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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I have put this on the other forum as well but since this is Shark specific I wanted it here as well.

I have found out from some audio gurus that the Shark speaker pods should be sealed for best results, so here goes..

I used this to seal the pods. 1 tube will probably do 2-3 sets of pods and is about 3 bucks.

I used a 1/2 strain relief connector(just the rubber strain relief) which can be found at most hardware stores or Lowes or Home Depot for a couple of bucks and will allow you to remove the factory speaker harness and use some good speaker wire in its place.

Its a bit of a tight fit but with just a little persistance it fits like a glove.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Heres the strain relief and it installed in the pod.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Next is sealing the pod. be careful not to seal the drip hole seen in the upper left of the next pic. I have a solution for that which is in the 1st pic, a foam ear plug. Just roll it up like you were going to put it in your ear but stick it in the drip hole and viola, enough to seal it but easily removed to drain H2O if any were to make its way into the pod.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Uploading pics from my phone blows monkey dick....ugh...

I'll repost later when I'm not ready to put a round into something.


Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Finally got the pics to load correctly. Here is the rest of what I have so far....

I got the Biketronics BT355 line levelers which are supposed to be excellent for cleaning up the signal coming from the Rushmore head unit. I decided to mount it on the left side pod mount, it fits in that area really nicely and I will probably put my EZ pass transponder on the right side pod mount.

I decided to put it there so if I need to do any adjustments I can do it without cutting a bunch of zip ties of other assorted BS. Its accessible and it almost looks like it was meant to go there.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
OK so the amp is in and even with the sub par JBL's it is a HUGE improvement...

I'll post the rest of the build in the morning, when I get home from work. Lots of pics (including some of my 3 dollar vent screen mod.)


Huge thanks to all the guys who had the patience and knowledge to assist me with this.


Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Dozer, from what I have been told the Shark pods should be sealed. The "me too"(Batwing) should be ported.

Hope this helps,


Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #9
O.K. So here is the rest of the install.

In the first pic you can see where I used some 3M super 33 electrical tape to take up the space where the speaker wire enters the pod.

In the 2nd pic in the upper left corner is where the wire enters the pod. With the tape it becomes a nice snug fit.

The other circle is where I attached the ground wire for the amp. I used a fluke multimeter to make sure that it was a good ground and deemed it to be just as good as running a wire back to the battery or the terminal next to the battery where the other grounds tie into.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
In the first pic is where I got the remote power for the amp. I used a "positap tap it" for the connection.(I'm not sure where else you can get these but Custom Dynamics has a huge assortment of them. I got these when I put my order in for the Plasma Rods)

In the next pic is the B2 all nice and zip tied to the space directly below the Rushmore head unit. I used 3 zip ties just because I figured too many than not enough.It fits perfectly in that space and it doesnt move a bit. Its almost like they made the amp just for that spot.

I decided to use the "Velcro" loops to wrap the wires just in case I need to take the amp out for future tuning or whatever, I just figured it would be easier than zip ties, but you do it however makes you happy.

One other thing, make sure you do your tuning prior to tucking the amp into that space because once its there your not getting to the tuning pots without taking it back out.. (dont ask just trust me)

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #11
First pic shows the BT355 and the EZPass in the spaces where the pods mount. If you have the latest EZPass its more rectangular than square and fits in the space like a glove.

Just as a tease, the last pic shows my 3 dollar vent screens. I figured since I had the fairing off already I would try and see what I could make and I think they turned out OK. If you dont like them screw off its my bike not yours!!!! (Thats a joke BTW for the people who need a humor check, you know who you are lol).

As an aside please excuse the mess in the garage but I havent gotten around to doing my spring cleaning due to the absolutely craptastic weather here in New England lately.

Now I'm off to start working on the Plasma Rods.


Mike
 

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First pic shows the BT355 and the EZPass in the spaces where the pods mount. If you have the latest EZPass its more rectangular than square and fits in the space like a glove.
Please follow up with how the ez pass reads in that location. I tried several different locations on my 13 and could never really get it to read consistently. Curious how that spot will work......
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well first off, contrary to popular opinion, the transponders are NOT speed sensitive. 15mph - 70 mph, makes no difference.

I decided on that location for 2 reasons.

1.Its easily concealed, I dont have to worry about it coming up missing. I further concluded that if it could be read from inside a saddlebag or a glove compartment, it should be able to be read from under the fairing.(I guess we shall at some point prove or disprove the theory).

2.The BT355 was already occupying the other side and I didnt feel like moving it. LOL.

I dont believe location is super critical. We have them on the trucks at work and they are ziptied to the grill. Most people put them at the top of the windshield so there is a couple of feet from when you pass the reader to when you get to the transponder.

I'm not even sure how much orientation matters. I have pulled them from one vehicle and tossed it on the dash of another and never had a problem.

I guess the bottom line is I'll find out the next time I go through a set of tolls, which the way the weather is going might be around august.

Hope this didnt muddy the waters to much,


Mike
 

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First pic shows the BT355 and the EZPass in the spaces where the pods mount. If you have the latest EZPass its more rectangular than square and fits in the space like a glove.

Just as a tease, the last pic shows my 3 dollar vent screens. I figured since I had the fairing off already I would try and see what I could make and I think they turned out OK. If you dont like them screw off its my bike not yours!!!! (Thats a joke BTW for the people who need a humor check, you know who you are lol).

As an aside please excuse the mess in the garage but I havent gotten around to doing my spring cleaning due to the absolutely craptastic weather here in New England lately.

Now I'm off to start working on the Plasma Rods.


Mike
I'm interested in what material you used for the vent grills & where you got them. I'm not spending $60 on klock werks mesh vent screens, ridiculously overpriced!
 

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So I have put this on the other forum as well but since this is Shark specific I wanted it here as well.

I have found out from some audio gurus that the Shark speaker pods should be sealed for best results, so here goes..
Mike, thanks so much for this excellent, detailed write-up. I'm attempting to tackle this myself this weekend, and this really helps. I'm gonna do the initial install of the amp off of speaker-level coming off of the 6.5" GT HU - but as soon as I can verify everything is working properly, I'm taking the bike to my dealership to have them do a flash and turn off the internal power amp on the HU, and make the HU send out line level signals, and also turn on the HPF from the HU and block out any freqs below 45Hz. I'll be referring to your write-up quite a bit this weekend!

BLESSINGS!
Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Mike, thanks so much for this excellent, detailed write-up. I'm attempting to tackle this myself this weekend, and this really helps. I'm gonna do the initial install of the amp off of speaker-level coming off of the 6.5" GT HU - but as soon as I can verify everything is working properly, I'm taking the bike to my dealership to have them do a flash and turn off the internal power amp on the HU, and make the HU send out line level signals, and also turn on the HPF from the HU and block out any freqs below 45Hz. I'll be referring to your write-up quite a bit this weekend!

BLESSINGS!
Sam
Sam, which amp are you using? Also the factory head unit does not have RCA plugs so you are kinda forced to use a LOC or line leveler.

Not sure if you have pulled the fairing yet but as soon as you do it will become pretty evident. From what I'm told you can get away with a cheepy LOC but the one from Biketronic does more than just convert the signal it cleans up almost all of the nastyness coming from the head unit. With the forum discount it will set you back 67 bucks shipped and you dont have to cut the factory wiring.

Good luck with the install and feel free to hit me up if you have any questions.


Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Go to your local Lowe's or Home Depot and go to the gutter area. It's the gutter guard to keep leaves out of the gutter.
Smarty gets the prize!

I paid 2.67 for the shiny metal one and I think the black one that I havent tried yet cost me another 1.99...

All told I probably have an hour in my time getting it cut out and trimmed and it dont look half bad IMO.

I figure if it starts to rust or anything, I still have material left over and I can just cut out new ones. It will take a long time to go through 70 bucks worth of that stuff.

I was going to do a quick write up on it but since Smarty let the cat out of the bag, maybe I'll pass on it.


Mike
 

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Smarty gets the prize!

I paid 2.67 for the shiny metal one and I think the black one that I havent tried yet cost me another 1.99...

All told I probably have an hour in my time getting it cut out and trimmed and it dont look half bad IMO.

I figure if it starts to rust or anything, I still have material left over and I can just cut out new ones. It will take a long time to go through 70 bucks worth of that stuff.

I was going to do a quick write up on it but since Smarty let the cat out of the bag, maybe I'll pass on it.


Mike
Sweet, thanks. I'll swing by my local "Home Desperate" in the next day or so. Thinking about painting the screens red to start a bit of a red & black theme, so no worries about rust. Might look kinda cool.....
 

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Yeah when Smarty showed me his screens I said; chicken wire?

I don't think he caught the humor in that comment.
 
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