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14" Chubby's on 2015 RGS (lots of pics)

6306 Views 28 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  TLKurtz
This is my write-up for the handlebar project on my 2015 RGS. This is my second Road Glide that I’ve owned and the 5th handlebar project I’ve done (1 Wide Glide, 3 pre-2015 Road Glides, then this one). The project took just over two weeks, including three weekends. If you haven’t done one of these, don’t be afraid. It’s extremely easy with proper planning. Most of my time was spent waiting on CORRECT parts from the vendor.

Because of the size of my new bars I had to extend the clutch and brake cables. I also went with all chrome controls on the new bars. While I was at this project, I decided to replace the rocker box covers with the RSD Chrome Clarity covers as well as install a 2” tank lift.

For starters, the vendor: I chose to go with Hill Country Custom Cycles out of Texas. Unfortunately, due to my experience this will likely be the last time I will use them for a project. Although Brian at Hill Country tried to be helpful (when I could get a hold of him), overall they failed miserably as a company. They are near impossible to reach whether it be for sales or after-sales support. Also, although they claim to build a lot of “pre-wired” ready-to-install kits for bikes, according to Brian this was the first 2015 Road Glide they sold a kit for. They really had no clue what was needed. I ordered Wild 1 Chubby 14” apes. These bars are 1.25” bars but reduce to 1” at the risers and the wires exit the bottom of the wires. The new Road Glides are 1.25” bars the entire way, meaning the risers are also 1.25”. There was no way the new bars would work without changing the risers and I would have thought that Hill Country would have known that. They also did not ship my cable clamps that I ordered, nor did they make mention that they failed to ship them or that they were on back order. I had to call and ask why I didn’t get them. Lastly, they sent +10 cables (10” over stock) for the new bars. The +10’s are WAY too long and there just isn’t anywhere to route the extra cable length. In reality, +4 cables fit about perfect and +6 cables might have been a bit better just so there was a touch of extra cable. Trying to get in touch with Hill Country to resolve these issues was terrible. They basically don’t answer the phone or email. Once the issues were discussed, they shipped replacements via USPS priority which takes three days from TX to IN. All of that resulted in a lot of wait time with the bike just sitting there.

This entire project could have easily been done in a day, or over a weekend if you want to go slow, BS with your buddies, and drink some adult beverages. Either purchasing 1.25” bars that have the wires exit in the front, or making sure you replace the risers to account for whatever handlebars you choose is a good start. Also, make sure you order the correct cable lengths for the bars you choose. If you have to or choose to replace your cables be advised you have to pull the exhaust and the fuel tank. This usually means also replacing the exhaust gaskets. Pulling the tank is no big deal, but the less fuel in it the better. The brake cable runs under the fuel tank to the ABS block under the right-side cover. Along those lines, I learned that the new hydraulic clutch cable likely won’t look like the stock HD cable. This is allegedly because there have been issues with the stock HD cables so there is a new design. Be advised the new design includes an o-ring that the stock cable didn’t have. This o-ring goes into the hole in the side of the transmission that the cable screws into.

Lastly, bleeding the clutch or the front brakes wasn’t difficult either. Having prior knowledge of how to bleed brakes helps, but it’s not necessary. For the front brakes remember to start with the caliper the furthest from the brake reservoir. Be patient, try not to get fluid on any painted parts, and you’ll be fine.

That’s about all I can remember from the project. Feel free to ask any questions, and don’t be misled by what’s above. It really isn’t difficult. Pics throughout the install are below.
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Question on the tank lift with respect to the fuel gauge:

Does it make the gauge less accurate, or does it make some fuel inaccessible (reduced range)?

I never seem to get a science/fact-based answer to this question.
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