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About to perform the 1000mi service on my glide any suggestions on fluids or tips and tricks. Im very mechanically inclined, just lookin for advice from some seasoned owners:cool:
 

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just did mine on Saturday.
Not much to it...

Before starting, I put a yellow Post-It on each of the 4 qts of oil
in order not to pick up the tranny or primary qurt by mistake...
If you use Red Line , all 3 look almost the same.
 

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Welcome to the forum from north Arkansas. Get A moldable type funnel- it will be less mess when you take the oil filter off. Don't forget to screw in the drain plugs BEFORE adding fluids.....just sayin'.
 

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Welcome to the forum from Oklahoma City.

You asked the million dollar question. I am still searching for an answer to which brand and type of oil to use! When I read here in the forum I get, use 20-50 for the engine, primary oil for the primary, around 85 weight and use transmission oil for the transmission, 95-140. But then I talk with Harley mechanics that tell me that is okay for the 5-speed and older but the new 6-speeds are made for the Syn-3 20w-50.

So if you ever find out a good definite answer, let me know... I just did my 5k and used the Harley Syn-3 in the engine. I had my 1k done by the dealer and they used the Syn-3 in all three holes... 2012 RGU 103 w/6-speed.

I have 8k now and my 10k will be coming up soon.

Getting the manual is a smart thing also, there are a lot of things to check on the 1k. The service manual covers it in detail, more so than the owners manual...
 

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Just did 1k on my new bike tonight. Trans oil was reallly irridescent, lots of metal flake. Most I've ever seen. Some flakes that actually remained in the drain pan after dumping the oil... Anyone else see this for the first service? Seems excessive to me. Held off on redline for now and went with formula+ and plan to change it again in another 1k to see how it looks.

How'd your transmission oil look?
 

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About to perform the 1000mi service on my glide any suggestions on fluids or tips and tricks. Im very mechanically inclined, just lookin for advice from some seasoned owners:cool:
I'm new to the forum myself ~ The 12 FLTRXSE is my first RG but 30th HD. I average over 30k per year and perform all maintenance and some of the motor work. There are many great products out there and I never have had an issue with the factory and or extended warranty by performing the service work. I prefer ~ Royal Purple vtwin 20/50 for oil ~ and use RedLine in the Primary & Tranny (Vtwin on both of these) biggest difference is the tranny shifting and noise seem to be improved by a heavier product. I also Highly recommend owning a service manual ~ and torque wrenches may be a consideration down the road. I do utilize other products if necessary ~ I ride so much that sometimes it is just easier to get the Mobil 1 vtwin 20/50 & buy Royal Purple Gear oil at the Auto parts store to complete the service. On my 10 Ultra LTD I have 71k and we recently checked the runout on the crank which was well within factory spec. I changed it over to a Feuling camplate & Oil Pump just out of concern of the mileage so this is when we checked the runout on the crank. Have fun ~ I enjoy wrenching on the bikes almost as much as ridin ~ & I love to save a buck when possible so I can buy new parts and install them only to save more money and buy more parts ~ I live in FL ~ but ride anywhere anytime ~
 

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I ran Amsoil 20/50 in my 2005 roadglide with a non synthetic primary oil. Belray for the tranny. Never had any issues and beat that bike to death. I would change out 2 or 3 rear tires before an oil change. Damn burnouts. When my 2013 FLTRX hits around 2500 miles Im gonna switch over to the Amsoil synthetic. I've only got 300 miles on it now. Gonna change all oils at 500 miles just to get rid of all the aluminum and metals in the oils.
 

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If you want to keep your warranty, the dealer must perform this service.

It's also more than just an oil change and fluid flush, they are literally checking every nut and bolt on the bike to see what has vibrated loose since the bike was delivered new.
 

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If you want to keep your warranty, the dealer must perform this service.
This is completely incorrect statement.

You must perform the service properly - which means buy a Service manual and keep receipts. Document when performed and mileage. Note any abnormal shit. And yes maybe if you found a stripped bolt they probably won't give you a replacement... But I can buy a shit load of bolts that *they* screwed up for $400 they want to do the service.

Dealer can not deny you warranty unless they can prove you (or your mechanic) screwed something up. (ie not putting oil back in the engine etc).
 

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If you want to keep your warranty, the dealer must perform this service.

It's also more than just an oil change and fluid flush, they are literally checking every nut and bolt on the bike to see what has vibrated loose since the bike was delivered new.
I have heard & read this over the years, but have never seen it in print from the MoCo. What is your source for this statement?

As long as the maintenance is performed correctly and on schedule there should be no issues with the manufacturer's warranty or the extended service plan (if you have one). All maintenance, regardless who does the work, should be documented.

Maybe I'm just cynical, but I find it hard to believe anyone is checking every nut and bolt at the thousand mile mark... or ever.

Here is what the MoCo says should happen at 1,000 miles:
Replace motor oil & filter
Inspect oil lines & brake system
Tires - Check pressure & tread
Replace primary case lubricant
Replace transmission lubricant
Clutch - Check adjustment
Drive belt & sprockets - Inspect & adjust
Brake & clutch controls - Check & adjust
Jiffy stand - Inspect & lubricate
Inspect fuel lines & fittings
Inspect brake fluid
Inspect brake pads & discs
Check electrical equipment & switches
Lubricate steering head bearings
Fuel door, tour-pak saddlebags - lubricate hinges
Inspect critical fasteners
Inspect exhaust system
Road test
 

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Maybe I'm just cynical, but I find it hard to believe anyone is checking every nut and bolt at the thousand mile mark... or ever.
I think it's a safe bet the "source" would be the guys Dealer... hence why we call them Stealers... My dealer knew the day I picked up the bike that I would be doing the 1k. His words, Ok, just keep the reciepts and document it. "Yep!" not my first goat rodeo...

What you said above is how I feel also. When I picked up my '12 the air pressure in the tires was about half of what it should be... how's that for proper Pre-Delivery? I already properly adjusted the clutch the second day I had the bike because they had it set tight and I hate the friction zone right off the grip... finding neutral is easy now, was nearly impossible until then.

So I'll keep doing my own work thank you. If the motor craters before I hot rod it, they can fix it... if after, well, I'll fix it so it doesn't crater again... but hey, that's me and my choice.
 

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If you want to keep your warranty, the dealer must perform this service.

It's also more than just an oil change and fluid flush, they are literally checking every nut and bolt on the bike to see what has vibrated loose since the bike was delivered new.
This is not correct ~ 30 HD's and never had a warranty or extended warranty issue by performing my own maintenance. I avg over 30k per year and have never even been asked to provide receipts for filters/lubricants/etc. I have had warranty service at many dealerships across the us and never had an issue, the extended is actually honored at some Indy's and I have had major work performed there also. SemperFi
 

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I do ALL my own services just get yourself a service manual as was suggested and look up current service bulletins of your bike: year and model.

I've been in the industry as a tech/mechanic for years and was disgusted by how the dealers did business when it came to service and repair as they focused more on timely (fast) repairs and turning the pressure on the techs to get things done on sometimes what I would consider a ridiculous schedule. Lots of come backs because things get over looked or missed, sometimes loctite is missed and the owner shares this blame because they want their bike yesterday.

I work out of my own garage these days and I work on my group's bikes and have yet to hear any complaints and usually they come back with other projects and keep me nice and busy along with other individuals through word of mouth. I tell them, give me some time I'll get it done right and if it's a repair job I tell them I'll look it over and give you my recommendations and price of repair, something Harley Dealers don't do, they just say "come back later." only to have you standing around waiting for someone to come out and tell you that they didn't even have a chance to look at it today.
Also, the way a lot of them treat people makes me physically ill!
Then you get the shop idiots that are fresh out of MMI that shouldn't even be cleaning bikes, much less perform services.

Long story short, get the service manual, read over all the sections involving your service and take your time. A 1K service is easy peasy. It's not rocket science! Good luck and enjoy. Nothing like pride in your own work!
 

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My bike is 11 months old now; when I did my first oil/primary/tranny fluid change, I also saw alot of metal flake in the pan, but very little after that. None now...
 

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I took my bike in for warranty work a few days ago, Rocket H-D in Huntsville, Alabama. Had a little problem with the brake light lenses falling out. The tech came out and asked me who did my last service, and when I told him that I had, he told me that I had failed to adjust the clutch cable properly. I told him that it was where I was comfortable with it. I told him that the only issue I had was checking/tightening critical fasteners--haven't been able to find out what exactly critical fasteners are. He told me to buy a service manual AND told me that they recommend that the dealership perform all "major" services, i.e., 10k, 20k, 30k, etc. I don't have a problem going to the dealer if there's something I can't or can't take the time to handle, but I also can't see dropping 4 C-notes for something that looks to be a fairly simple exercise.
 
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