Replaced front springs on ¯16 RGU - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-05-2018, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Replaced front springs on ‘16 RGU

Got the springs kit from progressive



Started removing the IGN switch and using the JIMS tools to unlock the handlebar



By removing the nut and the collar under the IGN switch, I was able to remove the instrument bezel without messing up with the “horseshoe”





Once put the leg in the jaws with a support by JIMS, I opened the cap (got the “jack in the box” effect, tourings are far more preloaded than dynas, where I had experience with)



See the difference between springs, the left is the progressive one, the right one is the HD one. The progressive is surely far more efficient by default......



Settled the oil level as instructed by progressive



Put the cap back on, to overcome the preload I had to use a ratchet sling in a creative way......



Put then everything back in smoothly, I have to say the original maintenance manual is a “must have” to do everything properly.
It took 6 hours, but I did everything step by step by the book and without having to get back on anything.




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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-05-2018, 03:49 PM
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Nicely done! Post up your results on how they feel when you get some miles on. Enjoy the ride!

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-05-2018, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beaver View Post
Got the springs kit from progressive



Started removing the IGN switch and using the JIMS tools to unlock the handlebar



By removing the nut and the collar under the IGN switch, I was able to remove the instrument bezel without messing up with the “horseshoe”





Once put the leg in the jaws with a support by JIMS, I opened the cap (got the “jack in the box” effect, tourings are far more preloaded than dynas, where I had experience with)



See the difference between springs, the left is the progressive one, the right one is the HD one. The progressive is surely far more efficient by default......



Settled the oil level as instructed by progressive



Put the cap back on, to overcome the preload I had to use a ratchet sling in a creative way......



Put then everything back in smoothly, I have to say the original maintenance manual is a “must have” to do everything properly.
It took 6 hours, but I did everything step by step by the book and without having to get back on anything.




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You made it look easy. Please post the results as I am trying to get a "softer" ride.


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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-05-2018, 09:33 PM
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Please let us know how much of a difference they make. Thanks.


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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-12-2018, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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Rode roughly 200 miles today, mostly mountain roads and some highway
The mix of new springs and the 15w oil came out to be a good job, no cons, just pro:
  • No more “diving” on brakes, the front smoothly go down without having to expect to hit the bottom
  • more precision in the turns, I have the progressive 490 heavy duty in the back and the softer front was not giving confidence due to the different behavior with the stiffer back. Now everything feels tuned and the bike is like on roadtrack
  • comfort; still great, I need heavy duty in the back because I’m 250 myself and I ride a lot with the ol’lady, the front instead did not need to be so strong but only a little more solid. Now I have the perfect match, tested on highway and confirmed on several town’s speed bumps.
  • price; progressive list the springs kit at roughly 110$ VS. the 500$ needed for the monotube. The springs kit has a lot of “value for money” in my view.

In the end, if you are on budget and in search of improvement solutions for your front end, you will not be disappointed by this kit
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Last edited by Beaver; 05-13-2018 at 05:01 AM.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-12-2018, 05:02 PM
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Very nice report, good information! Glad you have the results you were seeking.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 07:35 AM
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Thanks for the update. I was also looking at the 2 different ways to go. I believe I will go with the spring kit also. Great write up


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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 07:40 AM
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Thanks. Just what I wanted to know. I believe I will go the spring route also.


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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-15-2018, 09:25 PM
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Great job! As I understand, you did not have to disassemble lower legs or drain screw. You just swapped springs with new oil, right? What weigh of fork oil did you use? Thanks for posting this, sorry for so many questions.


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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 02:31 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riderdave View Post
Great job! As I understand, you did not have to disassemble lower legs or drain screw. You just swapped springs with new oil, right? What weigh of fork oil did you use? Thanks for posting this, sorry for so many questions.

As you said I did not disassemble the leg, I simply removed the cap and discharged the oil from there, moving the leg up and down a dozen times to be sure all the oil was discharged.
The stock suspension oil is a 10w type, I used a 15w instead to increase rigidity a little.
As said, it is important to have a good supporting tool on the vice while doing the job. The preload is quite strong to be won and I had to use a sling to win it.
No problem answering questions, we write on forums to share experiences and to make quality talking on motorcycling.
Please feel free to ask more if needed


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