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Do-IT-Yourself For all those Do-it-yourself ideas that will save you some bucks

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post #21 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RGKen View Post
I just went to the HD website and clicked on Shop for the Bike and looked up shift linkage for a 2010 and you can scroll down on the page and click on guide and then installation instructions and there it shows it on the inside. Must have been changed somewhere along the line. Most likely will work either way but it is more in line if it is installed on the inside up front.
MIne is a 2010 custom. The instructions with the linkage show it on the inside of the front lever but the head of the bolt that came with the kit gets jammed against the cooling fins.

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post #22 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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Mine is inside on a 17.
Mine is a 2010. Unsure if they changed or not over the years. Instructions say it should be on the inside on mine but it doesnít fit that way.

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post #23 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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Like the last few guys have stated the linkage is supposed to be on the engine side up front. If the bolt touches the cylinder fins on the up shift just loosen the lock nuts at each end of the linkage and rotate it in the direction that lengthens it (makes the threaded parts longer) and this will move the front lever forward a bit and should give you the clearance you need. Then you may need to re-adjust you toe shift lever if it brings it down too much.
I will give this a shot. Makes sense. Thought the length of the linkage on the new part was to stay the same as the oem part though.

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post #24 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 11:56 PM
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okay, y'all have got me all confused now.....

i just went and checked the instructions as rgken mentioned and it states "For all models except 1999 and later FLHT, FLHX, FLHR, and FXDWG: Place the rod end on the inside of the shifter lever"

so i went out to the garage to see if it would make a difference, and lo and behold, i've already got it to the inside on the front. it is still at a slight angle, but as per my post above, it shifts great and doesn't bind.

using the stock nuts that came with the shifter on the cvo, i am not having any trouble with interference with the cooling fins.

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post #25 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 01:37 AM
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I will give this a shot. Makes sense. Thought the length of the linkage on the new part was to stay the same as the oem part though.


Adjusting the length is just a way to fine tune the position of the shift levers. It can also give you the clearance you need.


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post #26 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 10:11 AM
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Nope. The instructions that come with says it will, but the head of the supplied bolt disagrees. It jams against the cooling fins.
Well, I notice that its adjusted full short. Can you lengthen it out and avoid the fin interference? You'll need to reposition the foot lever too.
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post #27 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 10:45 AM
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Not sure it makes a big difference. When I changed to a Kuryakyn shifter rod I mounted mine on the outside at the front as like many have commented the bolt was real close the fins.

It has been on my 2010 RG for years with no problems.

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post #28 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I notice that its adjusted full short. Can you lengthen it out and avoid the fin interference? You'll need to reposition the foot lever too.
It was close to full short; I had set it so that the attachment points would be in the same location as the stock piece. I have since turned it out to almost full extension and put it on the inside of the front lever. It looks like it might just squeak by the fins.

BUT NOW .....

Know any tricks for removing a stripped/wallowed out Allen screw? The head of the screw in the heel/toe shifter shaft cover (heel shifter is removed) feels like it may be stripped/wallowed out. Until I figure a way to remove that cap I canít adjust the shift pedal and my shift peg is basically on the floorboard.

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post #29 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Headrope View Post
It was close to full short; I had set it so that the attachment points would be in the same location as the stock piece. I have since turned it out to almost full extension and put it on the inside of the front lever. It looks like it might just squeak by the fins.

BUT NOW .....

Know any tricks for removing a stripped/wallowed out Allen screw? The head of the screw in the heel/toe shifter shaft cover (heel shifter is removed) feels like it may be stripped/wallowed out. Until I figure a way to remove that cap I canít adjust the shift pedal and my shift peg is basically on the floorboard.

Go to Lowes, HD or about any auto parts store and buy a set of easy outs. They should be able to get the bolt out. The prior owner could have stripped it using the wrong sized allen head. Good rule of thumb is when ever you aren't absolutely sure of the allen head or torx bit size, find one that you think fits and then try the next size up to make sure. It is very common for people to use too small of a bit and it strips the head of the bolt.

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post #30 of 39 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 05:48 PM
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It was close to full short; I had set it so that the attachment points would be in the same location as the stock piece. I have since turned it out to almost full extension and put it on the inside of the front lever. It looks like it might just squeak by the fins.

BUT NOW .....

Know any tricks for removing a stripped/wallowed out Allen screw? The head of the screw in the heel/toe shifter shaft cover (heel shifter is removed) feels like it may be stripped/wallowed out. Until I figure a way to remove that cap I can’t adjust the shift pedal and my shift peg is basically on the floorboard.
You can try driving a torx bit into the hex, then backing it out. Some folks like to put red loctite on those pinch bolts, so some heat might help.

The inner lever has a pinch bolt too, so you can pull and put the shift lever and shaft on the bench where it would be easier to work on the wallowed out bolt.


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