Hertz MPX 165.3 Pro Install Tips - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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Hertz MPX 165.3 Pro Install Tips

I finally finished swapping out my original audio upgrade to the new stuff. My latest install consists of a Diamond Audio Micro4v2 and a pair of Hertz MPX 165.3 Pro coax speakers. Fitting the MPX 165.3 speakers into RG Rushmore pods has been hit or miss for many installers. In some instances, the MPX 165.3 coax speakers go right in without the need for spacers or otherwise modifying the pods. In other instances, the speakers don't drop all the way in and installers have opted to remove the rubber ring surrounding the speaker magnet, use speaker ring spacers or modify the pod.

I figured that I would try a one size fits all solution that should guarantee "drop in results" for everyone. This stuff compresses perfectly to allow a drop in installation and conforms to the pod/speaker ring profile for an air tight seal. Plus it's a lot cheaper than the BT speaker ring adapters.




I had a small amount of interference between the rubber surround on the magnet and one of the reinforcement ribs inside the pod. The neoprene stripping raised the speakers just enough to clear the rib and still leave plenty of room for the speaker grill tabs.


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Last edited by wevsspot; 03-26-2019 at 01:25 PM.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 11:29 AM
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I like it! When I had those speakers in my fairing I used the BT adapter rings and they worked well but I found the top of the speaker foam was rubbing the Hog Tunes grills I have. I'm going to check out your find, looks like a nice option

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 11:44 AM
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good job.

maybe it's just me, but i always get a kick out of the mfg listings. in the description, it says that a tolerance of +/- 3/8'' is acceptable. for a 1/4'' piece of stripping? thats like a 150% deviation....

I understand the concept of reality, but find it too confining for a way of life.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BH#103 View Post
.......... I used the BT adapter rings and they worked well but I found the top of the speaker foam was rubbing the Hog Tunes grills I have. I'm going to check out your find, looks like a nice option
I was originally going to go that route, and then Donna quoted me $59 on the speaker ring adapters before discount. I felt that was pretty steep for two pcs. of plastic. I ordered the roll of neoprene a few months ago as an insurance policy (just in case). Glad I did or I would have been dead in the water last Friday. The neoprene compresses down to a little over 1/16" thick and creates a perfect seal. The other cool thing is that if the rubber surround still hits the pod, the neoprene gasket is thick enough and flexible enough to create a tapered seal even with the speaker not sitting completely flat on the pod face. Just avoid over-tightening the speaker ring screws and deforming the speaker ring. In my installation the speakers fit flush all the way around with about enough room to slide a folder piece of paper between the speaker magnet and the pod.


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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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And since I'm on the topic of this latest audio installation, I should probably tell you guys that I went a little crazy with the tuning procedure as well. In past installs I've always relied on the BT355 LOC presets to get me close enough to fine tune the BT355 gain and HPF settings. Using the Cerwin Vega B2, B52 and B54 I always set the AMP to Full Pass instead of High Pass. I've tried HP on the CV AMPs before, but when using in conjunction with the filtering on the BT355 the sound was just too bright, especially at highway speed volume. I worked around this by using Full Pass on the AMP and then tuning the HPF on the BT355s to "open" up the frequency range just a little bit.

On this latest install I went against all known current convention, set the AMP to HP and then turned the BT355 HP filter down to it's minimum setting (completely counter-clockwise). Then used the HP filtering on the AMP to tone down those low frequencies that can cause distortion at the volume we need on the highway. My initial tuning was all by ear, but afterwards disconnected the speakers and put my TPI 440 o-scope to work. Using a 1kHz 0dB test tone I measured 240W coming out of the AMP (the Micro4v2 is rated at 300W bridged 4 Ohms). I may have to be careful with the volume control on the radio

Maximum un-distorted volume was achieved (6.5GT at 13 out of 17 clicks on the volume) and the Micro4v2 HP dial set almost exactly at the 12 o'clock position. The Micro4v2 installation sheet said to start the HP frequency setting at the 8-9 position and go from there. So I thought I must have really killed the 100Hz frequency by setting the HP control to the 12 o'clock position. I put my 100Hz test tone on my thumb drive and checked. To my surprise 100Hz was still audible and it was just a little lower in volume than the 1kHz test tone. The main drawback with this approach is that the bass control on the radio doesn't really add or subtract a lot to the bass frequencies.

The system sounds good with the bike running and standing still in the garage. I finished most of the work Friday night, but at around midnight the Mrs. started complaining about the noise. I hit it again Saturday morning and by the time I had everything buttoned back up the rain set it. I may have to fine tune a bit more after a few road tests, but my gut feel is that I'm close.

This system is loud. Really loud. Hope the volume and SQ pan out at road speeds.
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Last edited by wevsspot; 03-26-2019 at 02:06 PM.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 01:04 PM
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Any follow up? SQ?


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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 03:10 PM
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Thanks for the post. I will keep this in mind since I am considering upgrading my audio.
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