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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-19-2014, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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Tourpak needed

My Tourpak broke last night. When I opened it, the wire strap that holds it opened failed, it opened so far that is snapped off the plastic below the hinges! WTF! The pictures show the damage.

I can get just the lower section from H-D, for about $525.00 before installation!

Any suggestions?

I am looking into possibly bonding the sections back to the lower unit with some adhesive used in the boating industry.

Any and all help is appreciated

John in CT
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2011 FLTRU Fullsac Sportpipe, SE Breather/air cleaner, SEPRT Smart-tune, Corbin, Madstad 13", Gold Top Fork Emulators & Springs & JRI B shocks. 2003 XLHS

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-19-2014, 09:06 AM
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Oh that stinks! upgrading my hardware and that cable, right now. (teeth chattering)

Hope you get it figured soon and cheaply.

"Just put that hammer down and give it hell" -Jerry Reed.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-19-2014, 09:24 AM
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"I am looking into possibly bonding the sections back to the lower unit with some adhesive used in the boating industry."
Then maybe cover the lower area with that thin adhesive diamond plate which is mold-able, and paintable.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-19-2014, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by reds4 View Post
"I am looking into possibly bonding the sections back to the lower unit with some adhesive used in the boating industry."
Then maybe cover the lower area with that thin adhesive diamond plate which is mold-able, and paintable.
Interesting, where can I see that thin diamond plate?

Also, DO NOT purchase or install the retractable strap for the TourPak lid! That's what failed. I am going to use the one that came with the bike from now on!

John

2011 FLTRU Fullsac Sportpipe, SE Breather/air cleaner, SEPRT Smart-tune, Corbin, Madstad 13", Gold Top Fork Emulators & Springs & JRI B shocks. 2003 XLHS

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-19-2014, 09:59 AM
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Scoop,

That sucks, you're not the first that this failure has happened too with this mechanism.

If you order the new painted tourpak bottom from HD, i'd suggest doing the install yourself and also ordering a set of the chrome upgrade tourpak hinges.

The chrome hinges are held in place using screws instead of the rivets. They are really easy to install and will save you the labor portion of the repair bill. You will have to sum up the nerve to drill out the rivets on your old tourpak lid, it is easy to do but a little nerve wracking the first time. The instructions in the chrome hinge packaging are very good and will walk you through the proper size bits to use.

I used a variable speed drill and kept it a lower speed the first time I did one of my tourpaks and it worked our great.

Best of luck on whichever route you choose, repair or new painted part from HD.

Regards,


Caglarrglide


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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-19-2014, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by calgaryglide View Post
Scoop,

That sucks, you're not the first that this failure has happened too with this mechanism.

If you order the new painted tourpak bottom from HD, i'd suggest doing the install yourself and also ordering a set of the chrome upgrade tourpak hinges.

The chrome hinges are held in place using screws instead of the rivets. They are really easy to install and will save you the labor portion of the repair bill. You will have to sum up the nerve to drill out the rivets on your old tourpak lid, it is easy to do but a little nerve wracking the first time. The instructions in the chrome hinge packaging are very good and will walk you through the proper size bits to use.

I used a variable speed drill and kept it a lower speed the first time I did one of my tourpaks and it worked our great.

Best of luck on whichever route you choose, repair or new painted part from HD.

Regards,


Caglarrglide
Thanks Calgariride, I happen to have the Black Premium hinges ready to go! Just need either the new lower or the repair done. Meantime, I am stuck riding my Sporster! Hoo Haa! Multiple Bike Syndrome can have a benefit on occasion.

John

2011 FLTRU Fullsac Sportpipe, SE Breather/air cleaner, SEPRT Smart-tune, Corbin, Madstad 13", Gold Top Fork Emulators & Springs & JRI B shocks. 2003 XLHS

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-19-2014, 10:47 AM
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Careful with that mulitiple bike syndrome it can get out of hand fast then you have to attend meetings and 12 step program to manage the rotation of the rides.

If you were to repair the tourpak I would use some steel as a reinforcing plate on the inside, as another poster said keep it thin but not so thin that it will flex easily, it will need some rigidity to hold everything together.

Mechanical fasteners such as rivets are good but I would search out a good industrial grade epoxy that adheres to both metal and plastic. This should be available at a construction supply that does business to business not to regular household consumers.

Clean all the repair materials with a good quality cleaner/degreaser such as LPS brand electrical contact cleaner. Use enough that the cleaner/degreaser runs off of each piece removing any contamination such as oils or grease. After you have cleaned the pieces "DO NOT TOUCH THEM WITH YOUR BARE HANDS" use new clean rubber/latex/vinyl gloves to handle the repair pieces from then on. The natural oils from your sweat can contaminate the surfaces and lead to adhesion failure

You will need to prep the the surface of the metal to get a "profile" for the adhesive. The profile increases the surface area for the adhesive to bond too. Sandblasting the surface is the ideal way to create the profile, you are looking for 0.003-0.004 profile peak to valley. Grinding is second best but usually the easiest to source tool wise. Use a coarse disc move the grinder fast across the surface in several directions to create the profile, remember you are wanting a rough finish, no smooth.

Surface preparation of the plastic parts is a little more difficult because obviously the plastic is far "softer" than the steel. A coarse grinding disc used at medium speed and moved quickly across the surface will create a good profile on the plastic. If you can cross hatch the pattern on the plastic that will also help with creating the profile.

Have on hand some quick grip type clamps and something to reinforce the plastic on the outside that the clamps will be against. The reinforcing material should be as smooth as possible. Use a few light coats of Pam cooking spray onto the side of the reinforcing material to act as a release agent. Let the spray dry completely between coats. This is so that whatever reinforcing material you use does not adhere to any of the epoxy that might come out of the edges of the repair area.

Use a heat lamp or trouble light to keep the repair area at a constant temperature while the adhesive is curing. Wait the full cure time before removing any clamping or doing any sanding of excess epoxy on the outside of the tourpak.

After the full cure time, prep for filler, primer and paint to match (that short sentence in no way implies the amount of work that those 3 steps entail).


Good Luck!

Calgaryglide


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2011 Suzuki WeeStrom, Great Pumpkin, gravel rider.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-19-2014, 11:01 AM
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first off that sucks

second off , I upgraded mine with a piece of heavy picture hanging wire and a couple electrical connectors crimped to the ends

third I have a vivid black TP off my 11 Ultra , just sitting here , it was involved in a minor bump a couple years ago when some one backed into the bike and knocked it over by hitting the tour pak ..

you may or may not be interested in the tour pak , but if you are let me know , can be had for way less than what Harley wants . will send pics of it if you want them

JtB

So Many Highways So Little Time
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-19-2014, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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JtB

I am very interested in your TP, used is better than new IMHO ;-)
you can PM me with pics and price and we can talk.

Thanks,

John

PS. Your upgrade sounds like a good system. I was thinking of maybe having two cables, maybe, one as a backup from now on.

2011 FLTRU Fullsac Sportpipe, SE Breather/air cleaner, SEPRT Smart-tune, Corbin, Madstad 13", Gold Top Fork Emulators & Springs & JRI B shocks. 2003 XLHS

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-19-2014, 01:30 PM
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texasgarages.com/diamond_plate.htm

just for cosmedic or structural possibilities, just get the right gauge

Know I've seen it other places locally
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