner of my bike had all the service done regularly at the dealership and I'm glad for it (and I know my bike's older and service issues catching up).. But seriously. How can anyone afford that?! I shudder to think what this seemingly novice upgrade would cost with the "pros."? (Thank God for this site & YouTube).
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-23-2017, 11:52 PM
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I've got a 2012 with an intermittent low voltage / battery light issue. I've been looking at the 50amp Cycle Electric 3 phase setup. I'll be watching your progress. Good luck

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-24-2017, 07:11 AM
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I did all Cycle Electric components on my '12 when I put in the 124. Rock Solid. CE makes great stuff.


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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-24-2017, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Okay down to rotor. Made my own tool to lock sprockets so I could remove front nut by cutting 8 incheck piece of 3/4" electrical conduit and hammered ends oval so both ends could slip over tooths on both chain rings at each end, thus jamming sprocket from moving. Took a hell of a lot of force to remove front nut.. like breaker bar and 4 foot extension of steel pipe! Threads were normal, left loose. And socket size 1.5". On the back clutch assembly the inner nut (you have to take off stuff to get to it, see vid below) takes a 1 and 3/8" socket and is reverse (right loose). I strapped down brake to rear tire to keep from moving and came off a lot easier than front. Anyway this series of video a big help https://youtu.be/GTVNj9uxKks. More to come..
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-24-2017, 03:18 PM
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I was wondering what "removal tool" you were talking about earlier. I usually just use a DeWalt 1/2" electric impact. It'll zip the compensator off without needing to lock anything.

Yes, they are about $200, but they're also incredibly handy for all sorts of things.

...And you could always return it after the job if you wanted to ... Just a thought..

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-24-2017, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000roadglide View Post
Okay down to rotor. Made my own tool to lock sprockets so I could remove front nut by cutting 8 incheck piece of 3/4" electrical conduit and hammered ends oval so both ends could slip over tooths on both chain rings at each end, thus jamming sprocket from moving. Took a hell of a lot of force to remove front nut.. like breaker bar and 4 foot extension of steel pipe! Threads were normal, left loose. And socket size 1.5". On the back clutch assembly the inner nut (you have to take off stuff to get to it, see vid below) takes a 1 and 3/8" socket and is reverse (right loose). I strapped down brake to rear tire to keep from moving and came off a lot easier than front. Anyway this series of video a big help https://youtu.be/GTVNj9uxKks. More to come..

First of all, thanks for documenting this!

2nd, that pic where you are pointing at the tool had me real confused on what body part what being displayed. I zoomed in and cracked up!!!
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-24-2017, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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Stoic Joker.. not sure which removal tool you were referring too. The on in the last post was the conduit pipe to lock the sprockets. The earlier post mentions a rotor puller which is recommended bUT costs $125 to buy. I'm just about to make one tonight. I'm thinking you were talking about untightening those big nuts. And zyes, your way sounds good too. (Im always down for another tool)
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-24-2017, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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James.. Brother, a sick mind like yours is right for a Road Glide! Lol. Your right though.. could have been.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-24-2017, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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Rotor off and found my problem. (I need 4 pics to tell this part so I'll break up in two posts). First insteam of $125-150 HD tool to pull rotor I bought steering wheel puller from Performance Tool that did job for $18 bucks and no modifications. I put duct tape over engine sprocket shafts to prevent damage to threads. THEN when I disconnected socket housing that connects stator to regulator.. OIL CAME DRIPPING OUT in copus amounts. Blew my mind. How?? Well when I finally got stator off I could see the housing around the electrical wires, inside primary chain case were FRIED letting oil wick it's way out of the case, down the electrical lines and filling the socket housing with oil (not to mention what bad thing's occur from exposed wiring inside the chain case. (See pic in next post showing cracked wire cover).
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-24-2017, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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This old girl has the sport of a WWII bomber though.. Two hard rides this sumber to San Francisco and to Sturgis. Both about 1,500 miles each round trip. Never a problem until I pulled into home and then each time bike wont start immediately after.. Anyway here is the fried wires pic.
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