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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-03-2014, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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2011 RGU 103 Map help needed

Looking for a little advice on my '11 RGU 103, I just had my Cam Chest Kit installed, decided to go with the Fueling 574 (kit included billet cam base plate, lifters, bearings, pushrods, high flo billet oil pump, gaskets, orings & all ARP hardware), I've got Rush ceramic head pipes, Rinehart true dual mufflers with high flo baffles, Big Sucker ac, SERT.

I'm very happy with the new found power but at idle the RPM's want to dip below 1000, making the engine seem like its going to stall. I'm curious if anyone has or know of a MAP which would be best for my setup, or should I use the smart tune and let it try to work itself out?

Thanks in advance


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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-06-2014, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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any info will help....


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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-07-2014, 12:36 AM
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Idle

Can you adjust the idle with a sert i have a thundermax i set the idle at 850 rpm per the specs of the map


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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-07-2014, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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had to set the idle about 1100 rpms just to keep it running at idle. runs great out on the road but it wants to surge when idling between 1300 & 950 rpms. also have an intermittent backfire, as i'm coming out of a corner and start to take off again.

not too familiar with tuning it myself so i'm a little reluctant to start screwing with stuf.


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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 11:51 AM
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If you want to do it yourself I would get a thundermax. Either that or take it to have it dynoed and adjusted. The cam may be to big without any head work done. The engine is air starved is what it sounds like. Maybe a boysen air turbine insert will help or a different air cleaner. Round cleaners don't get a whole lot of clean cold air. Long winded but I hope it helps


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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 12:39 PM
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There isn't no difference in airflow between a round K&N style air filter and a big sucker style K&N air filter like you have. Try the smart tune you have nothing to lose.
Looking at the Fueling 574 cam specs it looks like the cam is a little big for a stock compression build and a higher compression build would be better.
You can still use the 574 but you would need a good tune to take care of your issues and a dyno tune would be the best option.
With any build with a compression ratio 10 to 1 and under any cam lift over .550/.555 is not going to be beneficial.
A user friendly tuner such as a T-max or Power Vision may be a better option too.
On my T-max tuner I set my idle at 976 RPMs, a higher idle is better for the charging system that is why HD sets the idle at 1100 RPMs.


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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-27-2014, 01:08 AM
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You've went this far, paid for a late model bike, upgraded the engine with additional money. I don't understand skimping on a dyno tune? It's a drop in the bucket compared to the grand total spent and if the engine isn't getting what it wants not to mention, needs to be happy and have an opportunity to live a long life, what's the point? No replacement for a dyno tune by a competent dyno tuner with a flash tuner. It can pay off in spades for life of the engine and definitely the fun factor and linear power if all the components play well together and the dyno operator knows what he's doing AND is willing to spend the time doing it. The tune is the most critical component. Why skimp on the most important factor of the way the engine performs??
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-27-2014, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by INDY #1 View Post
You've went this far, paid for a late model bike, upgraded the engine with additional money. I don't understand skimping on a dyno tune? It's a drop in the bucket compared to the grand total spent and if the engine isn't getting what it wants not to mention, needs to be happy and have an opportunity to live a long life, what's the point? No replacement for a dyno tune by a competent dyno tuner with a flash tuner. It can pay off in spades for life of the engine and definitely the fun factor and linear power if all the components play well together and the dyno operator knows what he's doing AND is willing to spend the time doing it. The tune is the most critical component. Why skimp on the most important factor of the way the engine performs??
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