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I like what I have read on the S&S 124" as far as being bullet proof and easily going over the 100k mark. Will a 117" built right get me the same results? I'm looking more towards the reliability factor obviously the 124" will give me more Hp & Torque then the 117". And most importantly what's the $$$ difference between the two? I'm not made of money here and would prefer to do it right the first time and not worry about it again. So what's it going to be a 117" build or S&S 124" swap?? Thanks all in advance for your input.
 

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S&S 124 all the way. Built by a company that's been doing for over 50 years. Warranty for 12 months unlimited miles from coast to coast. You can't get any better than that.

I have a s&s 124LC and it's perfect!!! 123hp/133ft with a slipping clutch. Before I bought it I asked s&s why the output was and even with the slipping clutch it was right were they said.
 

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Love my 124 granted its an evo in my FXR. Gotta wire the compression releases and starter with two relays so that it starts easy. I'm only about 8000 miles right now but sure hope it goes 100K without issue.

Drew
 

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I like what I have read on the S&S 124" as far as being bullet proof and easily going over the 100k mark. Will a 117" built right get me the same results? I'm looking more towards the reliability factor obviously the 124" will give me more Hp & Torque then the 117". And most importantly what's the $$$ difference between the two? I'm not made of money here and would prefer to do it right the first time and not worry about it again. So what's it going to be a 117" build or S&S 124" swap?? Thanks all in advance for your input.
The longevity of the motor is more about the components used rather than the displacement. Build that 117" with the right components and it will easily go the distance too. If you are spending the money on a crank, bottom end machining, cams, heads, etc. Then the 124" is virtually the same cost so why not get the added cubic inches?? Start with a bulletproof bottom end whichever direction that you go. Both size motors are large and need the added strength in the crank. The stocker is just not up to the task.
 

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The longevity of the motor is more about the components used rather than the displacement. Build that 117" with the right components and it will easily go the distance too. If you are spending the money on a crank, bottom end machining, cams, heads, etc. Then the 124" is virtually the same cost so why not get the added cubic inches?? Start with a bulletproof bottom end whichever direction that you go. Both size motors are large and need the added strength in the crank. The stocker is just not up to the task.
Very well said.
 

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Another site

HERE IS A POST ON THAT FROM ANOTHER SITE

Based on "not hitting the redline" very much and if you're riding a dresser, I would go for the LC with the 585's. Id also consider the exhaust you intend to use. The exhaust would something to at least consider because they are so influential in the characteristics of the behavior or the bike. I have the higher compression version and I have tuned mine, 120R's with increased compression and the T124 LC version. The LC version was quite some time back and it had a not so hot exhaust on it (V&H True Duals) for making big HP but for a guy that tuned a lot of bikes now, grew up on dirt bikes and had GSXR's, fast quads, dirt bikes and hot pro street style cars and even a mild drag car, the T124LC was pretty damn impressive to me for a out of the box build. Thats not to say the HC version is a slouch but it is softer on the bottom because the 640's (one of my favorite big cams that make numbers and run quiet) bleed off quite a bit of cylinder pressure and respond well to quite a bit more squeeze. Also just so you know, you can no longer order the T series motors from S&S with SE cases. They only come with the T2 cases and that poses a little bit of a task to make your oil supply and return run thru where the trans mates to the engine like the late model HD bikes. That said, S&S does offer a jig to help simplify the modification required to the cases to make the oil lines work as they do in factory form (which is no doubt the way to go IMO). Whether or not S&S can actually do the cases for the oil lines is yet to be determined because it puts them in the crosshairs for the lawsuit again. After all, the whole reason they got away from doing that in the first place was because HD filed suit for patent infringement and the result was the T2 cases. A couple of perks with the new S&S T2 cases are that they are extremely beefy! These babies look like they can handle 250 HP reliably but Im not a metallurgist or an engineer. Also, the new T2 cases are designed with the Timken crank bearing to be used without any mods to the cases making the pair up flawlessly with no extra machine work or inserts required as they are with the SE cases. You made what I really consider a no brainer choice after working with both motors several times by going with S&S. Their cam plate/oil pump is extremely beefy as well and moves a ton of oil. At hot idle on mine im running close to 32 psi oil pressure with Redline 20-60 oil. All of the components just seem like they are a higher quality. The flywheels are better, the thicker fins really do aid in keeping engine noises minimized IMO, you get roller rockers and you get a warranty! From a company that doesnt just tell you theres a warranty and then try to weasel their way out of it when something does go awry. They will take care of you unless theres an idiotic tune in the bike or you ran it without oil or something that would shame you to even have the nerve to ask for a warranty claim. They make much higher quality stuff from what Ive experienced. As far as your concern about compression and lasting longer, I dont know that looking at it the way that you are makes any sense, really. Cylinder pressure is what you should be looking at in regards to that, not static compression (ie 10.8:1 vs 10.2:1). I am working on a granite T124 quote for a member here and Ill probably know something tomorrow but one of the things we have not quite ironed out yet is the oil passage issue and if S&S can do that for me or if I will have to buy their jig and take the cases up to the machine shop and do it myself. Also just FYI, S&S builds these motors on the low side of the compression you'd typically want for the cams they offer in them. As you might suspect, it reduces the chances of warranty claims, however, I heard from a little birdie that they will increase compression a touch and back the full warranty as long as it is done at their facility before the engine leaves. Someone else mention they would only do this if you also bought and used their Pro Tune module but I really dont think thats is a reality. One last thing, the S&S motors (maybe because of the thicker fins and probably the less agressive cam ramps) run quite a bit quieter. Some of the 120R's ive done, one with even a great set of lifters and much considerably lighter valve springs installed and conventional 20-50 oil used sounds like a thrashing machine compared to the S&S motor. That may not always be the case but that is what I have seen here in my shop. Congrats on the new motor, you wont regret going the S&S route IMO.
 
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