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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-08-2012, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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Gotta Wobble

I have my 05 RG with 27K. And a bad wobble that makes a shake at low speeds with light touch on bars a tight grip and no issue, smoothes out over 50. I have that goofy one sided front cannister crap in forks. probably gonna go progressive mono tubes. Also been told that because of milage my swing arm bearings could need changing. any input ? Also looking at touring link as well. Any ideas would be greatfully appreciated.
Be Well, Ride Safe, And thanks for the help.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-08-2012, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangoutcast View Post
I have my 05 RG with 27K. And a bad wobble that makes a shake at low speeds with light touch on bars a tight grip and no issue, smoothes out over 50. I have that goofy one sided front cannister crap in forks. probably gonna go progressive mono tubes. Also been told that because of milage my swing arm bearings could need changing. any input ? Also looking at touring link as well. Any ideas would be greatfully appreciated.
Be Well, Ride Safe, And thanks for the help.
Pull yours wheels off and check your wheel bearings.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-09-2012, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
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Pull yours wheels off and check your wheel bearings.
X2..............

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-09-2012, 12:32 AM
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x3.... That's what caused the wobble in mine.

2005 FLTR - 97" S&S Big Bore, Hillside Cycle Stage II Heads & Throttle Body Upgrades, S&S Rollers, Fueling Pump & Lifters, 570G Gear Drive, TTS, CFR's, Klock Werks Double Back, 104hp/106ftlbs. CB's Euro, PM Light Glide LED Kit, RC CZar Wheels
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-09-2012, 04:28 AM
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I agree with all the above, and the monotube will definitely give you a better ride.

2010 FLTRX With Plenty of extras, goes by the name "Hardeshia"
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-09-2012, 10:45 AM
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With 27,000 miles it may just be that the front tire needs to be changed, while you are replacing the front tire you can check the bearings. I would doubt that the rear swing arm bushing is bad with the mileage on your bike but you should check it anyways because the rubber could dry rot and crack. The touring link is a great upgrade to do (I have one on my bike) on your bike but it is designed to eliminate the "Bagger Wobble" that the earlier touring bike may have when in a high speed curve, the touring link only stabilizes the rear swing arm and it would not help eliminate a wobble that originates from the front end. I usually get some low speed wobble from the front end when my front tire is ready to be changed.


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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-09-2012, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for input will check this weekend, will keep posted
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-09-2012, 05:13 PM
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A first step is to check the torque on the steering head. My 2011 shark had a real tank slapping wobble in the front end at around 35 mph until they adjusted the steering torque properly. I had no issue at higher or lower speeds. The steering is expected to make so many side to side moves when it is adjusted properly and you just release the bars. Mine was doing more than twice the number of side to side moves compared to the adjustment spec. If you have the maintenance manual, check that torque first. If not, go ask that they do it for you for a fairly small cost. I had my bike back after the warranty adjustment in about 30 minutes so the labor has to be a small charge.

Added equipment was a stage 1 HD air cleaner, a Cee Baileys windshield and a turn out boot heel guard. I also went with the BAL1 tail light MOD. You can never be too safe with lighting. Now I am riding a Vision with minor mods to give me this.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-17-2012, 02:48 PM
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Road Glides are known for both fall-away and wheel bearing issues. Check fall-away first.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-17-2012, 03:04 PM
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Steering head check x 1,000! Search the forum for many thread about this.

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check out my build thread for pix and mods
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