Painting my bags - Road Glide Forums
Paint & Bodywork Section Post your paint & bodywork questions and issues here!

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-29-2015, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
Hangaround
 
griswold's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 155
Painting my bags

So my regular painter has been down for a couple weeks with a back issue and I am left with extended bags and lids sitting in my den just waiting to be painted. While I have been powdercoating the chrome parts, I've just about convinced myself to take a shot at doing the bags, lids, and inner myself after reading through FLTRXpilots thread here (https://www.roadglide.org/showthread....rep+saddlebags) I have a good compressor (kobalt 80 gallon) so air shouldn't be an issue for me. I also have a good friend who is letting me borrow his hvlp guns to shoot. I've never shot from an hvlp gun so any advise there is appreciated. I will be shooting single stage urethane vivid black. My main questions revolve around the bag prep and painting steps. I have the V-twin mfg CVO style bags (they seem pretty smooth) and the hog tunes lids. So far from what I have gathered, for the bags and inner i will need to:
1. wash with a good dish soap or wipe with alcohol
2. shoot with adhesion promoter (how many coats?)
3. 2 coats primer (is this needed with AP?)
4. Block with 400
4. shoot with paint ( 1 light 2 medium coats)

The lids should just take a decent washing with soap and then can take a couple coats since they are already primed.

Anyone who has any input would be greatly appreciated before I attempt this next weekend.

2010 FLTRX, 2003 FXDX, 1983 XLH1000, 1975 FLH
griswold is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-29-2015, 04:57 PM
Life Member
 
Paul's Road Glide's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 2,203
Garage
I have a friend that went to school for that stuff and while he doesn't do body work or painting now, the next two tips were probably the most important and was a game changer for me in applying paint to surface

1. you hand holding the the gun must move parallel with the paint surface. If it curves you need to move with that curve. You arm must move like a machine

2. Learn to watch the paint being applied to the surface of your object.

Once I practiced this my game stepped up considerably.

Practice shooting on something else to make sure you get the right setting and start your spraying before your object and follow thru past it.

"Just put that hammer down and give it hell" -Jerry Reed.
Paul's Road Glide is offline  
post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-30-2015, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
Hangaround
 
griswold's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 155
Thanks for the tips. I've got some spare metal laying around the garage I will probably shoot first to check settings and fan pattern.

2010 FLTRX, 2003 FXDX, 1983 XLH1000, 1975 FLH
griswold is offline  
 
post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-30-2015, 03:55 PM
Grey beard
 
FrankieB's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 809
Quote:
Originally Posted by griswold View Post
So my regular painter has been down for a couple weeks with a back issue and I am left with extended bags and lids sitting in my den just waiting to be painted. While I have been powdercoating the chrome parts, I've just about convinced myself to take a shot at doing the bags, lids, and inner myself after reading through FLTRXpilots thread here (https://www.roadglide.org/showthread....rep+saddlebags) I have a good compressor (kobalt 80 gallon) so air shouldn't be an issue for me. I also have a good friend who is letting me borrow his hvlp guns to shoot. I've never shot from an hvlp gun so any advise there is appreciated. I will be shooting single stage urethane vivid black. My main questions revolve around the bag prep and painting steps. I have the V-twin mfg CVO style bags (they seem pretty smooth) and the hog tunes lids. So far from what I have gathered, for the bags and inner i will need to:
1. wash with a good dish soap or wipe with alcohol
2. shoot with adhesion promoter (how many coats?)
3. 2 coats primer (is this needed with AP?)
4. Block with 400
4. shoot with paint ( 1 light 2 medium coats)

The lids should just take a decent washing with soap and then can take a couple coats since they are already primed.

Anyone who has any input would be greatly appreciated before I attempt this next weekend.

Personally I would 80 grit it all, apply 2 or 3 coats of primer. After the primer dries then apply a guide coat ; I usually use rattle can primer: then block wet. This way you can see how wavey the fiberglass is and more importantly if there are any pin wholes that need to be fixed. The inner I would use 320 or 400 and wet sand it along with a red scotch brite pad for the hard to reach areas. Then prime, no A/P needed if you prep good and prime it.

06 RK
11 RGU
FrankieB is offline  
post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-30-2015, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
Hangaround
 
griswold's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 155
Bags are plastic not fiberglass. Would this change your suggestion?

2010 FLTRX, 2003 FXDX, 1983 XLH1000, 1975 FLH
griswold is offline  
post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-30-2015, 11:47 PM
Grey beard
 
RoadHawg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Camino California
Posts: 1,322
Do not sand or scotchbrite on the raw abs bags, you will have a hard time with the scratches fuzzing back up on you. Wipe them down good with alcohol or use Sprayway window cleaner then use the adhesion promoter, follow with a good epoxy primer like the PPG DPLF line in the color best for your topcoat.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Mikes Hawg Paint, Camino, CA.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
RoadHawg is offline  
post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 04:18 AM
Grey beard
 
FrankieB's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 809
Quote:
Originally Posted by griswold View Post
Bags are plastic not fiberglass. Would this change your suggestion?
The only difference I would do with the plastic is use less grit of paper. I personally don't like adhesion promoter, I have never had good luck with it.

06 RK
11 RGU
FrankieB is offline  
post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 10:56 AM
Grey beard
 
RoadHawg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Camino California
Posts: 1,322
I don't care much for it either Frankie, this is pretty much the only time I use the stuff.
Everything else I paint gets epoxy primer first, it's cheap insurance and your best bet the finish is staying put! After painting aircraft for 30 years doing bikes is child's play and still enjoyable to do


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Mikes Hawg Paint, Camino, CA.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
RoadHawg is offline  
post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 11:53 AM
Grey beard
 
FrankieB's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 809
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadHawg View Post
I don't care much for it either Frankie, this is pretty much the only time I use the stuff.
Everything else I paint gets epoxy primer first, it's cheap insurance and your best bet the finish is staying put! After painting aircraft for 30 years doing bikes is child's play and still enjoyable to do
I am not knocking the product, there are way to many people that use it with success. In my case I just prefer a deeper scratch, if I have to I will hit it with a second round of primer.

06 RK
11 RGU
FrankieB is offline  
post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-31-2015, 12:51 PM
Grey beard
 
RoadHawg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Camino California
Posts: 1,322
Adhesion Promoter is best used for getting a good bond with certain plastics, but a lot of people seem to be using it as a crutch for poor or improper surface prep.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Mikes Hawg Paint, Camino, CA.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
RoadHawg is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Road Glide Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Stand for painting extended bags Bigfoots03hd Paint & Bodywork Section 1 08-09-2014 05:42 PM
Decided to do some painting on my 2005! Bandit Paint & Bodywork Section 46 04-27-2013 05:20 AM
painting lowers/ painting plastic questions DerekDonuts Paint & Bodywork Section 5 12-16-2012 05:57 PM
Painting extended saddle bags fox2boost Paint & Bodywork Section 18 08-25-2011 11:01 PM
painting a trunk and saddle bags? kirkglide *General Road Glide Discussions/Pictures 0 05-25-2011 12:32 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome