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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-13-2016, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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Biketronics BT355 LOC

Biketronics was finally able to get some new stock assembled on the BT355 and I received my new part last Friday. While waiting on the new BT355 to arrive I had already disassembled everything and removed the old Metra LOC and last night had a chance to install the new BT355.

Since I was using a new LOC I figured I'd pull out the trusty TPI 440 Plus oscilloscope, start at the head unit and work my way back to the AMP again to make sure that my gains were properly set.

With HU volume set to 13 of 17 sine wave looked good from the HU to the BT355.

With the HU volume set to 13 of 17 and leaving the BT355 at the default gain and HPF settings (as delivered) sine wave coming out of the RCA jacks of the BT355 looked good as well. However, one thing I noticed was the voltage output on the BT355 RCA jacks seemed low to me. At the default gain and HPF settings of the BT355 the RCA out jacks were delivering 1.107V +/-

I'm wondering if that is the nominal designed / intended output voltage or if my BT355 is faulty? I turned both channel gain settings on the BT355 to the maximum setting and the voltage increased to just a bit over 2.0V

I was expecting the output voltage to be around 2.0V at nominal settings, and 3-4V at maximum settings.

Has anyone here measured the output voltage of the RCA jacks on your BT355 with the HU set at 13 of 17 and the gain settings on the BT355 at the factory setting? And if so what were your readings?

Other than that, the BT355 seems to function OK however the left channel RCA jack was SERIOUSLY out of alignment with the case and it was a real booger getting the RCA cable firmly attached on that side. The thing seems to get pretty warm as well when running the HU at volume 13.


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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-13-2016, 08:57 AM
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I didn't test mine but I have another BT355 enroute for my lowers, I can take the fairing off and check this weekend if that helps.

Oh and I'm not sure the max output on our stock 6.5 Infotainment but pretty sure it won't be 4v, or is it? Never tested that either
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-18-2016, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bunker View Post
I didn't test mine but I have another BT355 enroute for my lowers, I can take the fairing off and check this weekend if that helps.

Oh and I'm not sure the max output on our stock 6.5 Infotainment but pretty sure it won't be 4v, or is it? Never tested that either
That would be great. Thank you.

I think our stock head unit puts out 25W (I'll have to do the VAC conversion )


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Last edited by wevsspot; 01-23-2016 at 08:35 AM.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-01-2016, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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There are a few fairly active threads that include information about the BT355 over at another forum. But for the sake of saving you some time searching I'm going to point out a few observations;

1. The BT355 is a good solution for those needing to use a Line Out Converter from their head unit to their AMP. There are other options, but considering the size, relative expense and user experience with the BT355 it is a solid choice.

2. When you receive your BT355 LOC be sure to check the factory adjustments for gain and HPF. At least one user received a new BT355 and one of the three adjustments was way off. The BT355's have marks for the default factory set location and those should always be your starting point.

3. The RCA output voltage as delivered from BT appears to be very conservative. Based on experiences in the other forum, it is safe to increase the gain setting a bit on both channels without introducing distortion, but you will get higher volume from your speakers. When adjusting the BT355 gain, some of us have maxed the radio volume (17 clicks) and set the output voltage from the BT355 to 2.0V. That seems to be a pretty good compromise. On my BT355 that corresponds to somewhere between 1 and 2 o'clock on the settings dial.

4. If you are pairing an AMP with adjustable gains, it would be a good idea to reset your AMP gains after messing with the gain control on the BT355.

5. If you are using a 1kHz test tone to set AMP gains with a multimeter (based on voltage) or an oscilloscope (based on SINE wave) the BT355 may get a bit warm or even hot depending on how long you are pushing the 1kHz test tone through it. According to BT this shouldn't be an issue and I can confirm that in at least two instances that it wasn't anything to worry about. Now I wouldn't recommend doing this for hours on end, but it doesn't take long to get the gains set correctly

6. Most users have left the frequency settings alone, but they are there if you want to experiment.

7. If your AMP has adjustable frequency settings i.e. HPF, AP, LP the standard recommendation is to set the AMP to AP (sometimes referred to as "Full" or "All Pass")
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Last edited by wevsspot; 02-01-2016 at 11:11 AM.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-03-2016, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wevsspot View Post
Now I wouldn't recommend doing this for hours on end
thats what this is for. :-)

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-03-2016, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wevsspot View Post
There are a few fairly active threads that include information about the BT355 over at another forum. But for the sake of saving you some time searching I'm going to point out a few observations;

1. The BT355 is a good solution for those needing to use a Line Out Converter from their head unit to their AMP. There are other options, but considering the size, relative expense and user experience with the BT355 it is a solid choice.

2. When you receive your BT355 LOC be sure to check the factory adjustments for gain and HPF. At least one user received a new BT355 and one of the three adjustments was way off. The BT355's have marks for the default factory set location and those should always be your starting point.

3. The RCA output voltage as delivered from BT appears to be very conservative. Based on experiences in the other forum, it is safe to increase the gain setting a bit on both channels without introducing distortion, but you will get higher volume from your speakers. When adjusting the BT355 gain, some of us have maxed the radio volume (17 clicks) and set the output voltage from the BT355 to 2.0V. That seems to be a pretty good compromise. On my BT355 that corresponds to somewhere between 1 and 2 o'clock on the settings dial.

4. If you are pairing an AMP with adjustable gains, it would be a good idea to reset your AMP gains after messing with the gain control on the BT355.

5. If you are using a 1kHz test tone to set AMP gains with a multimeter (based on voltage) or an oscilloscope (based on SINE wave) the BT355 may get a bit warm or even hot depending on how long you are pushing the 1kHz test tone through it. According to BT this shouldn't be an issue and I can confirm that in at least two instances that it wasn't anything to worry about. Now I wouldn't recommend doing this for hours on end, but it doesn't take long to get the gains set correctly

6. Most users have left the frequency settings alone, but they are there if you want to experiment.

7. If your AMP has adjustable frequency settings i.e. HPF, AP, LP the standard recommendation is to set the AMP to AP (sometimes referred to as "Full" or "All Pass")

damn good info by the way.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-03-2016, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks UN. Hey, since I've got you engaged here............

What are your thoughts on using -dB test tones when setting gains with an oscilloscope?

There are raging arguments around the world on the subject


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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-03-2016, 05:06 PM
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Thanks UN. Hey, since I've got you engaged here............

What are your thoughts on using -dB test tones when setting gains with an oscilloscope?

There are raging arguments around the world on the subject
ya know wevsspot, that subject has been beat to death and reminds me of which oil, clutch, or exhaust is better threads. Just gets old from my perspective which is why I don't usually bother participating in those types of threads.

I do what I've done for years in building SQ and SP level systems back in the day. Use of the correct tones for the correct setup will always achieve the optimum results, however where a lot of folks on these bikes fall short in their understanding is simply the fact that they are motorcycles. I don't care what test tone you use, what frequency, what -db level, etc. It's going to sound good at one point then sound like crap at another. I myself would pay more attention to it if I was building a SQ setup using scopes, waveform generators, spectrum analyzers, with a Helix DSP in a car. Bikes, ah.. too open, too many uncontrolled ambient noises to worry about this at such a granular level. I run with 0db tones at varying frequencies when adjusting these setups. And to be honest, I do the majority of it by ear now. If I'm doing a high end setup then I'll break out scopes and waveform generators.

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