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Discussion Starter #1
I've been out of the RG world for a few years and am just looking at all the new BIG jug kits available now. Before I had to take a break from my bike to install a 110" kit on my 2011 RGU 103" engine you had to have your case machined. Now you don't so it is a great way to increase my displacement without doing any machine work.

But if I am going to take my engine down anyhow should I go bigger? Most of my riding is sole riding but may be two up some of the time. What am I looking for out of this? A little more power for climbing mountain passes and passing traffic when I have to. Right now the only work I have done is new cams, air filter & exhaust. I am running a Power Vision tuner but don't have the auto tune feature yet.

My ex had a CVO Switchback right before we split up and the 110" in it had been messaged some and that thing was a power house. Just want to make sure before I dump money into my engine that I am going to be happy with it.
 

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A sub $3000 SE tire shredder kit will give you 120/120ish from 110 inches depending on your pipes and tuner. You can install it at home, with the lower end in the scooter. But you'll need a good wheel set. If it needs wheels and a plate and pump, now your getting close to crate motor money. Your there if you are paying the wrench. And smart money says all 103's need new wheel sets, sooner or later, later just costs more.

A kit 110 will make more power than a S&S 111 using the oem takeoffs. Same with the SE124. The S&S 124 will make about the same as the 110 SE-TS kit using the oem take offs. All of the crate motors will benefit from larger the throttle bodies and injectors like come with the SE-TS kit.

So its 6 of one and half a dozen of the other. If you do your own work, the 110 kit is cheaper horse power. if you pay the wrench, then the S&S motors are prolly the way to go. The SE 120 is the least expensive crate motor, both for the motor and for the install, but I'm not going to recommend that motor to anyone.

Be aware, that past 120/120 you'll start paying driveline tax. The comps aren't up to living with 75/75. The clutch isn't really up to the task of holding 120 hp, and little things like replacing the rear axle adjuster cams costs an arm and a leg.
 

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With the low miles that you have on the bike , the weak spot on TC's is air , you got cams , get S&S to either work your heads ( about a grand ) or get a set of their heads ..

The other weakness is wheels ( the flying kind ) for decent upgrades ...

I agree with Thermo on everything .. Mine is at 70 thou now and I am already looking in the direction I want to be in a couple years when this one needs replacing ..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
A sub $3000 SE tire shredder kit will give you 120/120ish from 110 inches depending on your pipes and tuner. You can install it at home, with the lower end in the scooter. But you'll need a good wheel set. If it needs wheels and a plate and pump, now your getting close to crate motor money. Your there if you are paying the wrench. And smart money says all 103's need new wheel sets, sooner or later, later just costs more.

A kit 110 will make more power than a S&S 111 using the oem takeoffs. Same with the SE124. The S&S 124 will make about the same as the 110 SE-TS kit using the oem take offs. All of the crate motors will benefit from larger the throttle bodies and injectors like come with the SE-TS kit.

So its 6 of one and half a dozen of the other. If you do your own work, the 110 kit is cheaper horse power. if you pay the wrench, then the S&S motors are prolly the way to go. The SE 120 is the least expensive crate motor, both for the motor and for the install, but I'm not going to recommend that motor to anyone.

Be aware, that past 120/120 you'll start paying driveline tax. The comps aren't up to living with 75/75. The clutch isn't really up to the task of holding 120 hp, and little things like replacing the rear axle adjuster cams costs an arm and a leg.
I'll be doing my wrenching. I'm not a sure I know what you are talking about when you say Wheels, Plate & Pump? I'm going to guess the plate is the cam plate and the pump is the oil pump. When I did the Woods cams before I replaced the cam tensions I think but didn't do anything else.

Is the SE-TS kit the best in the market? What about the Fuel Motto 110" kit? Or other companies?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
With the low miles that you have on the bike , the weak spot on TC's is air , you got cams , get S&S to either work your heads ( about a grand ) or get a set of their heads ..

The other weakness is wheels ( the flying kind ) for decent upgrades ...

I agree with Thermo on everything .. Mine is at 70 thou now and I am already looking in the direction I want to be in a couple years when this one needs replacing ..
Okay the flywheel breaking. Some of this old stuff is coming back to me. So when I have it torn down doesn't it make better sense to pull the case and have these weak areas fixed? I know I have low miles on it and should just get on it and ride but I also have the itch to tinker on it. It has been too long since I was able to work on stuff so I am looking forward to getting back at it.
I remember there were kits to change the flywheel bearings to Timken bearings but you had to have your case machined? I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
When I did the cams.







 

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yeah you can do the timken conversion for the flyin wheels , what I was meaning , with only 8000 miles on the bike , I'd leave the bottom alone unless you just wanna go there .. Flywheels should be in great shape still .. I don't upgrade just to upgrade , I will wait for sumpthin' to let go usually or do it when I feel the mileage is approaching a squatting situation ..

For now , if you just got the heads done , you would be good to go IMO for a long while mileage wise ....

Unless ya just wanna .....................
 

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Discussion Starter #8
All I might do to start with is fix my exhaust with a 2-1-2 system and get rid of my duals.
I was looking at upgrading my engine before I had stopped riding. I am one of those guys who can't leave anything stock.

I would just hate to be out somewhere and have something take a dump on me. I try to fix things BEFORE the fact.

In the next 3-4 years I am hoping to start traveling and am going to build a toyhauler that my bike & Jeep while go in. The idea is to travel around the USA and when I stop in an area I hit some wheeling spots but also go sightseeing on the bike. So if I was to have MAJOR engine issues I would be screwed. I'll only have basic tools and stuff with me. I'm thinking I'll spend 8 months of the year traveling and come home for the summers. I don't enjoy the cold winters here in the mountains of WA like I use to.

So I'd like to try and fix all the trouble areas now so my bike can be as trouble free as possible.
 

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I'll be doing my wrenching. I'm not a sure I know what you are talking about when you say Wheels, Plate & Pump? I'm going to guess the plate is the cam plate and the pump is the oil pump. When I did the Woods cams before I replaced the cam tensions I think but didn't do anything else.

Is the SE-TS kit the best in the market? What about the Fuel Motto 110" kit? Or other companies?
Take a look at what you get with the tire shredder kit. Then price the other 110 kits along with the extras that come in the TS kit. It really is a pretty good deal.

The TS kit is $2550ish.

The Fuel moto kit is $2900
plus the head work $880
plus the throttle body and injectors $600
So you'll have almost $4400 in that kit and stuff to go with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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yeah you can do the timken conversion for the flyin wheels , what I was meaning , with only 8000 miles on the bike , I'd leave the bottom alone unless you just wanna go there .. Flywheels should be in great shape still .. I don't upgrade just to upgrade , I will wait for sumpthin' to let go usually or do it when I feel the mileage is approaching a squatting situation ..

For now , if you just got the heads done , you would be good to go IMO for a long while mileage wise ....

Unless ya just wanna .....................
Gotta check em. Back then lots of brand new motors were 007-010 out. We all knew about the cams side, but it took a while for people to catch on the the damage the run out on the sprocket side was doing. And people were ignoring the sparkle on the piston skirts during build ups, only to loose crank pins later. 9-13 on those bad pins. I had my foot on a set of wheels today, popular shop had trued and welded them with a good bill of health. Pin failed 3000 miles later, now its a foot rest.
 

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This is the only one I am seeing for my year bike. I know they offer the TS kit for the 2014-17 but I'm not finding it for my year.

https://www.harley-davidson.com/store/screamin-eagle-bolt-on-110-cubic-inch-street-performance-kit---black-highlighted

Punch this PN in at the dealer of your choice 92500037A New Castle sells them at the moment for $2563.99

Other dealers might want a little more https://www.harley-davidson.com/store/screamin-eagle-110ci-stage-v-tire-shredder-kit

Its about a 30 day lead time on these kits, so plan ahead. Only thing you'll need thats not in the kit is a larger backing plate for the intake. S&S has a nice setup that you can hide under the existing breather.

Good tuner and some free flowing pipes and this set up will make 10 to 15 more than advertised, with ease. But the tuner is important, these fat injector motors are sometime not really happy with piggy back units.
 

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I would have say Therm is spot on, Just did an S&S 110 kit and crank by my local independent and although I'm happy with the results if I could do it again I would of waited and saved a little more and put a 124 in. If doing your own wrenching it's pretty reasonable. I have the same bike, 11 RGU with Cyclerama 575 and it's putting out 111 HP and 123 torque right where I ride and still getting 44 mpg.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I would have say Therm is spot on, Just did an S&S 110 kit and crank by my local independent and although I'm happy with the results if I could do it again I would of waited and saved a little more and put a 124 in. If doing your own wrenching it's pretty reasonable. I have the same bike, 11 RGU with Cyclerama 575 and it's putting out 111 HP and 123 torque right where I ride and still getting 44 mpg.
Those are the type of numbers I would like to get. I don't need a monster motor but I do like that feeling when I romp on it and it pushes me back. Like I had said my ex-wife had a CVO with a warmed up 110" and it was fast enough for me.
 
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