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post #1 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-07-2017, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Upgraded Rotors

2016 RGU.

This is really getting me torked.
I'm at 23K miles and this set of rotors is getting warped. I had to replace the original rotors (all three) at 12K miles because they were warped beyond safe use. Warped so bad that doing a hard stop was very difficult.
Most of my miles are long distance so I'm not sitting on the brakes in commuter traffic.
The H-D rotors are pure junk but I can't find any after market rotors for my model.
Has anybody found good replacement rotors.
I really don't need to hear about the 100K miles put on H-D rotors. They have been junk on every Harley I've owned.

Ken,
- 2006 RG 107/DD6/FatBagger 200mm Rear end w/Car tire
- 2016 RGU with Car Tire
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post #2 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-07-2017, 04:33 PM
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Sorry to hear your having issues.

My 2015 has over 50,000 miles and my rotors are working great without any issues.

When I want to slow down I use my gears and some brake only.

Are you a rider that mostly uses the brakes to slow down?

Just curious because if that is the way you slow down your bike you might consider using your gears more to slow the bike down.

Just a suggestion.

I have never had to replace rotors on any of my past bikes.

Swomack
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post #3 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-07-2017, 05:13 PM
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I know you don't want to hear it, but there has to be a reason why you're having a problem, bottom line is Harley Rotors don't wear out like that - if your going through that many you need to take a look at your set up / riding - cause I'm another one of those riders that puts 60K + miles prior to trading without a rotor change, and I've done that with my last five Harleys - and I too ride - rotors fail because of heat, and it takes a lot of it, excessive is the word, they are made / part of their job is to absorb the heat and displace it - Issues: if you are blocking the air circulation with covers etc heat cannot be displaced efficiently - if the pads are not being released, heat will build up, if they are not being retracted into the caliper (slides not greased) they will heat the rotors - this happens a lot - the rotor runout actually "taps" the pad back on the slide - if the brake fluid has boiled and water has created air pockets the brakes may not be releasing - one of the reasons why you change brake fluid every two years - bottom line have the system looked at by a tech, a qualified one - no reason at all to have the problems you are having - you did not say front or rear on the rotors or both - but the place to start is what mods have been done on the bikes that have had the rotor issues - if they are the same mods same rotor - good starting point to see what changes were made - I don't judge, but you asked for an opinion, and I do not wish anyone brake issues - I spent a lot of time with braking systems had a company called BrakeMaster, Inc., northeast distributor of brake / rotors / systems - spent many hours in the classroom and with techs troubleshooting automotive systems - they all work the same and all have the same issues - to much heat will destroy any rotor, even the top quality ones......
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post #4 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-07-2017, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laconia View Post
I know you don't want to hear it, but there has to be a reason why you're having a problem, bottom line is Harley Rotors don't wear out like that - if your going through that many you need to take a look at your set up / riding - cause I'm another one of those riders that puts 60K + miles prior to trading without a rotor change, and I've done that with my last five Harleys - and I too ride - rotors fail because of heat, and it takes a lot of it, excessive is the word, they are made / part of their job is to absorb the heat and displace it - Issues: if you are blocking the air circulation with covers etc heat cannot be displaced efficiently - if the pads are not being released, heat will build up, if they are not being retracted into the caliper (slides not greased) they will heat the rotors - this happens a lot - the rotor runout actually "taps" the pad back on the slide - if the brake fluid has boiled and water has created air pockets the brakes may not be releasing - one of the reasons why you change brake fluid every two years - bottom line have the system looked at by a tech, a qualified one - no reason at all to have the problems you are having - you did not say front or rear on the rotors or both - but the place to start is what mods have been done on the bikes that have had the rotor issues - if they are the same mods same rotor - good starting point to see what changes were made - I don't judge, but you asked for an opinion, and I do not wish anyone brake issues - I spent a lot of time with braking systems had a company called BrakeMaster, Inc., northeast distributor of brake / rotors / systems - spent many hours in the classroom and with techs troubleshooting automotive systems - they all work the same and all have the same issues - to much heat will destroy any rotor, even the top quality ones......
I bought the bike new just over a year ago. Same as my previous Road Glide. In less than a year the rotors warp, all three.
I don't have covers over them. I don't ride the brakes. The rotors are cool enough to touch after a long ride. When I replace the rotors, I replace the pads as well and do a complete inspection and clean up of the calipers according to the shop manual. I bled them of air on this bike and my 06 Road Glide I replaced the brake fluid every couple of years. When I went to the RC rotors on the 06RG, they are still on there with over 70K miles on them with the stock calipers.

Ken,
- 2006 RG 107/DD6/FatBagger 200mm Rear end w/Car tire
- 2016 RGU with Car Tire
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post #5 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-08-2017, 10:06 AM
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subscribed...... Is it the difference in floating rotors vs. one piece? I've noticed most performance bikes have floating rotors.


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post #6 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-08-2017, 10:56 AM
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On 10 H-Ds only had one warped rotor, all stock no floaters.

Don't fail us now, oh blessed mother of acceleration...


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post #7 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-08-2017, 11:17 AM
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My stock rotors suck as well. They are .020 of runout measured with a dial indicator. I use the engine for slowing down, but in a panic situation, you should be able to pull all the front brake you want without worry. These are heavy bikes, they need heavy brakes.

2013 FLTRU
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post #8 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-08-2017, 05:12 PM
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I had both front rotors replaced under warranty on my 2016 RGU. 4400 miles and no abuse. Felt pulsation and they were out of spec. Have 10000 miles on second set and all is good. No telling....???!!!!

2016 Road Glide Ultra
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post #9 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-08-2017, 11:47 PM Thread Starter
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So I get the impression that some folks are saying that ya shouldn't use the brakes very often. Engine braking and dragging feet is the preferred way to avoid excessive use of brakes, right?
I couldn't find those notions in the operator or tech manual though. Actually, I think if ya just take em off the bike and put them on the shelf, they should last quite a bit longer than if ya actually use them.
Any way, back to the main point of this thread. I'm still looking for a better after market set of rotors that aren't made by H-D and have proven reliability and durability when ya actually use them to stop.
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Ken,
- 2006 RG 107/DD6/FatBagger 200mm Rear end w/Car tire
- 2016 RGU with Car Tire

Last edited by EasternSP; 07-09-2017 at 06:48 AM.
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post #10 of 40 (permalink) Old 07-09-2017, 08:28 AM
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Overlooked Problem

After cleaning your pistons so they will retract properly seat the pads than jack the front of the bike up and spin the tire. How many parts or full revelations do you get? I have found many wheel spacers are made/installed incorrectly and the pads are always dragging. See how that works out for you as part of your investigation into your problem. Your slab rotors should not warp, you are doing something incorrect.
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