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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-27-2013, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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Newb willing to install 2 PBR300X4

I admit I have no idea about installing and setting up a complete new audio system, but with your guidance, I will get it completed. I will install a JVC Arsenal KD A-95BT in-dash with 2 RF 300X4 amps. At first, I will have the amps in 2 channel mode to run 4 speakers in the inner fairing; provides growth for additional 4 more speakers (lids / lowers). I get lost when trying to figure out what wiring/additional equipment I need for the install. Once wired, I have no idea how to set up the amp, but I'll worry about that after just getting past the install.

1. I think I need a distribution block, but don't know which one I need. I've seen fused, not fused, and different gauge wiring size in and out.

2. What gauge wires do I need? I've read 8 GA from battery to block, then 10 GA from block to amps. Just not sure.

3. Do I need fused wire if the distribution block is already fused, or vice versa? Is one way better than the other?

Thanks for the help

V/r

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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-27-2013, 11:24 PM
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Re: Newb willing to install 2 PBR300X4

If you haven't already purchased the amps, I would go with the 300×2 instead of the 300×4, more adjustable and just a better amp IMO. Running an 8 guage wire is fine. I ran 8 guage with the fuse under the seat, it goes to the faring, there I have a 1-4 to 4-8 wire distribution block, I just use one side, I still use 8 guage to go to the amps.

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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-28-2013, 01:03 AM
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dbell66253 is right

8 gauge is sufficient, a true spec like EFX kit from walmart, or knu concepts on amazon, the two kits on amazon are tin over alum and copper over alum.

the copper one is more expensive, both are good each under $30

most single amp kits have a 60 amp fuse included, plastic barrel type, I bought the lightning audio dual fuse block from ebay, $9 with 4 fuses, got 2 30 amp and 2 40 amp.

I have my fuse under my seat, went 4 ga to 8ga x2, I think the 4 ga was overkill, it's only a one foot run, everything else is 8ga

I grounded to my frame, sometimes people prefer grounding back to the battery

+1

PBR300x2, 2 channel is a better amp, I have 4 front speakers hooked up to one and it's very clean and loud, I had the PBR300x4, it was harder to fine tune, or damn near impossible to find the breakup points

that's just because rockford came out with the PBR300x4 first

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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-28-2013, 06:20 AM
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Newb willing to install 2 PBR300X4

If you've never installed an amp before, I would opt for a more plug and play type setup. With the RF, you're going to be splicing wires unless you have all of the little connectors and the skills to install them correctly. I haven't seen an installation kit for the RF yet that makes the connections for you without cutting wires.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-28-2013, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMSgt B View Post
I admit I have no idea about installing and setting up a complete new audio system, but with your guidance, I will get it completed. I will install a JVC Arsenal KD A-95BT in-dash with 2 RF 300X4 amps. At first, I will have the amps in 2 channel mode to run 4 speakers in the inner fairing; provides growth for additional 4 more speakers (lids / lowers). I get lost when trying to figure out what wiring/additional equipment I need for the install. Once wired, I have no idea how to set up the amp, but I'll worry about that after just getting past the install.

1. I think I need a distribution block, but don't know which one I need. I've seen fused, not fused, and different gauge wiring size in and out.

2. What gauge wires do I need? I've read 8 GA from battery to block, then 10 GA from block to amps. Just not sure.

3. Do I need fused wire if the distribution block is already fused, or vice versa? Is one way better than the other?

Thanks for the help

V/r
do yourself a favor and forget that you ever knew that PBR300x4 part # existed. There is much better to be had for about the same $ and I'm specifically speaking of the Soundstream PN4.520D. Provides the same configuration options with the 1 MAJOR exception that the SS is 2 ohm stable and the RF is not (4 channel). Couple that with 520w of nice clean Class D power that won't tax your stock charging system. SS amps run cool to the touch.

1. You don't need a distribution block. Simply run 2 seperate 10ga solid strand power wires to your battery, fuse each one independently AT THE BATTERY for your situation. The SS, use 30A fuses.

2. 10ga solid strand wire you can pick up at AutoZone is perfect. You can get the fuse holders there too.

3. See 1 and 2 above.

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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-28-2013, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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All,

Thanks for the guidance so far and it seems I should have waited to purchase other amps, but I've had these amps sitting in the garage since they first came out. So I might as well use them.

So either I can block it or just run 2 separate lines from the battery. Make sure I fuse at the battery.

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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-28-2013, 07:39 PM
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I'll try and help

30amp fuses or better to each amp, so fused distribution block

where you place fuse block is up to you.

more accessible under the seat,

less cable to run if placed under fairing

I have one PAIR of amp mounts if you need them

Will have more soon, have been working on another project.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-28-2013, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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I'll try and help

30amp fuses or better to each amp, so fused distribution block

where you place fuse block is up to you.

more accessible under the seat,

less cable to run if placed under fairing

I have one PAIR of amp mounts if you need them

Will have more soon, have been working on another project.
Understand and thanks for the help. Also, I already have a pair of your amp mounts for the install.

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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-28-2013, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by UltraNutZ View Post
do yourself a favor and forget that you ever knew that PBR300x4 part # existed. There is much better to be had for about the same $ and I'm specifically speaking of the Soundstream PN4.520D. Provides the same configuration options with the 1 MAJOR exception that the SS is 2 ohm stable and the RF is not (4 channel). Couple that with 520w of nice clean Class D power that won't tax your stock charging system. SS amps run cool to the touch.

1. You don't need a distribution block. Simply run 2 seperate 10ga solid strand power wires to your battery, fuse each one independently AT THE BATTERY for your situation. The SS, use 30A fuses.

2. 10ga solid strand wire you can pick up at AutoZone is perfect. You can get the fuse holders there too.

3. See 1 and 2 above.
How much better are the Soundstream amps? Are they easier to tune and mount? Im upgrading my system too and im in the market for a decent amp
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-28-2013, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by SMSgt B View Post
Understand and thanks for the help. Also, I already have a pair of your amp mounts for the install.
you ordered your brackets on 10/25/2012 7:16p 16th person to order

brackets #22 and #23, left and right side, so sorry, and I appreciate your support

I have cabin fever I guess, no disrespect meant or intended

do you have adaptor rings and speakers yet?

I enjoyed most of my install except the soldering, good adapter rings help

I fought with the throttle up rings and got a little frustrated with the speaker output soldering

doing my bars the last couple days, soldering is getting easier

here's where I put my fuse block



then made an side mount ring terminal



^^^^^^^ above ^^^^^^^^^^

I did have to cut my battery box top cover on the positive side, you can just barely see it, but I removed a good portion of the corner, stuff was just getting too tight

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