Speaker wiring quick reference - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 12:47 AM Thread Starter
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Speaker wiring quick reference

Much thought and process has been discusses regarding the stock
factory speaker wires, where they're found and what colors, so on,
since my search button never finds the info quick enough, I thought
I would repost some of the data for reference.

this is for the current "Infotainment" system models ( classic radio )

reference Touring Models manual page B-26 pullout towards the back.

most people directly access front speaker outputs by removing the wires
from the speakers themselves. there was an error found on page B-26 so bear with me,
maybe the reason so many peoples radios have died an untimely death.

Front speakers
small connector on the back of the radio, already plugged in on custom
models, pins listed from right to left, up then down~,
1 RT front negative - LGN/BK
16 LFT front positive + W/O
17 LFT front negative - LGN/W
18 RT front positive + GY/R

Rear speakers
larger connector on the back of the radio, referred to as the unused connector
or 35 pin connector, it's number labeling system is the same
1 RT rear positive + GN
2 LFT rear positive - BN
24 RT rear negative - LGN/BN
25 LFT rear negative - W/BN

it's not necessary to make a rear speaker connector, the pins are already hot and a properly insulated molex pin can be
pushed on to access those wires, or connector purchased and mini DIY harness made.

please feel free to help me add the p/n's update this or make corrections,
goal being a reliable SPEAKER WIRING QUICK REFERENCE

wiring harness connector parts related to classic radio found here, at namz customs

on to the error found: on section 34A/34B

the manual shows the RT front speaker as being wired backwards, I've stated it, others have said it, but it's worth noting, you should more than likely correct that error or you will have some issues, whether you are installing $50 upgrade speaker or $2800 fantasy kit you saw at a bike show. mine and several other radios have died in the process and if you are out of the 10k mi warranty range it might be costly.

so those are the codes and colors and locations

2010 FLTRX- r o a d g l i d e

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Last edited by h-donut; 02-22-2013 at 11:51 AM.
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 10:54 AM
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mmmm donut: Which wires do I tap into to connect my PBR 300x2 I am really bad at this.


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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 11:02 AM
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Very nice job! How bout a pic of the rear connector on the HK where the rear speakers plug into?

You're right, you don't actually need the connector, you can improvise; just insulate the wires and plug directly into the outputs on the back of the HK.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by watsondog View Post
mmmm donut: Which wires do I tap into to connect my PBR 300x2 I am really bad at this.
Follow the manual, is my advice.

The output side of the amp goes to your speakers, the input side comes from the head unit. I have the same amp and used my stock HK head unit.

On the input side, I had to cut the RCA cables (that came with the amp) and solder/ heat shrink it to speaker wires. Then connect it to the head unit.

On the output side, the amp comes with the connector with wires cut already. You just have to solder/heat shrink to speaker wire. Then connect to speakers.

And don't forget power and ground wires. I didn't connect the REM. At one point I did and the whole stereo system wouldn't turn off when I shut the bike off I had to push the power button on the head unit to turn everything off!

That's how I wired my saddlebag speakers, works fine so far...
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 11:40 AM
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Thanks ENG25 & donut ...I'm sure it will make more sense when I am standing in front of it....


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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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watson dog

PBR300x2 and 4 speakers all in the front fairing, should be good.

if you don't want to cut your RCA's you could substitute a 4 pin motherboard molex jumper, save your RCA for later, or 4 pin extension or remove the 4 pin connector from an old computer power supply that has died. it's the little piece that plugs in to the 4v or 7v side of the motherboard, same size as the rockford amps you have.

biggest note is both light green wires are negative front only, even though they may not be wired that way

even throw a meter on it

here's a pic of the 4 pin connector



if soldering is not your thing, you could try marine terminal blocks, since you
are doing parallel wiringblue sea 2502

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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by watsondog View Post
mmmm donut: Which wires do I tap into to connect my PBR 300x2 I am really bad at this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by h-donut View Post
most people directly access front speaker outputs by removing the wires
from the speakers themselves.

Front speakers
RT front negative - LGN/BK
LFT front positive + W/O
LFT front negative - LGN/W
RT front positive + GY/R
both light green wires coming from the stock speakers are supposed to be negative connections for the front

2010 FLTRX- r o a d g l i d e

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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 01:45 PM
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All great ideas. But soldering ain't so bad. If you plan on doing a lot of work on your bike over the years, it's good to learn to solder. Just like taking off the fairing or the gas tank. It seems tedious but actually pretty easy.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ENG25TRK View Post
All great ideas. But soldering ain't so bad. If you plan on doing a lot of work on your bike over the years, it's good to learn to solder. Just like taking off the fairing or the gas tank. It seems tedious but actually pretty easy.
looks like I'll have some updates to make a little later

agreed 100% there, soldering is one of those things you can easily forget also.

basically when soldering, I always attempt to get a one drop of solder connections, too much and it can cause interference or line noise.

less is more but do it right

dorman makes a nice multi pack of heat shrink, $9 at auto zone but worth it, has a nice organizer case.

there are also different types of "butts" the favorite of my old shop was the
"V' where you "V" out and FLATTEN about 1/4" of the wire then solder. WRAP
and SEAL from both sides, then add the extra piece.

I use a 25w iron with a point tip, thermostatic stands are awesome, weller is my favorite brand

I also put my wires in a set of quick clamps, on a roller table or tall box if Ican't work on the bench. so I have a free hand to support the wires as the bead goes in.

2010 FLTRX- r o a d g l i d e

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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 02:17 PM
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good deal, great info I am going to tackle it tonight.


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21" Colorado Custom Slammer 5
Mean City heated seat
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Cams & Dyno soon to come
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