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Discussion Starter #1
Im looking to upgrade the evo motor...looking for suggestions....

I believe the cam ill use is the EV27 andrews cam....
just bout SE ignition module/better plugs/wires/coil...


I dont wont to spend alot on it as at some point will be cheaper to buy a engine...lol
 

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How many miles on your evo these or great motors and can be woke up real nice and what or you wanting out of it, there is a evo guru in KC.
 

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yep the miles is what I am curious about .. I had two very high mileage EVO TG's and since ya dont have all the EPA stuff , wont take much to wake it up

JtB
 
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ide do the ev46 over the 27,our 1.900 street port heads set @ 10.0-1,80/90 easy & inexpensive
 

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Had EV27 in my evo motor, pulls real nice from 3000 up to redline. Head work will really wake it up. Some reversion issues if you are running straight pipes, need back pressure to run thier best
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have 49,500 miles


should i upgrade to mikuni 42mm carb also?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ide do the ev46 over the 27,our 1.900 street port heads set @ 10.0-1,80/90 easy & inexpensive
even if only need driving/passing power?
 

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I have 49,500 miles


should i upgrade to mikuni 42mm carb also?
That engine is barely broke in.

Miki's and S&S's make great drag racing carbs. But day to day riding, and especially touring, are not those carb's strong suits. You will lose a lot of fuel economy and day to day driveability with either one when compared to the factory CV. Properly jetted CVs are more than capable of making big horsepower numbers. So, in my opinion a Miki would not be an upgrade.

Another vote for the EV46. Rubber mount Evo's like hotter cams than you would typically select for a rigid mount. Personally I dislike the EV27 and EV3, they were very popular back in the 90's, but I never liked the way my bikes ran with these cams. My favorite cams back then were Crane 310 and 316.

If you are willing to take the heads off, a simple .050" mill, combustion chamber clean up, tulip valves and a seat pressure bump will work great with the EV46.
 
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That engine is barely broke in.

Miki's and S&S's make great drag racing carbs. But day to day riding, and especially touring, are not those carb's strong suits. You will lose a lot of fuel economy and day to day driveability with either one when compared to the factory CV. Properly jetted CVs are more than capable of making big horsepower numbers. So, in my opinion a Miki would not be an upgrade.

Another vote for the EV46. Rubber mount Evo's like hotter cams than you would typically select for a rigid mount. Personally I dislike the EV27 and EV3, they were very popular back in the 90's, but I never liked the way my bikes ran with these cams. My favorite cams back then were Crane 310 and 316.

If you are willing to take the heads off, a simple .050" mill, combustion chamber clean up, tulip valves and a seat pressure bump will work great with the EV46.
actully,your wrong.a mikuni or S&S,properly tuned will NOT give less milage or "around town" drivability.if youve got any decent headwork done,your heads will out flow a stock CV carb (dont get me wrong,I like CV`s,their the best "stock" carb by far,but for VERY mild builds only)a bigger carb will yield more mid-high RPM power.no need for any more than 150# on the seats either
 

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actully,your wrong.a mikuni or S&S,properly tuned will NOT give less milage or "around town" drivability.if youve got any decent headwork done,your heads will out flow a stock CV carb (dont get me wrong,I like CV`s,their the best "stock" carb by far,but for VERY mild builds only)a bigger carb will yield more mid-high RPM power.no need for any more than 150# on the seats either
+1 the ev46 a little head work and the mik carb work great together did that combo on a buddy's 97 rk he gets around 50 mpg and has no problems setting a pace two up.One friend has a 90 wg evo that has been built bottom up only bike that has beet him was a punched 88 to 95 rk that had two bottles of nos: one in each saddel bag and only when he hit the nos :eek:
 

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actully,your wrong.a mikuni or S&S,properly tuned will NOT give less milage or "around town" drivability.if youve got any decent headwork done,your heads will out flow a stock CV carb (dont get me wrong,I like CV`s,their the best "stock" carb by far,but for VERY mild builds only)a bigger carb will yield more mid-high RPM power.no need for any more than 150# on the seats either
That is your opinion. But, in my opinion I'm not wrong. No disrespect and I'm not looking to argue, but I disagree with your statement about CVs only being good for "VERY mild" builds. I've never found this to be true. CVs aren't perfect and if I was drag racing I wouldn't run one. But on a daily driver I wouldn't run anything else. BTDT.

I've run S&S's on several bikes over the years and had one bike with a Miki. While I like the way both carbs can perform, I always found there were too many compromises in the way the engines ran when either were tuned to get decent mileage... and decent mileage was never comparable to a CV. I would rather give up a few horsepower and never have to deal with personality quirks of the S&S and Miki on a day to day basis, not to mention when on road trips with varying altitude changes.

I agree, no requirement to raise spring pressure much (if at all), but if I had valves out I would reassemble with 150/155 lbs just because that's what I have always done on 3 different Evo's. But that's just me, and I like RPM...

My 88" evo makes over 100ftlbs and 90hp with a properly jetted CV. It runs great and will get high 40's mpg when on the open road. Yes I probably could get a few more horespower with a bigger carb, but I see no reason to chase a few measly HP and it will easily hit the 7k limiter.

My 95" twincam with a 40mm CV made 110hp and 113tq. It got average mileage commuting (35-36mpg) and mid 40's while touring. Ran great and I never once felt I needed more carb. Also happy to run 7k rpm without any issue.

My buddy has a 113" with a CV44 he's making 125ftlbs and 120hp. Bike runs great and he still gets low to mid 40's MPG commuting. Yes he could probably get more HP out of a bigger carb and he's been considering a 51mm CV. But he wouldn't put an S&S on this bike if someone gave him one.
 

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+1 the ev46 a little head work and the mik carb work great together did that combo on a buddy's 97 rk he gets around 50 mpg and has no problems setting a pace two up.One friend has a 90 wg evo that has been built bottom up only bike that has beet him was a punched 88 to 95 rk that had two bottles of nos: one in each saddel bag and only when he hit the nos :eek:
A buddy of mine had an ev46 in a '93 Dyna WG, with CV. He'd float the valves and hit the 8k limiter when he was racing it. In his words, He'd rather blow his motor up than lose a race. Not that he didn't lose a few but he'd give it all he could. That guy also turned amazing reaction times at the drag strip too. That evo is still running with about 75k miles - but it was smoking of throttle last time I saw it.

I've never ever gotten anywhere near 50mpg with an S&S or a Miki. I'm not saying it can't be done, but I sure as hell can't find a reliable sweet spot with either one. I suppose riding style probably has a lot to do with it.
 
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glad your happy with the CV`s,like i said,their nice carbs.we have no problem tuning S&S`s though,been at it for a while
 

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Carbs...

Some folks have really good things to say about a Bobby Wood modded CV carb for both power and mileage.

You might give him a call before you toss your CV carb off to the side. If I could run one, I'd do it, but I'm stuck with S&S's ignition system and their "anti-knock" program etc...so I'm stuck using their S&S "E" carb. (Note: I just got it back from Triple xXx in Texas...and boy what a difference! It still eats gas compared to a C/V, but the engine is a LOT smoother and has a bit more grunt than it did with the stock S&S "E" carb setup).

If I had the wiring diagram...and could muster up the courage to solder a bunch of wires together...I'd rip out the S&S I.S.T. ignition that came with my T-111 crate motor...I'd do it in a heart-beat. Then...I'd switch out the S&S carb to a Bobby Wood's C/V set-up. Lol...he tells me I'd be really pi$$ed at him for about 2 tankfuls of fuel...then...once I got used to the new-found power, I'd stop riding it like I stole it...and my mileage would go way up compared to my modded "E" carb....ha-ha!

: )
 
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get a regular nose cone,a dyna S ignition & coil,about a 1 hour swap to get rid of the S&S ignition.we use woods stuff from time to time,but to talk to bobby or the woodies (wood product groupies),EVERYTHING is junk exept for their stuff
 

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yeah I have spoke to them before , and that very thing turned me away , kinda like Amsoil and their marketing

JtB
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So if I want to keep cruise control the n I need keep the CV40mm?
 

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So if I want to keep cruise control the n I need keep the CV40mm?
Not necessarily. But that is certainly the easiest path to take.

I've got no experience with this, but at least one option exists:
http://www.mchitch.com/Mikuni_Cruise_Control_Adapter.htm

(Not sure if similar adapter exists for S&S, not that you've even hinted at going that route, pretty sure I'm the chucklhead who brought that up. :) )

Edit: Spoke to soon... S&S part 11-2927 - http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/S_S_Cruise_Control_Adapter_Kit_Big_Twin_98_05_p/1003-0022.htm
 
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