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Discussion Starter #1
Got bike back together yesterday but, I'm not real happy with how I had to run the brake line. Right now, it runs behind the forks, around the right side fork shroud, then up to the lever (spiraling as it goes up which looks ugly to me). It moves quite a bit during lock to lock turning, causing it to hit the inner fairing and such. I used a rubber coated cable holder on the top fork shroud bolt to help keep the hose from rubbing on the inner fairing. How do you have yours routed?

(and NO that's not cocaine on the glove box!!!! It's baby powder that has fallen out of the bars after pulling wires)



The clutch cable (+6) looks more natural (I believe it is pretty close to stock location) but it doesn't quite line up at the clutch perch. I tried using the little plastic cable holder that attaches cable to side of gauge housing but the cable doesn't like to be restricted like that and rips the cable holder out of the housing.


 

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Discussion Starter #2
One bump and I will let it fall into the abyss...
 

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I'd love to be able to chime in and shed light on this for you but I'm in the same boat right now. I find it very interesting however that plenty of folks talk of rerouting this cable or line and changing the clutch cable once in a while but finding threads or posts about changing the brake lines are hard to find. My searching skills aren't the best though. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I am pretty good about searches but I sure can't find anyone describing routing issues with the OEM brake line. I have searched for several days and have decided to give up. Tomorrow after work, I'm going to attempt to bleed the front brakes and call it good. Or at least good until I can ride it and see how things react. I almost wander if heat (like sitting in the sun) would make the hose relax and fit more comfortably.

If no one else chimes in, or I find a solution, I will chime in here.
 

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Are you able to remove the MC and rotate it to remove the twist from the line?

I don't have the same bars or the same lines, but it might help. G'Luck...
 

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On mine I had to replace the clutch cable with a + 4" cable and routed it the same as stock. As for the brake line mine is stock. Runs up on the forward side of the fork cover and then straight to the lever. Just loosened the banjo a little bit and rotated it slightly to look better. No fluid loss and no bleeding needed. Hope that answers your question.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
On mine I had to replace the clutch cable with a + 4" cable and routed it the same as stock. As for the brake line mine is stock. Runs up on the forward side of the fork cover and then straight to the lever. Just loosened the banjo a little bit and rotated it slightly to look better. No fluid loss and no bleeding needed. Hope that answers your question.
If I run the brake line forward of the fork cover, and then up to the controls, it is too short and won't turn to lock on left side (as well as rubbing on lots of stuff during lock to lock turning).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Can you take a picture showing more of the bike?
I can get some more pictures this morning. Are you wanting general pictures to get an idea of what the 14" looks like on the bike or are you wanting more pictures of the brake hose conundrum?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Are you able to remove the MC and rotate it to remove the twist from the line?

I don't have the same bars or the same lines, but it might help. G'Luck...
Tried multiple configurations and then detached the brake hose and twisted and turned the banjo bolt every way possible but never could find a position where the hose felt "less taught" or not touching multiple things during lock to lock swing.
 

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Discussion Starter #12


I have ABS brakes, and used the stock brake line. no binding, no issues.
Can you show me a bird's eye view picture from the throttle to front of forks?

The pic in your last post looks way better than mine but mine seems too short. Or at least two short for lock to lock turning.
 
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