Curved license plate futz with skull screws
Just got finished installing the motoco's curved license plate frame on my road glide. I used the skull screws instead of the ones that came with the kit. Thought it would be an easy fit and look cool. It did look cool, BUT!
The best way to get at the two screws that hold the rear light bar is to use a 1/8" ratchet wrench if you don't want to remove the tire or remove the lower light fairing assembly (both huge pains in the butt).
Easiest way to get the screw out on the left side of the bike is to hold the ratchet wrench with the handle above the screw, and not below it. The right side screw is best removed by holding the wrench below the screw and facing towards the middle of the bike, kind of at a down angle.
If you have micro-sized hands, you will have an easier time doing this than I did. Prepare yourself for maximum patience and a lot of cussing the tight-space engineers who like to make things hard for home-wrenchers. *&^#%$%@ da*&$mn moth&*$^%#ers!!!! Oh well.
When you get the light bar off, be sure to tighten the screws on the license plate frame from the kit all the way down with the lockwashers in place. Don't ask how much extra PITA there is for having to remove the screws that hold the light bar twice. Just trust me. ^%[email protected]!!
Once that's all done, if you plan on using the stock inspection tag with the curved frame kit, you'll need to trim off a large portion of the plate that the sticker goes on to make it fit beneath the outer part of the license plate frame. Otherwise you won't be able to make the license plate and the inspection sticker fit between the two IF USING THE COOL SKULL SCREWS, or the kit countersunk head screws either for that matter. My inspection sticker plate was really thin and aluminum, but I sanded the edges where I had trimmed it and touched it up with black Harley touch-up paint. That way it would blend in with the rest of the bike and not gouge my fingers or my cleaning sponge whenever I wash the rear fender.
Getting the skull screws started was still a pain in the butt, but I found if I just started the top two, then started the bottom two, and tightened the the rest of the way down with the skull wrench from the skull screw kit, it all wound up fitting really tight. I don't think it is even going to need loctite, but I may go ahead and use that just to be sure.
The end result is a curved license plate frame in gloss black with skull-head screws replacing the stock turd-munch frame and reflectorized-head screws.
The hardest parts were getting the light-bar mounting screws in and out of the fender and figuring out what the hell was keeping the outer part of the license plate frame from closing enough to let the screws get started in the holes.
This might not be anything big as far as parts goes, but maybe it'll save one of yall a few minutes and lot of frustration.
2013 FLTRX - Storm - Stage 3 Kit - Pipes, Power, Torque, Noise, Whoop!
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