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post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-11-2013, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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Painter or Self-serve??

Well, I will finally have all my parts here! CVO style saddlebags, Hogtunes lids (already on bike), Chopped tourpak.

I am at a crossroads as to paint it all myself (I'm pretty confident I could do it. I understand the process for the most part, have access to the equipment except a paint booth, and have done much prep and rattlecan'ing in the past.)

What I lack is experience with factors such as.... reducer mixing, spray gun set-up (tip type, pressure, air purification, etc.)

So I either need a lead on a competent painter in Virginia Beach...

Or some big cahonies to press on and just do it!

I have pretty much decided on Color Rite for the Denim Black paint and will use a gun instead of rattle can. I got a pretty damn good paint job with a rattle can (with JDBB) on my fairing lowers but the Hogtunes lids were a different story. I KNOW it was the heat and humidity and my distance from the lid while spraying. The paint was drying before it hit the lid.... And I have some streaking or uneven 'stripping'. Hard to see but I know they are there.... Figured I'd fix when all the other parts were in... Nows the time!

I guess what I am asking, then, is opinions and tips/tricks....
On one hand, if I screw it up...prep and re-shoot. only downside is cost, but thats also the upside if I get it right the first time.
On the other hand.... Have someone locally take care of it and be done with it!

*** EDIT - Oh yea... How much paint do you think I will need? A pint seems too little and a Quart about right. I will be painting saddle bags, lids, tour pack

At the far side of this I am just going to have pinstripes laid down to match the OEM stripping. Will toy with flat-red flaming, screaming skulls and naked painted ladies another day ;-/

Thanks for all comments....topic links... etc!

2010 CVO FLSTSE - traded!
2013 FLTRX Black Demin,RC components slipons and HD heat shields,Black cans/bells,Mutazu lower fairing,blacked out fender struts,CVO style hard bags,J&M Rokker speakers,RF 300x2 and Soundstream Picasso 4 ch amps, Hogtunez speaker lids, kicker 6x9 3 ways.

Last edited by FLTRXpilot; 11-11-2013 at 09:49 AM.
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post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-11-2013, 09:30 AM
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Go for it. If you have to repaint you will have learned a bunch from first try. I would suggest you only try a couple of parts before going for the larger parts to learn. Your paint store should give you mixing and thinning choices. HVLP will give less overspray than regular cup gun. Good luck.

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post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-11-2013, 10:54 AM
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Instead of Colorite why don't you use the proper PPG base coat for denim black that's listed above then use the SEM "Hotrod Flats" clear kit, that is what I use on denim projects and it works perfectly!

The SEM kit has clear, activator and reducer that is mixed in a simple 4:1:1 ratio and sprays real nice, the base coat color gets reduced about 75% with PPG 870 reducer.

The big issue with denim finishes is keeping everything dust free while you shoot as you can't polish out dust or a bug, you will have to 800 wetsand and reshoot your clear over again



Your local PPG jobber will have these products for you

You also will need epoxy primer and it's activator if you want your job to last and to stick to those plastic parts.


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post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-12-2013, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by faststan View Post
Go for it. If you have to repaint you will have learned a bunch from first try. I would suggest you only try a couple of parts before going for the larger parts to learn. Your paint store should give you mixing and thinning choices. HVLP will give less overspray than regular cup gun. Good luck.
Thanks man... I think I am gonna do it and follow RoadHawg's recommendations. I have a HVLP gun...but never used it. Here goes nuthin!

2010 CVO FLSTSE - traded!
2013 FLTRX Black Demin,RC components slipons and HD heat shields,Black cans/bells,Mutazu lower fairing,blacked out fender struts,CVO style hard bags,J&M Rokker speakers,RF 300x2 and Soundstream Picasso 4 ch amps, Hogtunez speaker lids, kicker 6x9 3 ways.
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post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-12-2013, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadHawg View Post
Instead of Colorite why don't you use the proper PPG base coat for denim black that's listed above then use the SEM "Hotrod Flats" clear kit, that is what I use on denim projects and it works perfectly!

The SEM kit has clear, activator and reducer that is mixed in a simple 4:1:1 ratio and sprays real nice, the base coat color gets reduced about 75% with PPG 870 reducer.

The big issue with denim finishes is keeping everything dust free while you shoot as you can't polish out dust or a bug, you will have to 800 wetsand and reshoot your clear over again



Your local PPG jobber will have these products for you

You also will need epoxy primer and it's activator if you want your job to last and to stick to those plastic parts.
Don't have any experience with PPG. So this turns out like the HD Denim Black after the process you describe?

Don't see a paint code for PPG Denim Black (I know thats probably not what they call it) here in this thread but found this one over at 1130cc.com... LG 913102

Also found the SEM "Hotrod Flats" clear kit on Amazon but will go over to House Of Color here tomorrow and see whats up.

I plan on using a HVLP gun and just making one of the bays in the garage into a paint booth with old sheets. I'll clean out the place real good and even place sheets pulled over the garage opener for a ceiling. Hopefully this will keep the dirt down. Also wet the floor prior to spraying. Only real possible problem is using the bullet kero heater I have to warm garage before I spray. It blows some pretty wicked heat but thats just it...blows which might mean kicking up crap in the air. We'll see how cold it is wham I get to that step.
Didn't have a problem with the lowers....turned out real nice in my makeshift paint booth with JDBB rattlecans.

The tourpak is pre-painted gloss black but the maker did not polish it up after painting so I will just sand with 400/800 wet/dry and check for straightness then shoot the flat base over that. Don't think I will need to prime. But the saddle bags are raw so will I need adhesion promoter prior to the epoxy primer? Or just shoot epoxy primer, sand, and base coat....

My compressor is a big unit from Sears more for tearing cars or bikes down and putting together again but I can lower the output to a recommended pressure and I have a water filter on it at the outlet...This runs through 50 feet of hose to the end. I figure I should put an additional filter and a water trap at the end of the hose right before a short hose to the gun. Does this sound like a good plan?

I'm probably going to go with your recommendation. It just feels right.

2010 CVO FLSTSE - traded!
2013 FLTRX Black Demin,RC components slipons and HD heat shields,Black cans/bells,Mutazu lower fairing,blacked out fender struts,CVO style hard bags,J&M Rokker speakers,RF 300x2 and Soundstream Picasso 4 ch amps, Hogtunez speaker lids, kicker 6x9 3 ways.
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post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-12-2013, 09:08 PM
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I will double check on the denim black number when I get back to the shop but that sounds like it.
I do a bunch of insurance paint work for our local HD dealer and the PPG color and SEM clear are a perfect match on the new bikes I do.

800 wet is all you need to use on the tour pac and if you don't go thru the old finish into bare plastic you can get by with out epoxy primer provided they used a half decent paint product so it won't blow up and wrinkle on you.

Sanding and or grinding on that bare abs material leaves a big mess of grinding and sanding marks that will take a few heavy coats of Evercoat polyester filler primer followed by filler till you get the imperfections smoothed out then more polyester primer blocked out to 400/600 then PPG DP90LF epoxy primer before your base/clear. Plastic adhesion promoter goes on before the first paint product is sprayed of course.

Your compressor set up sounds just fine, cool dry air at the gun is what you want no matter how you go about getting it.

You will really like the PPG products, they make painting much easier than other brands by using just one reducer for pretty much their entire line....always grab the tech sheet though and follow it for each product.

PPG products cost a bit (lot) more, but you get what you pay for in the long run, and PPG is also the OEM supplier to HD

1qt of black is more than enough since it gets reduced out about 75% a pint won't quite be enough though.


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Last edited by RoadHawg; 11-12-2013 at 09:11 PM.
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post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 06:57 PM
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Yep, the PPG # for denim black is DBC-913102, it is a bit grayer than vivid black


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post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadHawg View Post
I will double check on the denim black number when I get back to the shop but that sounds like it.
I do a bunch of insurance paint work for our local HD dealer and the PPG color and SEM clear are a perfect match on the new bikes I do.

800 wet is all you need to use on the tour pac and if you don't go thru the old finish into bare plastic you can get by with out epoxy primer provided they used a half decent paint product so it won't blow up and wrinkle on you.

Sanding and or grinding on that bare abs material leaves a big mess of grinding and sanding marks that will take a few heavy coats of Evercoat polyester filler primer followed by filler till you get the imperfections smoothed out then more polyester primer blocked out to 400/600 then PPG DP90LF epoxy primer before your base/clear. Plastic adhesion promoter goes on before the first paint product is sprayed of course.

Your compressor set up sounds just fine, cool dry air at the gun is what you want no matter how you go about getting it.

You will really like the PPG products, they make painting much easier than other brands by using just one reducer for pretty much their entire line....always grab the tech sheet though and follow it for each product.

PPG products cost a bit (lot) more, but you get what you pay for in the long run, and PPG is also the OEM supplier to HD

1qt of black is more than enough since it gets reduced out about 75% a pint won't quite be enough though.
RoadHawg,

Stupid question but are those bikes you painted on the FB page? At least the shop? NICE! Especially the red stripped Road Glide!

OK.... you sold me and I went to my local PPG store after work today and got the paint(s).

got the base (yes, that is the paint code), even the label says Harley Davidson Denim Black. They recommended Bulldog adhesion promoter. Also recommended DT870 reducer for the base and at a 1:1 ratio mix (I asked about this as you mentioned a different reducer # and he asked me when I was going to spray and in what temperature and said I would be fine as temps here are now getting colder). JP202 high build epoxy primer and JH301 undercoat hardener.

So I will get 'educated' with the primer as to how the gun acts...(hopefully!)

He also told me to use a 1.7 tip for the primer and a 1.3 for the base.

What does all this sound like to you? The mix for the base is a little different than your recommendation

Don't plan on sanding the ABS bags as reports indicate you can just prime, sand, then base and they turn out excellent but thanks for the tip.

I'm also surprised that the tech sheet says ~ 10 psi at the air cap for an HVLP gun. I just thought it would be higher. BTW - What does 'at the air cap" mean? At the tip? or at the regulator attached to the base of the gun? That would make more sense... <<< I figured this out... I don't have the gun yet but looking at them shows the spec for 'x' pressure at the regulator delivers 'x' pressure at the tip....

Thanks for all your help. I can't wait to get started....! I know, I know...work slow and don't rush the paint......

PS - How do you/others like the mirror pod? I saw that and immediately looked it up to check it out. Don't know if I want to put a hole in my fairing to mount it though... Still sweet looking!

2010 CVO FLSTSE - traded!
2013 FLTRX Black Demin,RC components slipons and HD heat shields,Black cans/bells,Mutazu lower fairing,blacked out fender struts,CVO style hard bags,J&M Rokker speakers,RF 300x2 and Soundstream Picasso 4 ch amps, Hogtunez speaker lids, kicker 6x9 3 ways.

Last edited by FLTRXpilot; 11-13-2013 at 08:29 PM.
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post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 09:01 PM
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What brand bags did you get? some are much better than others and don't need as much body work, wipe down with alcohol then use your adhesion promoter before any sealer/primer.

Yep DT870 reducer is what I use, 885 is for in the heat of summer. Use a cheap lacquer thinner or acetone for cleaning your gun, don't waste your reducer doing that.

All the bikes on my FB page and main website are done only by me...I'm the only one here

I know the tech sheet says 1:1 for reducing the base color but I only do about 75% so it covers a bit better.

As far as adjusting the airflow on the gun, I have been doing this for so long that I just go by the sound of it anymore.

shoot a test piece and if you have a nice even spray pattern you should be good to go.

Good luck and don't be afraid to ask questions!


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post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 11-13-2013, 11:40 PM
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Great thread!!! I have absolutely no paint experience so I cant help their (RoadHawg has you covered anyway! Great work!)

Only thing I may be able to help with is the dust/debris in garage. I have an air purifier for my garage I just recently bought at Home Depot. Takes out the smallest particles in the air, so small that it will take odors out as well. Paid $40 or so and it works great. Could really help if you let it run 24hrs or more in the garage before you shoot and just put it by your area you lay out to paint, just face it blowing away.


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