2013 and 2005 fluid changes... - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-02-2013, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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2013 and 2005 fluid changes...

Going to be doing the fluid changes on my 2013 SG and my dads 2005 RK.

Checked the service manuals, and here's the info:

2013:
Engine: 3 quarts
Primary: 38oz wet
Tranny: 28oz

2005:
Engine: 3.5 quarts
Primary: 32oz
Tranny: 20-24oz

Just wanted to make sure this was correct. I'm planning the following:

Redline Primary Oil -- 42904 -- $14.95/qt @ amazon (7 qt's total)
Redline Engine Oil -- 42504 -- $13.95/qt @ amazon (3 qts)
Redline Tranny Shockproof -- 42804 -- $15.08/qt @ amazon (2 qts)

What oil filters do you guys prefer?

I read the derby cover gasket on the 2013 can be reused, but should I replace the one on the 2005?

Anything else I should be looking at? We're planning a big trip during labor day week and want to have all the fluids fresh for the trip.

The 2013 is at 2400 miles, had the 1000 mile service done at 1200miles, but want to get the harley fluid out and redline in. The 2005 was done at 5000 miles and has about 8000 on it now.

Ian -- Tucson, Arizona
+ 2013 Street Glide - Denim Black
- MGS True Duals, Ness Big Sucker, 12' Twin Peaks, -1" Monotubes
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-03-2013, 12:15 AM
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I don't see anything wrong with using the oil filters from HD. I would also suggest purchasing an oil scavenger. (shop.roguechopper.com). It will remove the one quart of oil that's still being held in the engine. This because your changing oil brands and going with a true synthetic. Nice to know all the dirty and different oil has been flushed. IMO
I also think changing to Redline products is a very good choice. I would replace both derby cover gaskets. They don't cost that much.

You will need 11 qts. of engine oil and only 3 qts. of primary oil.

Last edited by inferno1976; 07-03-2013 at 12:32 AM.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-03-2013, 12:51 AM
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Use the pancake style derby gasket. It's a full disk that works way better than the o-ring style

I like using k/n filter mostly because they have a nut welded onto the end and makes removal and tightening waybetter

Good luck. Take your time. Have a beer



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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-03-2013, 04:15 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inferno1976 View Post
You will need 11 qts. of engine oil and only 3 qts. of primary oil.
11 qts for engine.. Is that if I did the scavenger? 05 is 3.5 and 13 is 3, so that should be 7 total, right?


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+ 2013 Street Glide - Denim Black
- MGS True Duals, Ness Big Sucker, 12' Twin Peaks, -1" Monotubes
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-03-2013, 08:35 AM
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just double checked your math. you do not need 7qts of primary fluid....

i think you're gonna find that the 3 qts for the 13 is gonna be more like 3.5 qts. if you look in the owner's manual, the spec is 4.0 qts. the oil change procedure says to initially add 3.0 qts and then add additional to bring it within spec.

for the primary, i would use rotella t 15w-40. it is jaso certified for use in wet clutches and can be had from autozone, advance, etc. for about $13 for a gallon jug.

the k&n filters are nice enough, but i prefer the hd oil filters. i don't have any problems taking them off and they can be had for about half the cost of the k&n.

i've reused the derby cover quad ring gasket many times and had no leaks. on the 05, i am not sure if it has the quad ring or the pancake style. if its the pancake, i've no experience on them.

the scavenger thing, well, if it makes you feel good to use it, then go ahead. but *my opinion* is that it isn't necessary. the little bit of leftover oil is not gonna explode if it mixes with synthetic. and while it may take a quart of new oil to get the old oil out, it isn't holding a qt of old oil back.

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-03-2013, 11:25 AM
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When using oil scavenger, it will take a quart to a quart and a half of fresh oil to flush the system. It's very easy to use. I would compare using the oil scavenger to changing the transmission fluid in your vehicle. Either you drop the transmission oil pan and drain the fluid or have your transmission fluid completely flushed so the entire system is clear and has new fluid. You will be amazed how much dirty oil is still left in there. I admitt everyone has their own opinion about doing this, but I personally feel better knowing that the engine's motor oil is totally changed and fresh. So a total of 10 qts. for both bikes should be enough. Also stick with the Redline products, especially the primary and the transmission, you won't be disappointed.

Last edited by inferno1976; 07-03-2013 at 11:39 AM.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-03-2013, 04:11 PM
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Redline all the way

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-03-2013, 04:14 PM
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I don't like Shock Proof. When I pulled apart the tranny on my softail the main bearing was so gummed up with the shockproof. I run 75W90 Mobil 1 gear oil or just regular old Drag Specialties tranny oil.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-03-2013, 07:46 PM
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I use Mobil Syn in the engine. Redline in the Trans and Primary. I change the gasket every time. I use a K and N oil filter (has the easy off nut) and I also use the scavenger system. I also change the plugs when I do a fluid change. I run mostly highway miles only and sometimes stretch my oil changes to 7,000 miles.


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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-04-2013, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minivend View Post
I change the gasket every time.

I also change the plugs when I do a fluid change.
any reason why or just cause? i used to change the plugs at every oil change on my sporty but it was carbed and would usually get fouled by then anyway. on the new efi, manual specs 25k as change interval. i changed mine at 30k and they still looked good.

as far as the primary gasket, do you use the quad ring or the pancake gasket? i use the quad ring and have done over 40k worth of oil changes with the same one.

I understand the concept of reality, but find it too confining for a way of life.

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