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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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Matching paint color issues

Guys I have a 09 SERG (electric Orange) that I am replacing the lids. My painter is have a difficult time getting the paint to match. Its to dark, to light, not enough flake. we are thing there is some method to this madness. I believe we ordered the right paint codes and he is one of the best I know with paint and bodywork for car. when we thnk its right and we add the pearl now its not. Anyone have any detailed instructions to share.

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 02:48 PM
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Electric Orange 925676 is the PPG code and that is what you should be using, it is NOT a special order color so your local jobber can mix it for you.

Like I've said, the orange shade colors are the toughest to match but not impossible with a bit of patience and the right formula.

If he looks at the "recipe" that makes up the base and tinted layers he will know what toners to adjust a bit to get a good match.


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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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Mike thanks I guess. I will pass it along but im not sure this ends up being anything but guess work.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 02:55 PM
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Skilled guess work at best

You are using the PPG formula right?


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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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I believe that is where we got the paint using that number. Is that what formula means?
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigLew View Post
I believe that is where we got the paint using that number. Is that what formula means?
Yes it is, PPG is the OEM supplier to HD so you have the best chances of a match when you use the brand that is on the bike


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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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OK so is there any rule of thumb on how much paint,toner, pearl, clear to shoot? it seems when you get the paint right then add the clear/pearl it lightens or darkens the paint?
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2013, 03:32 PM
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That is where a painters "bag of tricks" expertise comes in handy, I always shoot a test panel along side of the actual parts, that way I can play with the sample and take note of what I did along the way to get a match, then I will do the parts.

I have a bunch of old broken saddle bags that I cut up to use as test panels

The clear is the final step of course, but sometimes you have to adjust the main layer and other times the tinted layer...there are no set "rules" to follow other than the basic instructions on the tech sheet of the paint product that pertain to cure times, reducing, etc.


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