2018 FLTRX Garage Door Remote Install w pix - Road Glide Forums
Do-IT-Yourself For all those Do-it-yourself ideas that will save you some bucks

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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-10-2018, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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2018 FLTRX Garage Door Remote Install w pix

First, Kudos to Forum Member dklanecky, who blazed this install on the 13 and older RG's years ago. His original Mod is here: https://www.roadglide.org/29-do-yours...2411-62-a.html

Second: I assume NO LIABILITY WHATSOEVER should you attempt this Mod

With the new gauge Pod on the 15+ RG's having moved the Odometer push button 'clicker' to the left handlebar, I figured I could add a Garage Door Opener where the old Odometer push button was on the 13 & older RG's for a clean, stock look. Took a little doing, but here's how I did it:

NOTE: This involves drilling into your stock Instrument Bezel, so if the thought of that bothers you, stop here. Hacking up your bike ain't for the faint of heart.

First off, get yourself one each of H-D part numbers 67880-94 and 67854-98 form your local Stealer, a spare programmable remote garage door opener, some solder, heat shrink and follow the mod in the above referenced post to build your Remote Opener. Once you have that accomplished, you can proceed on your 15+...

1. Place some blue painters tape over the area to the right of the blank Aux Switches and next to the chrome ignition horseshoe. Place the Boot, p/n 67880-94 just to the left of the horseshoe and trace it out with a pen or sharpie. In the center of that mark, drill an 1/8" pilot hole. Then take a 3/8" drill bit and drill out the pilot hole.


2. Ok, now remove the instrument cluster. Start with the two Torx screws. Then, cock your bars full left and set your Ign Switch to the 'Fork Lock' position. Remove the chrome horseshoe underneath the Ign Switch. Just push in at bottom center and lift up n out. Your Cluster will now come up n over your Ign Switch! Grab a thin flat blade screwdriver and pop off the Speedo/Tach harness from the Gauge Pod. DO NOT HAVE THE BIKE ON, OR TURN THE BIKE ON WHILE THIS IS DISCONNECTED!!!!! You will throw Codes out the ying yang!!! Ask me how I know this...


3. I found out, thru trial and error, that the new Instrument bezel is thick. Almost too thick. On the Reset Switch, PN 67854-98, there is a beveled area surrounding the bottom of the threads that, once installed, didn't leave enough threads up top to get the Boot to start threading. So I pulled it back out, took a file and filed off the bevel till it was flush with the threaded area. Once that was done, it went in flush and the boot spun on easy, peasey!

4. Now it was time for reassembly. I wanted the remote controller, now soldered and hard-wired to the remote switch, to stay tucked inside the Instrument Cluster. To do this, I removed the 'wiring tray' that many others have pulled when installing taller bars.

5. The Tray pops out, then you'll need a plastic trim fork to pop the retainer clips out. Once that's out of there, it's reassembly time.

6. I tucked the garage remote off to the right behind the Tach, then reattached the Speedo/Tach Harness and the two harnesses into the dummy plugs in the Accessory Blanks. The Cluster then was set in place, torx screws bolted back up and the horseshoe installed and it was done.


All in all, about 90 minutes, start to finish, but that included taking pix and filing that switch to fit flush.

'18 FLTRX-Vivid Black: V&H Dresser True Duals & FP-3 tuner. S&S MK45 Slip-ons. SE Stage 1 Intake, Ness floorboards & pegs, LRS 13" Dark Thresher, Custom Dynamics signals, KST 12" Renegade Bars w/Avon Grips, Jim Nasi Dash, AdvanBlack Bags, CV B52 amp w/Kappas

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Last edited by Slider57; 02-10-2018 at 05:36 PM.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-10-2018, 01:06 PM
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Well done, thanks for the detailed instructions and pics.
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Last edited by madmat; 02-10-2018 at 06:59 PM.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-10-2018, 04:59 PM
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Nice clean install. How did you determine which terminals of the opener to solder the switch wires to? Thanks for sharing.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-10-2018, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Nice clean install. How did you determine which terminals of the opener to solder the switch wires to? Thanks for sharing.
Disassembled the remote so I had access to the circuit board and took a paper clip and tested till I found the magic combo.
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'18 FLTRX-Vivid Black: V&H Dresser True Duals & FP-3 tuner. S&S MK45 Slip-ons. SE Stage 1 Intake, Ness floorboards & pegs, LRS 13" Dark Thresher, Custom Dynamics signals, KST 12" Renegade Bars w/Avon Grips, Jim Nasi Dash, AdvanBlack Bags, CV B52 amp w/Kappas

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Last edited by Slider57; 02-10-2018 at 05:40 PM.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-10-2018, 05:36 PM
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Nice write up. So you didn't wire it into any power on the bike. Just used a door opener and located the push button to the cluster for ease of use

2018 vivid black rgs stage 4, 14 vindikta wildcats, sony xav ax5000, biketronics 2250.14, hertz mille legend 1650.3, hertz mille pro 690.3
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-10-2018, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slider57 View Post
First, Kudos to Forum Member dklanecky, who blazed this install on the 13 and older RG's years ago. His original Mod is here: https://www.roadglide.org/29-do-yours...2411-62-a.html

Second: I assume NO LIABILITY WHATSOEVER should you attempt this Mod

With the new gauge Pod on the 15+ RG's having moved the Odometer push button 'clicker' to the left handlebar, I figured I could add a Garage Door Opener where the old Odometer push button was on the 13 & older RG's for a clean, stock look. Took a little doing, but here's how I did it:

NOTE: This involves drilling into your stock Instrument Bezel, so if the thought of that bothers you, stop here. Hacking up your bike ain't for the faint of heart.

First off, get yourself one each of H-D part numbers 67880-94 and 67854-98 form your local Stealer, a spare programmable remote garage door opener, some solder, heat shrink and follow the mod in the above referenced post to build your Remote Opener. Once you have that accomplished, you can proceed on your 15+...

1. Place some blue painters tape over the area to the right of the blank Aux Switches and next to the chrome ignition horseshoe. Place the Boot, p/n 67880-94 just to the left of the horseshoe and trace it out with a pen or sharpie. In the center of that mark, drill an 1/8" pilot hole. Then take a 3/8" drill bit and rill out the pilot hole.


2. Ok, now remove the instrument cluster. Start with the two Torx screws. Then, cock your bars full left and set your Ign Switch in the Fork Lock position. Remove the chrome horseshoe underneath the Ign Switch. Just push in at bottom center and lift up n out. Your Cluster will now come up n over your Ign Switch! Grab a thin flat blade screwdriver and pop off the Speedo/Tach harness from the Gauge Pod. DO NOT HAVE THE BIKE ON, OR TURN THE BIKE ON WHILE THIS IS DISCONNECTED!!!!! You will throw Codes out the ying yang!!! Ask me how I know this...


3. I found out, thru trial and error, that the new Instrument bezel is thick. Almost too thick. On the Reset Switch, PN 67854-98, there is a beveled area surrounding the bottom of the threads that, once installed, didn't leave enough threads to get the Boot to start. So I pulled it back out and took a file and filed off the bevel till it was flush with the threaded area. Once that was done, it went in and the boot spun on easy, peasey!

4. Now it was time for reassembly. I wanted the remote controller, now soldered and hard-wired to the remote switch, to stay tucked inside the Instrument cluster. To do this, I removed the 'wiring tray' that many others have pulled when installing taller bars.

5. The Tray pops out, then you'll need a plastic trim fork to pop the retainer clips out. Once that's out of there, it's reassembly time.

6. I tucked the garage remote off to the right behind the Tach, then reattached the Speedo/Tach Harness and the two harnesses into the dummy plugs in the Accessory Blanks. The Cluster then was set in place, torx screws bolted back up and the horseshoe installed and it was done.


All in all, about 90 minutes, start to finish, but that included taking pix and filing that switch to fit flush.
That's a good write up. I did something similar to my 2011 SG. The button broke on my garage opener so I pulled the circuit board and wired it to my battery for permanent power and to my air horn relay. I just beeped the horn when I came home and the door opened and it cost me nothing but time. Might try doing it to my 17 RG but to the light flash switch instead. Don't know if it's possible with the canbus system. Need to research it.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-10-2018, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridez View Post
Nice write up. So you didn't wire it into any power on the bike. Just used a door opener and located the push button to the cluster for ease of use
That is correct. I didn't want to do something that would mess with the Canbus system. I had this same setup on my 13, so I brought it forward to the new scoot.

'18 FLTRX-Vivid Black: V&H Dresser True Duals & FP-3 tuner. S&S MK45 Slip-ons. SE Stage 1 Intake, Ness floorboards & pegs, LRS 13" Dark Thresher, Custom Dynamics signals, KST 12" Renegade Bars w/Avon Grips, Jim Nasi Dash, AdvanBlack Bags, CV B52 amp w/Kappas

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-11-2018, 04:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridez View Post
Nice write up. So you didn't wire it into any power on the bike. Just used a door opener and located the push button to the cluster for ease of use
That is correct. I didn't want to do something that would mess with the Canbus system. I had this same setup on my 13, so I brought it forward to the new scoot.
Awesome. I hard wired Into my old vrod with the high beam switch but I will not do that with this bike. Will probably do what you did. Thanks!
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