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14" Chubby's on 2015 RGS (lots of pics)

6307 Views 28 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  TLKurtz
This is my write-up for the handlebar project on my 2015 RGS. This is my second Road Glide that I’ve owned and the 5th handlebar project I’ve done (1 Wide Glide, 3 pre-2015 Road Glides, then this one). The project took just over two weeks, including three weekends. If you haven’t done one of these, don’t be afraid. It’s extremely easy with proper planning. Most of my time was spent waiting on CORRECT parts from the vendor.

Because of the size of my new bars I had to extend the clutch and brake cables. I also went with all chrome controls on the new bars. While I was at this project, I decided to replace the rocker box covers with the RSD Chrome Clarity covers as well as install a 2” tank lift.

For starters, the vendor: I chose to go with Hill Country Custom Cycles out of Texas. Unfortunately, due to my experience this will likely be the last time I will use them for a project. Although Brian at Hill Country tried to be helpful (when I could get a hold of him), overall they failed miserably as a company. They are near impossible to reach whether it be for sales or after-sales support. Also, although they claim to build a lot of “pre-wired” ready-to-install kits for bikes, according to Brian this was the first 2015 Road Glide they sold a kit for. They really had no clue what was needed. I ordered Wild 1 Chubby 14” apes. These bars are 1.25” bars but reduce to 1” at the risers and the wires exit the bottom of the wires. The new Road Glides are 1.25” bars the entire way, meaning the risers are also 1.25”. There was no way the new bars would work without changing the risers and I would have thought that Hill Country would have known that. They also did not ship my cable clamps that I ordered, nor did they make mention that they failed to ship them or that they were on back order. I had to call and ask why I didn’t get them. Lastly, they sent +10 cables (10” over stock) for the new bars. The +10’s are WAY too long and there just isn’t anywhere to route the extra cable length. In reality, +4 cables fit about perfect and +6 cables might have been a bit better just so there was a touch of extra cable. Trying to get in touch with Hill Country to resolve these issues was terrible. They basically don’t answer the phone or email. Once the issues were discussed, they shipped replacements via USPS priority which takes three days from TX to IN. All of that resulted in a lot of wait time with the bike just sitting there.

This entire project could have easily been done in a day, or over a weekend if you want to go slow, BS with your buddies, and drink some adult beverages. Either purchasing 1.25” bars that have the wires exit in the front, or making sure you replace the risers to account for whatever handlebars you choose is a good start. Also, make sure you order the correct cable lengths for the bars you choose. If you have to or choose to replace your cables be advised you have to pull the exhaust and the fuel tank. This usually means also replacing the exhaust gaskets. Pulling the tank is no big deal, but the less fuel in it the better. The brake cable runs under the fuel tank to the ABS block under the right-side cover. Along those lines, I learned that the new hydraulic clutch cable likely won’t look like the stock HD cable. This is allegedly because there have been issues with the stock HD cables so there is a new design. Be advised the new design includes an o-ring that the stock cable didn’t have. This o-ring goes into the hole in the side of the transmission that the cable screws into.

Lastly, bleeding the clutch or the front brakes wasn’t difficult either. Having prior knowledge of how to bleed brakes helps, but it’s not necessary. For the front brakes remember to start with the caliper the furthest from the brake reservoir. Be patient, try not to get fluid on any painted parts, and you’ll be fine.

That’s about all I can remember from the project. Feel free to ask any questions, and don’t be misled by what’s above. It really isn’t difficult. Pics throughout the install are below.
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Stock bars

Finished product
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Bike tore down

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Comparison of the stock 1.25" risers versus the 1" risers for the Wild 1 bars.
New risers are closest and stock risers are behind.

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Close-up of tank lift
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RSD Chrome Clarity rocker box covers

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Side view of new gap with the 2" tank lift.
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Thanks for the pics and info on your install, your bike is lookin good. I do have a question, why did you have to remove the exhaust?
Had to pull the exhaust to remove the side cover of the trans to install the new hydraulic clutch cable and to bleed the system.
Did you have any issues with grips on new bars? My grips won't slide on to the bars smoothly. Especially on the throttle side. Major issue
Nope. I have Avon grips and they fit just fine. The last set of Wild 1 bars I had the Avon throttle was a little sticky (due to thicker/better chrome than stock bars). I slightly ground out the Avon throttle grip, but you can also call Avon and they will send you a larger one.

One more question, did you have to remove the pins from the plug to feed the wires through the handlebars?
Nope, no pin removal required. Everything slides through the bars just fine.
tank lift-does this help cooling?does it affect miles remaining readout?
Supposedly it does help cooling, but I really have not proof for that. For me, it was about aesthetics, having a better view of the RSD rocker box covers, and being able to clean the front of the engine better. I've only got 100 miles on it since doing the changes, but I'm sure the fuel gauge will be off by a little (no clue how much - still testing). I normally go based on miles anyway once I figure out the normal mpg my bike gets. The small trade-off of the fuel gauge being a little wrong versus what I was looking for was worth it to me.
Good job man bike looks great.
Thank you. It's a friggin blast to ride now! Next upgrade is louder stereo system, then onto bigger cams.
Question on the tank lift with respect to the fuel gauge:

Does it make the gauge less accurate, or does it make some fuel inaccessible (reduced range)?

I never seem to get a science/fact-based answer to this question.
Yes, the tank lift makes the fuel gauge less accurate. Because I never completely trust fuel gauges to start with, I tend to learn what mileage to expect from my bike in the city, with mixed riding, or straight highway riding (long trips).

No, it doesn't make less fuel available from my personal experience. I had a tank lift on my 2008 Wide Glide and used to run it down to the nubbins on occasion and never ran out of fuel but always got use of almost all of the fuel in the tank.

On this particular bike, this past weekend it told me I was low on fuel, then eventually the fuel range meter showed I was down to 16 miles before running out completely. I refueled and as it turns out there was still around 1.2 GALLONS left in the tank, meaning I could have easily gone another 40-45 miles before the walk of shame.

This is one of those things that either you like the looks and cleaning benefits and can tolerate the fuel gauge being a little off, or not.
Great write up!!!!!!! looking at the 14 inch chubbys for my 2015 CVO, just wondering how much rise did your stock bars have and how tall are you? I just want to make sure that the 14's are not gonna be to tall for long trips..... thanks
Not sure how much rise the stock bars had. They were very low and uncomfortable for me. This is my 3rd set of 14" Chubby's and I love them. The first set was on a '08 Wide Glide, the second set was on a 2012 Road Glide. These are very comfortable (to me) for long trips. I've ridden from northern Indiana to Vegas and back a couple times as well as to Sturgis, Florida, Tail of the Dragon, etc.

I'm only 5'9" with a 30" inseam, but I also have about a 72" reach so for a short guy my arms are kind of long. These bars work great for me.
Thanks, that helps me a lot.......
Good luck with whatever you decide on. Post pics when you do something.
I have been told that on my 15 road glide that I can go up to 14" without having to buy extensions is this true? Also Where did you get your risers from?
I've read that you can go 14's without extensions, but on my 2012 and 2015 Road Glides I opted to extend the wires. I wanted to be sure there was easy fitment and that the wires weren't stretched too much.

As for the risers, I think Hill Country Custom Cycles supplied the risers, but can't remember. Either way, as much as I love the Wild 1 Chubby bars, bars that are made for the new Road Glides would have been the easier route.
I bought the same risers for my 15 RG did you have problems with the gauge cluster connector hitting the riser and not seating properly?
No, not at all. It fit back together perfectly.
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