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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-26-2014, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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TP Paint Prep?

I picked up a used TP and it needs to be repainted. In order to help keep costs down I am doing most of the prep work myself as far as dealing with the old finish.

My question is how far do I need to go removing the old finish. Do I need to go all the way down to the surface of the original material? Or do I just need to give it a good even sanding overall? Removing any shine from the old finish?

So far I've gone over it all with 80-100-120 grit. Some areas are down to factory material where they appear to have been slightly higher. I am about to go to 200 or 400 grit and wet sanding. Should I go back a couple of grades and remove more of the old finish.

My painter is currently overseas so I can't ask him(supposed to be back end of next month).
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-26-2014, 04:54 PM
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Just get it smooth with no holes. Paint will be applied several steps down the road. Use etching primer to get your base a consistent color. Spray a leveling primer over the etching primer. Once you are satisfied with that spray a guide coat of paint to allow sanding to remove all the guide coat. The guide coat is used to show any inconsistent levels. You may need to use several applications of guide coat after leveling. Once all guide coat is removed and no low/hi spots you are ready for your painter to shoot it.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-26-2014, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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faststan, Thanks for the quick reply.
Is it acceptable for me to use an etching primer like that from Rustoleum or Krylon from rattlie cans?
For the leveling primer coats can I still use the same primer or do I go to a different primer, I.E that used before most color applications? Once again from aerosol cans. I don't have access to conventional spray equipment.
I don't want to use a product that would cause problems for the painter later on. He does a lot of motorcycle paint work and I would hate to create more work for him.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-26-2014, 08:27 PM
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Don't use the etch primer until you know what system of paint being used. Some systems will have problems with it. Go back and dry sand it with some 80 grit then prime with a 2K primer. The purpose of sanding something is to put a scratch in it to create a mechanical adhesion for the next layer of material. With you sanding it with a continually finer grit you are eliminating the scratch for the primer. After you prime it, put a light dusting of a guide coat then block sand it wet with some 400 or 500 and see where you are at. For a guide coat I just use some cheap rattle can primer of a different color.

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-27-2014, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
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FrankieB, Thanks for your input. Right now I'm thinking perhaps the best course of action for me is to just rinse it free of all the dust, wipe it dry, and let my painter handle any further prep. Sometimes the best course of action is knowing when to stop and I think this is it.

I sure don't want to do anything that will mess him up or make him have to do more work than necessary. I differently don't want to use any product that will affect the final paint.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-27-2014, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Batavia Harley View Post
FrankieB, Thanks for your input. Right now I'm thinking perhaps the best course of action for me is to just rinse it free of all the dust, wipe it dry, and let my painter handle any further prep. Sometimes the best course of action is knowing when to stop and I think this is it.

I sure don't want to do anything that will mess him up or make him have to do more work than necessary. I differently don't want to use any product that will affect the final paint.
That's usually the best course of action It seems every time I try to save some money doing it myself it ends up costing me more in the end. Now If I don't know what I'm doing and I don't have someone showing me how to do it right, I just hire someone to do it.

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