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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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2015 FLTRUSE CVO Coolant pump

My 2015 CVO Coolant pump is bad, throwing a code for a bad pump. I just got home from Daytona where I put 800 miles on the bike with the check engine light on as well as the coolant temp light. took it to Bruce R. HD in daytone and the tech told me needed a new coolant pump, they wanted 1100 bucks!!!! I told them no thanks and continued to ride it, it's an air cooled motor right. Does anyone know of a delete for that system? Does anyone know how to sequence thru the codes on the ecm? the tech showed me how to bring up the codes just not sequence thru them. and lastly, has anyone replaced the pump on their own with out paying harley 1100 bucks? Thanks


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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 07:30 PM
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From my understanding you canít go without the water coolant system. As a matter of fact, H-D now says you shouldnít ride more than 50 miles if itís out.
You could possibly have a cracked head.

There is a new pump for our bikes now. Itís better and a little cheaper as well. So if you put a new one on, be sure you get it. No sense in going back with one you know will go bad.

That dealer was a little high imo. I was on the road when mine went out and it was only about $800. Cost me only $50 since I had ESP.


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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 07:46 PM
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Before you shell out $$$ for a pump, replace the fuse for the cooling fan....even if it looks good.

I had the same idiot lights come on while on a trip to Utah last year and codes, though I don’t recall specifically which codes. As I recall, there is no code specific to the pump, but rather symptom codes that could indicate low coolant level, a bad pump, cooling fan, or both. I was 150 miles away from three dealers and the service advisor told me to try replacing the fuse. If that didn’t solve the problem, disconnect the leads to the pump (located under the chrome cover just behind the front tire) and ride it in. He said as long as air is flowing over the heads (e.g., no parade speed), no additional damage would be incurred.

Fortunately, the fuse did the trick. But I have no doubt that if I’d of traveled to any dealership, the pump would have been replaced immediately. I haven’t had a problem since, but now keep spare fuses in the tool bag!

P.S. I have your same year/model/color bike.

Some folks seek the comfort of the straight and narrow. Me? I prefer the twisted road.

Last edited by RoadTrip; 03-11-2019 at 07:50 PM.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 07:57 PM
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From what I've read, BR in Daytona is not the place to get anything fixed that's coming out of your pocket, especially during Bike Week. I have the same bike only in the best color, mine went out back in '16 with only 14k on the engine. Factory warranty covered it. I haven't had an issue since. I carry ESP on the CVO for reasons such as this (well, that and that lifter thing too).
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 09:40 PM
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Did any of yalls bikes puke antifreeze during the issue?
Mine did.
Pump failure caused thermostat to go out as well (or vice versa).


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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 07:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvereagle50 View Post
Did any of yalls bikes puke antifreeze during the issue?
Mine did.
Pump failure caused thermostat to go out as well (or vice versa).


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No, coolant levels were the first thing I checked and they were fine.

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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 11:31 AM
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You shouldn't ride it without the coolant pump functioning. It "can" do damage to the heads.

Real world, over 30 in cool weather, it should be fine. But sitting in traffic would prolly not be advisable.

With that said, the upgraded pump kit is like $255. Put it on yourself or buy the kit and hand it off to an indy.

I've seen two scooters were the dealers billed for the old high dollar pump and the scooters have the new less expensive pump installed.
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mach65 View Post
My 2015 CVO Coolant pump is bad, throwing a code for a bad pump. I just got home from Daytona where I put 800 miles on the bike with the check engine light on as well as the coolant temp light. took it to Bruce R. HD in daytone and the tech told me needed a new coolant pump, they wanted 1100 bucks!!!! I told them no thanks and continued to ride it, it's an air cooled motor right. Does anyone know of a delete for that system? Does anyone know how to sequence thru the codes on the ecm? the tech showed me how to bring up the codes just not sequence thru them. and lastly, has anyone replaced the pump on their own with out paying harley 1100 bucks? Thanks
Mach65, do a search on here, someone took their pump apart and soldered a couple of terminals, this fixed their pump. Iíll see if I can find this also, the repair looked fairly easy. Maybe someone else will chime in about this repair. flhman
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 05:55 PM
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Here is my thread on fixing the older pumps. Maybe you'll get lucky...

https://www.roadglide.org/201-fluids...lots-pics.html


But, the new pump system is only ~ $300, so find a different dealer to do the work if you can't. There is no "delete" kit for it, and if you read my thread you'll see you can't just keep riding without it...if you do your risking expensive damage.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvereagle50 View Post
From my understanding you canít go without the water coolant system. As a matter of fact, H-D now says you shouldnít ride more than 50 miles if itís out.
You could possibly have a cracked head.

There is a new pump for our bikes now. Itís better and a little cheaper as well. So if you put a new one on, be sure you get it. No sense in going back with one you know will go bad.

That dealer was a little high imo. I was on the road when mine went out and it was only about $800. Cost me only $50 since I had ESP.


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Not sure how to tell if I cracked the head, but i rode the piss out of her all the way home yesterday and temps reached 91 degrees outside, she ran strong the entire 300 plus miles home, guess we will see....

Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadTrip View Post
Before you shell out $$$ for a pump, replace the fuse for the cooling fan....even if it looks good.

I had the same idiot lights come on while on a trip to Utah last year and codes, though I donít recall specifically which codes. As I recall, there is no code specific to the pump, but rather symptom codes that could indicate low coolant level, a bad pump, cooling fan, or both. I was 150 miles away from three dealers and the service advisor told me to try replacing the fuse. If that didnít solve the problem, disconnect the leads to the pump (located under the chrome cover just behind the front tire) and ride it in. He said as long as air is flowing over the heads (e.g., no parade speed), no additional damage would be incurred.

Fortunately, the fuse did the trick. But I have no doubt that if Iíd of traveled to any dealership, the pump would have been replaced immediately. I havenít had a problem since, but now keep spare fuses in the tool bag!

P.S. I have your same year/model/color bike.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thermodyne View Post
You shouldn't ride it without the coolant pump functioning. It "can" do damage to the heads.

Real world, over 30 in cool weather, it should be fine. But sitting in traffic would prolly not be advisable.

With that said, the upgraded pump kit is like $255. Put it on yourself or buy the kit and hand it off to an indy.

I've seen two scooters were the dealers billed for the old high dollar pump and the scooters have the new less expensive pump installed.
Where can I get the new updated pump? I definitely gonna tear into it this weekend and see about repairing the original pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kennyd View Post
Here is my thread on fixing the older pumps. Maybe you'll get lucky...

https://www.roadglide.org/201-fluids...lots-pics.html


But, the new pump system is only ~ $300, so find a different dealer to do the work if you can't. There is no "delete" kit for it, and if you read my thread you'll see you can't just keep riding without it...if you do your risking expensive damage.
I'll fix the old pump or replace it if I can't fix it, any idea how to clear the codes once the pump is repaired or replaced? Thanks everyone for all of your feed back!! I post again after I fix her........


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